Buying a boat

[hunter0527]

Im sure its been covered a million times, but I didnt seem to find what Im looking for. When buying a used boat, what are things to look for? I know I want a bow rider with an inboard motor. After that??? How many hours are too many for a boat? Any other advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Buying a boat

What size and approximate age vessels (I guess price-range would be more appropriate) are we talking about?

 

[hunter0527]

Re: Buying a boat

well I am thinking I would like a 18 - 20 ft. age, not sure. Obviously the newer the better. i am seeing that people are asking almost 3k more for their boat than what they book for on nada. Is that usually the case? I have been seeing some mid 90's bayliners and asking price averages about $6k. I looked up the book and most are right around $3k book. Price range would be possibly be around $5K - $7K give or take depending on the boat.

 

[Purecarnagge]

Re: Buying a boat

I've seen alot of this as well. No idea why they do it.

 

[Fordiesel69]

Re: Buying a boat

Floor, stringers, and transom rot. Along with engine health. Those are what you need to check first and foremost. All the rest is common sense.

Bow riders will most likly be rotted if over 10 yrs old due to the type of owners they attract. If you can find a well cared for boat, you will be fine.

 

[Steve Mahler]

Re: Buying a boat

Spend some time reading here, lots and lots to read, but the bottom line is that condition (and the care that led to it) is more important than brand or style. I would suggest having a mechanic check the boat over, at a minimum. Here are a few other things to avoid in the type of boat you mention:

1) Anything with an OMC, OMC Cobra, Yamaha, or Merc 470/485 3.7L 4 cyl engine, or Bayliner/Maxum Force L Drive.
2) If you have serious watersports in mind, try to avoid the Merc 3.0 engine - perfectly reliable, but the V6 boats have more power, and smoother feel.
3) Any boat that claims a new floor, or a soft floor, or needing and outdrive work.
4) Any boat that needs upholstry work, as it is more expensive than you might think. Also, a boat completely ripped up has not been covered, leading to other problems.
5) A merc 90 or 120 jet boat (you didnt mention this, but they are really unreliable and expensive to fix).

there will be folks who will argue that OMCs can be great, etc but my first bullet includes the 'generally accepted' undesireable power choices. In this class of boat it is unusual to find an hour meter, but some will have it. If someone cant give you the specifics over phone or internet to rule out any of my suggestions above, dont bother with the trip to see it. For your budget, you CAN find a trailer queen runabout that has been indoors most of it's life.

Good luck and have fun!

 

[AlmostFamous]

Re: Buying a boat

Hi,

Having just been through this exercise earlier this year and ending up with IMO an excellent 89 Celebrity for $3500. Here's what I've learned.

Toss NADA, KBB, etc out the window. They are way off. Use the market to determine what boats are going for and let the boat's condition be your guide.

Ask where the boat has been stored. Unless it has been stored inside or under a really good cover most of it's life you can expect water damage. Like rotted stringers, transom and a soft floor. If the interior is blown out OR recently redone really check out the floor for soft spots. If you find soft spots I would be prepared to walk.

IMO, don't buy a boat with an OMC. Parts are not too bad to get, but it's very difficult to find a shop that will work on them, even former OMC dealers don't like to service them. Mercruiser is the way to go part and service are every where, maybe a late model volvo...maybe...

Ask about maintenance, the seller should go fairly in depth in this area it terms what has been replaced and when. If they are elusive or claim to never had to replace anything be careful!! Highly unlikely on a 10+ year old boat. Look for things like, bellows, gimbal bearing, impeller replacement.

Lastly, look at a LOT of boats. It really gives you a good idea of what's a good deal and what is not. In my experience something better almost always comes along.

EDIT: Post above is also excellent info!!

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Buying a boat

Can't really add much to the all the excellent info provided above. Good luck in your search and do not hesitate to ask us for our opinions on any you're considering.

 

[Beefer]

Re: Buying a boat

well I am thinking I would like a 18 - 20 ft. age, not sure. Obviously the newer the better. i am seeing that people are asking almost 3k more for their boat than what they book for on nada. Is that usually the case? I have been seeing some mid 90's bayliners and asking price averages about $6k. I looked up the book and most are right around $3k book. Price range would be possibly be around $5K - $7K give or take depending on the boat.

Hi, and welcome (back) to the world of boating....

"The newer the better" can be deceptive. Maintenance is much more important than age on a boat. I, like others, have seen a lot of newer garbage out there from lack of proper maintenance. Most people keep the receipts of what they spend on boats, so they should be able to show maintenance records. DIY's will usually keep the receipts and records of when things were done.

I think there's a couple of reasons NADA is always lower then what people are selling them for, and these are only guesses, but;

a) NADA (I believe) is based on State sales records, so in states where tax is paid on the selling price of a boat, the numbers may be, ummm... not so truthful

b) Optional equipment/additional equipment - I just bought a boat for $3500, that booked out (before going to see it) at like $1700-2000. After seeing it, and what equipment it had, etc., it booked at $3800.

c) Time of year, location, mood, phases of the moon, all affect asking/selling prices

d) Emotional attachment - 'My son caught his first crappie on this boat, so it's got to be worth tons more!' or 'I love this boat sooooo much' etc...

e) Bank notes - They need to pay it off, otherwise, you don't get a title with it

I'm sure there are a million more reasons, but those are the predominant reasons in my mind.

