Chrysler Project Motor

DavidW2009

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Sep 12, 2009
Messages
272
Re: Chrysler Project Motor

While the reed plates are off, the rod bearing and crank got squirted down with TC-W 2-cycle oil. I pulled the spark plugs and shot some into the cylinders, also.

I then rotated the engine suing a breaker bar and socket on the flywheel retaining nut. I noticed (12) points of slight resistance each revolution of the crank, 30 degrees apart. (Is this normal?)

What is that?

Otherwise, the motor turns easily and smoothly.

It may have to do with the water pump, but I'm not sure.
 

DavidW2009

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
272
Re: Chrysler Project Motor

It runs!

Earlier this week I received the carb parts, gaskets, fuel pump gasket, etc. from Franz's Marine.

I finished the third carb, mounted the reed plates/intake manifold sub-assembly. I used a very thin coat of Permatex Black fuel-proof sealer on the reed and intake gaskets. I did this so if and when I take it apart again, the gaskets won't stick and clean up will be easier.

Installed new Motorcraft plugs.

I set all three carb idle screws to 2 1/3 turns out. This is what they were set at before cleaning.
(Edit: That 2 1/3 proved to be way too rich. While cleaning the carbs I had to raise the float level on all the carbs. Maybe someone backed the screws out to compensate for the low float level?? I now see in the manual it's quite an involved procedure to set the carbs properly. I lightly seated the needle and backed them out to 1 turn. The motor runs better and doesn't load up now.)

Today, the linkages, new hoses and everything else got put back on. The fuel pump got a new diaphram and gaskets. I tested the check valves and they seem to be working fine.

I made a final check of everything and connected the fuel and battery. With a remote starter switch the motor cranked over, had spark, had fuel to the carbs, timing was as it was the last time it ran (1978), but it won't start.

Checked things over, pulled the plugs and found them coated with the oil I had squirted in the cylinders. Cleaned off the plugs and tried again.

It fired right off! Ran smooth and strong, and smoked like crazy (this was expected).

I shut it off, checked for leaks: none. Fired it up again. Runs and idles fine, and sounds strong.

Next, I'm going to build a test tank and run it for 15 minutes or more, then do a de-carb to clean out the crankcase.

After it's determined the engine has reached a steady state and no problems show up, the carbs are going to be synchronised with a flow meter. See attached photo.

Edit: Attached is a photo of the motor with the cleaned up carbs, reeds and fuel pump. The motor is still a mess from the fire. The cover was destroyed and the melting resin and soot got all over the motor. The CD module looks like toast but still works fine for now. Sturdy stuff they built back then.

Next, the lower end will be removed and scrutinised for bearings, seals, etc., new impeller, etc... Once the overall condition is assessed, the clean up and painting will begin, and possibly rework of the ports to increase the hp.
 

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  • 2010 05 Mar Carbs Sync Tool 001b.jpg
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DavidW2009

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
272
Re: Chrysler Project Motor

I ran the motor for about 15 minutes a couple of times today. Did adjustments to the idle screws and let it run to see if any problems would show up.

The smoking is almost a normal amount now. The impeller puts out a strong steady steam of water, and BTW, there's a telltale hole or something on the side of the lower end that shoots out a steady stream of water. I have to find out if that's normal.

The motor seems to run normal and strong. It does not hesitate at all when giving it a little throttle.
 

DavidW2009

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
272
Re: Chrysler Project Motor

Minor update:

The motor cover that came with this motor was burned beyond repair. I bought an 85 HP Force cover, circa 1980's. I could not get the Force cover to drop in place in the rear for the latch to pull it tight.

Looked at it again today and decided it was the front 'L' shaped tab that fits into the slot that was the problem. I bent the tab down a few degrees and the cover went on and latched. A minor problem solved.
 
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