Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

[vernonbean]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

Made some progress today. Got the engine taken off, popped the cap, and cut the transom out. From what I read a lot of people have trouble getting their transoms out. Mine came out in one solid piece. I used a hand axe as a wedge and beat on it with a hammer. That got it out pretty easily. So, now I just have some more cutting and a lot of grinding to do, then put everything back in. I'm pretty much booked through Sunday night, but I have all of next week to work on her. Now if I can just get the kids off my back since their last day of school is tomorrow...

And pics:

Engine pulled and put on a stand. Don't mind the busted down 85 Cutlass Supreme.

From the front.

From the rear.

Transom cut out.

Ladders make a wonderful makeshift stand for the cap.

 

[vernonbean]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

Just wanted to add that my transom really wasn't all that bad. It must have been replaced, because everything else in the rear of the boat was in full rot mode. It was a little wet, but I'm wondering if that was from the boat sitting out in the rain. I haven't had it covered since I bought it. So, I probably could have let the transom stay, but of course it would have ended up rotting sooner or later and led to some more work in a few years. No thanks.

 

[BigBoatinOkie]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

Good call on the transom. If it was wet at all, it would be rotting soon. You got her stripped in a hurry. Nice work.

 

[vernonbean]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

I'm trying to get her done as quickly as possible (without substituting quality). My goal is to be on the river for the 4th of July. We are going camping the last week of this month. I have basically 2 weeks to get her ready. We'll see what happens. I'm trying to move fast because I know I'll run into something that will set me back again (like breaking the tilt motor.... arrrrgh!).

 

[BigBoatinOkie]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

Looks like you're more than capable of getting the work done quickly. I've had to wait on parts alot because I just ordered them when I needed them. A word of advice, figure out what you'll need, and get 'em ordered way before you need them. That way you won't ever come to a stand still because of backorders and long shipping times.

 

[vernonbean]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

That's what I'm trying to do now. I'm torn, though, because I'm not sure how much fiberglass I'm going to need. It's a 16' boat, so I'm not sure exactly how much resin, mat, and cloth I'll need. I am wanting to cover every square inch, even the bottom of the deck. Think 5 gallons of resin will cut it or should I go 10? And how much mat and cloth? Or should I just stick with one or the other? Anyone? Oh, jeez. I also need foam. Gonna do some research this weekend.

 

[BigBoatinOkie]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

You using poly or epoxy resin? Poly is cheaper and will work just fine, but I believe it's pretty nasty smelling stuff and requires you to wear a respirator. Epoxy is more expensive, but is much stronger and has little to no smell and isn't hazardous. I used epoxy resin from U.S. Composites. They have the best prices on the epoxy stuff and foam as well. I really like their products and I know a number of others here on iboats do as well. I think 6-7 gallons is about what it takes to do stringers, deck, and transom job. Most guys just use mat on the deck, but prefer to use biaxial cloth on anything structural. I used biax on the whole transom and the deck/hull joints. It's a bit more expensive, but stronger than other cloths as well. Except for the layer that covers the whole deck, I would suggest using a cloth cloth tape for all the joints. They come in several different widths and it saves a lot of cutting. Biaxial can be bought as a tape as well. It helps to take measurements and draw it out to help you figure how much glass it will take. Anyway, I'm absolutely not a fiberglass guru or anything, but maybe this helps.

U.S. Composites website:
http://www.uscomposites.com/index.html

 

[vernonbean]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

I plan on using poly resin. I want to use mat for as much of the glassing as possible. Is it really imperative to use a cloth on the transom or stringers? I know they are stronger, but isn't the mat going to be strong enough? I've been looking around and us composites seems to be the best deal. I'm going to have to make a choice here soon. I'm trying to dedicate this whole next week to working on her. Hope to start cutting wood before the end of the week. We'll see how well that goes...

 

[BigBoatinOkie]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

I would strongly suggest using something stronger than mat at least on the stringer tabbing. Once everything is tabbed to the hull, then cover everything with mat. The main purpose of stringers is to add rigidity and flexural strength to the hull, so you really need to attach them to the hull with something nice and strong. I would want stronger material on the deck/hull joint and transom/hull joint as well, but you might be okay if you want to you use mat. I wouldn't feel comfortable recommending it though, but it's up to you. Remember the deck, stringers, and transom contribute to the structural integrity of the boat, and mat just aint that strong. I'd read up on some of the other threads and maybe ask the other guys what they think, but I think most folks here will tell you the same thing. I don't want you to spend anymore than you have to, but you might as build it strong.

 

[vernonbean]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

I decided I'd probably be much better off using some cloth on the transom, stringers, and all hull joints. Mayyyybe one layer over the deck. Not sure yet. Gonna place an order with us composites tomorrow. I'm gonna get on with the grinding the hull tomorrow too. I wanted to use this whole week to work on the boat, but weather calls for rain off and on. Guess we'll just have to wait to see how Mother Nature wants to treat me this week.