To your original questions, if you are unfamiliar with boats, once you decide on the type/style you want, have either a marine mechanic ($) or a marine surveyor ($$) go with you. It can save you tons.

If you are somewhat familiar, you want to crawl all over the boat. Literally. Spend at least an hour checking everything you can see, touch, and access for proper condition and proper operation. Check for hull damage, rot damage (transom, floors, etc). If a trailer is included, I can't help you there, as I haven't a clue about them, I keep mine in the water. Of course, run the engine. Watch for the cooling water discharge. a steady stream is what you want. Check the condition of the prop. In my opinion, the prop should not be bent or chipped. We hit things, it happens, but (IMHO), a bad prop is a sure sign of neglect and cheapness.

The best thing I can tell you is; don't fall in love with it until you've negotiated your best price...
God luck!

 

[hunter0527]

Re: Buying a boat

Thank you all so very much with the great help and response you have all provided. I will keep all this in mind and im sure will read a million times before buying. I will also keep you posted on any boats that might be of interest. Thanks again to all!

 

[JZammetti]

Re: Buying a boat

Bow riders will most likly be rotted if over 10 yrs old due to the type of owners they attract.

Why is that?

 

[ziggy]

Re: Buying a boat

i'll add...
don't believe anything the seller says. they want to sell a boat. they have motivation to lie. check everything out yourself or by a third party.

never buy a boat w/o a sea trial.

 

[superbenk]

Re: Buying a boat

Floor, stringers, and transom rot. Along with engine health. Those are what you need to check first and foremost. All the rest is common sense.

Bow riders will most likly be rotted if over 10 yrs old due to the type of owners they attract. If you can find a well cared for boat, you will be fine.

Why is that?

Because they're often used for water sports (wet people coming into the boat constantly dripping on the floors so the floors never dry out enough. Another reason I can imagine is that they get more water coming into the boat over the bow than a cuddy/closed bow. Bottom line, more water inside the boat more often.

 

[45Auto]

Re: Buying a boat

Some good posts above on what to look for.

The most important thing is to MAKE SURE YOU GET THE CORRECT PAPERWORK ON THE BOAT AND THE TRAILER!

The greatest deal in perfect shape might be pretty much useless to you if all you can get is a bill of sale. Give me $6000, I'll write you up a bill of sale for the USS Enterprise. Doesn't mean you own it.

Different states require different documentation, some notarized, some not. Some states only require a bill of sale. Find out what's required in your state and make sure you get that from the previous owner. Otherwise all you'll have is a bureaucratic nightmare and a boat you can't use.

The cheaper lines of boats (bowriders, cuddies, and cruisers) use a wooden floor which is rot-prone as stated above. The better boats use what is sometimes called "hull-in-hull" construction, where the floor is a fiberglass shell just like the outside of the boat. Do your research before you buy.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Buying a boat

Well I can tell you that in PA it could not be easier to register a boat even with no paperwork. The trailer though.......not easy with no paperwork.

 

[triplehooked]

Re: Buying a boat

1) Anything with an OMC, OMC Cobra, Yamaha, or Merc 470/485 3.7L 4 cyl engine, or Bayliner/Maxum Force L Drive.
2) If you have serious watersports in mind, try to avoid the Merc 3.0 engine - perfectly reliable, but the V6 boats have more power, and smoother feel.

Good luck and have fun!

So you have ruled out OMC, Cobra, Yamaha? (do you mean Yamaha eng. or out drives?) the Merc 470/485 with a 3.7L 4 cyl, and of course the dreaded L-drive..

What out-drive does that leave? Just a Merc and maybe newer Volvo's? I'll assume the 5.0's and 5.7's are decent just as they are in auto's, and the Merc 3.0 is ok for cruising and maybe some tubing?

The only reason I'm being so specific is due to me breaking all of the above rules this past winter. Traded my truck for a boat unseen from out of state. Did not hear it run, went on the owner's honesty...wrong! It was a nice looking boat, a 2070 Bayliner Capri with....you guessed it an L-drive...... I had it running this spring only to find the stator and trigger shot. I just sold it for $1400, which I thought wasn't too bad considering. I still lost my a#% by almost half, but live and learn. I knew nothing of boats and made a promise to the wife and kids that we will buy one next spring and I will be better informed. So....as stated above, I'm also looking for an 18-20' bowrider.... So check the floor for soft spots, look for proper storage and maintenance records...got it. But what would be a solid eng./outdrive combo to look for to begin with?

As always,
Thanks for all of your suggestions

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Buying a boat

Yep. Merc or Volvo for stern drives. Anything but Chrysler/Force for outboards.

(Yamaha VERY briefly made stern drives which is why you don't want one. Their outboards are great.)

 

[Howard Sterndrive]

Re: Buying a boat

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0071351507/marinemechanicco

 

[hunter0527]

Re: Buying a boat

this may be a stupid question but... when a boat is rated for, lets say, 8 persons or X pounds.... are we talking adults or adults and kids. for instance, if you have a back bench seat 3 adults can sit comfortably, along with 3 in the bow and one in a seat and a driver. However, what if you would do the same set up with 4 kids on the bench seat, they would still be comfortable and you would still be under the weight. Is that legal? So I guess the question when it says 8 persons or pounds, is it both, one or the other, or what? Thanks guys!

 

[superbenk]

Re: Buying a boat

Weight trumps # of people. The # of people is an estimate based on an average weight/person. Some people are way less than the average (kids), some are way more I believe the # of people is based on adults of the average weight.