arrrrgh ....dont have the time to answer it all...
thinner cloth than 17 oz....means 13 oz.
the 25 oz cloth...(1708) was to match the hull thickness.
we need to design you a new layup schedule with the epoxy only.
if ondarvr is on and sees this he can suggest one for you....mark 42?...jonesg?
ill be back on tonight chris...if no one has helped you ill give you a new schedule.....but just dont use csm ....and you cant use the thicker products on the seterior of the hull or you will have a permanant "bump" there that cannot be sanded out.
if you run into problems ...call me later
Tips, advice, your concerns are welcomed.
Chris
Yes i do have my work cut out for me. I plan on using successive layers of 1708 biaxial cloth and west systems epoxy resins to repair this area.
I will be feathering the edges of this hole from both sides. Soon i will be removing the deck on the inside to access the inward area of the hole.
What would be a good grit on an orbital sander to get this baby started towards the feathering process?
Second what is the finishing cloth that oops had made reference to and what type would be compatible with the epoxy resins and with the usage of 1708 biaxial cloth?
Third, i am planning on placing 3 layers on the inside and then place a structural integration in this area consisting of two triangular pieces of 2" material and glass it all in to the stringer while i am in there.
Would you suggest waiting until those three layers have completely cured or would you wait near the end of the cure out process and integrate the structural members mentioned?
Also, what would be a good release agent to utilize over a piece of plywood to prevent the cloth from sagging downwards through this hole during the layup process?
Thanks guys, Chris
How many layers would one recommend of the 1708 biaxial cloth to be used to accomplish approximately 5/16" thickness? The successive layers need to be approximately 1-2" larger than each prior patch such that every layer overhangs the prior layer by 1-2", correct?
Could i make this patch on a table first instead of epoxing each layer on the boat one at a time? In other words could i make this large patch consisting of successive layers on a table and then after setup move it to area to be repaired on my boat. IF doing it in this manner should i compress the layers tightly while setting up by using some sort of weight on top of the layers to prevent air pockets within the layers or would that be a bad idea?
Thanks, Chris
Hello again Truefire..
I still stand on using VE resin.. Your West sytem Is going to drain out m8..
Yes.. you can wet out and bubble roll your " 5 layers of patch 1708 glass" with epoxy or whatever .. Its actually a good idea in some cases.
Im just telling ya..your going to drain your epoxy out of the glass no matter what.
Trust me.. Ive done small 6"x6" ( boss says WestS ) .. even put peelyply over it..and It still drains out ! .. This is with heat lamps preheat and postcure ( Which you need to do with epoxy if you have dark finish areas ).
Just use VE .. layup your repair on the table ( pre-wet out your lam area .. let start to cure ) then slap your Band-aid 1708 on there..roll out as needed..
Im tellin ya guys.. Dont Use epoxy for serious lams .. It will not work the way your thinking..
Just MO anyway...
YD.
PS. please wear proper gear.