 

[ltjag101]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

Guess we'll just have to wait to see how Mother Nature wants to treat me this week.

i know the feeling wow you moved fast i am still trying to get my cabin tore out and you are just about ready to start assembling that thing central IL weather stinks this year but my brother and i talked about hiting the river this year i will be in my chris craft though my celebrity is not going to be done for this year i am also building a suprize engine package for the celeb and am finding parts for it now. by the way did you guy see that lighning storm sat night that tornado went about 8 miles northwest of Latham (where i am at) and we didnt even see a drop of rain no wind nothing so we watched it from the feild out behind my cousins house wow what a show we knew there was a funnel in that storm we could see the updraft

 

[vernonbean]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

I'm trying to move as fast as I can, but like we just said... damn weather. I was actually up in Rock Island this past weekend, so I missed out on the storm. It got pretty bad here. I woulda been outside with the camera yelling at the kids to get in the basement lol.

 

[vernonbean]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

Oh... and I got in some grinding today. Got the whole transom ground down. Boy oh boy was there a lot of dust. Now only about 30+ hours of grinding left... fun times.

 

[ltjag101]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

lol i fortunatly dont have a time crunch just want to get the Chris Craft on the water by 7-4-10 and get the celeb done by fall so i can dunk it and take it for 1 quick trip around the lake with the curent powerplant and then yank the ol small block chevy out and try something different

 

[vernonbean]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

Ok, well.... I THOUGHT I got the transom all ground down until I double checked it. Got some more grinding in today (yesterday, now).

Question: Do I have to grind ALL of the glass down to the original hull? My thinking is that since I will not completely reglass every square inch, should I only be grinding the areas where I will be laying new fiberglass. For example: where the seat bases meet the hull, I would only need to grind out a few inches on either side where I will be tabbing in the bases. The area underneath the bases that will not see new fiberglass, well... what is the point of grinding it down?

Question #2: Do I need to grind it all the way down to the roving pattern that I am guessing is the hull itself, or just grind it down enough that it will bond properly? Does this make sense?

I'll probably end up grinding everything down just because I start double checking things before I move on and say "Aww screw it, might as well do this or that" lol.

My daughter is at her grandma's house for a few days so I'm gonna see what I can get done. Praying that this rain misses us this weekend.

USComposites order should be here on Friday. Still can't help laughing at myself because I know I over-ordered by a ridiculous amount. Oh well. Anyone wanna buy mat and foam at a discount when I'm done?

 

[BigBoatinOkie]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

You don't have to grind everything down to the original glass. In the places where you will be laying new glass, just clean it up so you have a nice smooth surface to work with. The new glass will lay down much easier if everything is nice and smooth, but don't worry about the areas that won't get new glass. I thought I bought plenty of glassing supplies on my first order, then I ordered more when I ran out, then I ordered some more when I ran out again. If you ordered a rediculous amount the first time, you might have just enough.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

Hey! Great work so far. Nice move removing the cap to do the work.

One suggestion, and I hope I am not too late, is to NOT put a center support down the middle of the hull. Its a fairly small boat, and using that "bilge" are as storage is really handy. Especially for things like anchors, skies, etc that will mess up the deck and top side of the boat. I left a 2ft opening between the stringers, and doubled up 5/8" ply to make a deck section that is so rigid it doesn't flex even when jumped on. Although I recessed my deck for more headroom for my hard top project, the concept is still sound. Check out the bayliner link in my signature for some pics of the recessed deck.

Anyway, nice work. And its always good to get family involved in the restoration, that way the treat it better when out for a ride.

Regards,

Mark.

 

[jwirwin78]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

Yuo are moving along great. The devil is in the details though. I post mostly finished product milestones, but I certainly feel your pain on the extra grinding, double checking yourself, and occasional overkill. You'll always know you did it right though. You did load up on supplies but like someone mentioned earlier, I've been back for more epoxy twice. I needed two gallons so far, and picking up the 3rd tomorrow. I don't have much left to glass, but I didn't do transom or stringers. luckily mine were solid. Good work so far.

 

[vernonbean]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

Okie: I MAY just have enough then lol. I ordered 10 gallons of poly, 50 yards of mat, and 25 yards of cloth. If that doesn't do it, then I quit.

Mark: I haven't even begun reinstalling anything. Still grinding at this point. I was going to do the same thing as you, as far as leaving an area between the stringers to use as a ski locker.

Jwirwin: Trust me, there have been a few times when I thought "Well, if I just skip this or that, then I'll be done quicker. Of course, I couldn't do it. I have to make sure I get everything right, so that I know she's good.

Well... some more grinding today. Not much more than that. A couple of pics:

My favorite part of grinding: Finding more wood.

Got all that cut out

One side (mostly) ground down.

Hoping the bad weather stays away so I can get some more work done this weekend.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

Just a suggestion: Hose the hull out, drain, dry then go over with a shop vac with a bristle brush end before moving on to reconstruction. Helps keep the dust down, and you are sure the surfaces are clean and free of dust that weakens bonds.

Looks great!