Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

[vernonbean]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

Well, didn't get as much done this weekend as I planned on, but I did get some grinding done. Pretty much all that is left is half of the very front of the bow and the bottom of the hull. Then I'll go over the entire hull for any final touches.

This is what is left of the "major" grinding.

The PO must have obviously hit something and tried patching it up with bondo. What's the best way to repair this? Should I just go over it with new glass or do I need to cut it out a little bit. I fear in cutting anything out, it will be hard to duplicate the curve.

I am also planning on repainting the exterior. I am debating whether I should paint first or wait until I get the deck in. If I paint first, I can easily flip over the hull as it is fairly light without anything in it. I fear if I do this, any flexing will cause the paint to crack. If I wait until I restore the deck, it would be a lot harder to flip the hull and I think I would just tilt it and paint each side separately. Any ideas?

I'm getting excited cuz I feel I'm getting closer.

 

[BigBoatinOkie]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

If you paint first, I don't think the full would flex enough to crack the paint. That being said, as you progress with the restoration, you will be getting in and out of the boat a million times, with possibly grease, resin, and other stuff on your hands and body. If you paint it first, I would definately cover the places where you climb in and and out to avoid scratching up your brand new paint job and getting crap all over it. For example, if you realize you're out of resin, and you climb out to run and mix more resin, you might accidentally get resin on you paint. That's not good. Just food for thought.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

If you paint first, I don't think the full would flex enough to crack the paint. That being said, as you progress with the restoration, you will be getting in and out of the boat a million times, with possibly grease, resin, and other stuff on your hands and body. If you paint it first, I would definately cover the places where you climb in and and out to avoid scratching up your brand new paint job and getting crap all over it. For example, if you realize you're out of resin, and you climb out to run and mix more resin, you might accidentally get resin on you paint. That's not good. Just food for thought.

I agree, the boat will not flex enough to crack the paint. To prevent messing up the paint job, after the paint has cured a week or two, cover with a tarp, then flip back over onto the trailer to finish the work. Tape the tarp up to the gunnel line and continue working. Maybe packing paper or plastic drop cloths can be used instead. I hate to seal off fresh paint, because it really takes a month or more for it to really cure 100%. But be creative, and see what you can come up with to keep crap off the fresh paint.

 

[vernonbean]

Re: Vernonbean's Bayliner Restoration

Well. Finally 100% done on the grinding. There are a few spots that could probably use another pass or two, but they are all spots that will not receive fiberglass and will be covered with foam, so I figure 98.5% should be good enough. Gonna start on the transom tomorrow, then the stringers, then the deck, then all the rest.

I already kind of miss grinding down the fiberglass. Wait a second *slaps self* No I don't! Glad to be done with it. Now for the fun part of rebuilding instead of tearing down. Woohoo!

No new pics. More or less all looks the same, just completely ground down. I should have some pics tomorrow.