'82 Grady White I/O Electrical/Engine problem.

[Bt Doctur]

jumping the 2 larger studs and the motor spins means the connections are still ok. the smaller studs will have a small yellow/red wire and a black wire.

 

[Bt Doctur]

.......................................

 

[LX Kid]

Yes. There is no confusion of the starter relay wiring. Until I can get help, to turn the key to the start position, in order to see if I'm getting a voltage from the switch will prove/disprove whether the relay is good or not. Pretty sure the starter relay is bad and want to verify I'm getting voltage from the switch to the relay.

 

[LX Kid]

The engine harness is fed by the large battery cables and a set of wires running from the engine to the control box and then to the instruments and ignition switch.

What is this "control box" that your speaking of? Is that something that exists on newer models? If my '82 has a control box, I'm not aware of it.

 

[FreeBeeTony]

Definitely measure the voltage at the relay. I had a bad relay but it had ~8V going to it when I used the switch. Was not enough to operate it, if I jumped it directly to 12V it would work. The impedance of the relay was pulling the voltage down. I replaced it and it worked fine. Think I went OEM.

 

[Bt Doctur]

where your control cables connect and where the neutral safety switch is to prevent starting in gear ,see post 19

 

[LX Kid]

Spent some time today replacing and cleaning all the connections and replacing connectors in the engine compartment. I also replaced the starter relay an am curious why it also does not "click" when I put 12v to the "S" terminal with the "I" going to ground. "My" way of thinking is that it should click or make some kind of noise that it's energizing. Tomorrow I'll run a ground wire from the relay mounting bracket to the engine ground and see if that helps. I found, on my ignition switch, was a ground wire on with the two purple wires which was causing the fuse under the gauge panel to blow. Removed the wire and now the gauge lights work and the fuse doesn't blow. Cleaned and replaced connectors on the neutral safety switch and checked with meter to ensure it was working properly. Still can't find out why I'm not getting 12v on the yellow/red wire connection on the starter relay coming from the ignition switch.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Cleaned and replaced connectors on the neutral safety switch

(did you disassemble the shift box to get to the switch)

and checked with meter to ensure it was working properly.

(should show continuity in Neutral and open in gear)

Still can't find out why I'm not getting 12v on the yellow/red wire connection on the starter relay coming from the ignition switch.

you need 12v on the "S" terminal when turned to "start" thru the shift box to the yellow w red stripe in the wiring harness back to the engine.

 

[LX Kid]

Cleaned and replaced connectors on the neutral safety switch
(did you disassemble the shift box to get to the switch)
and checked with meter to ensure it was working properly.
(should show continuity in Neutral and open in gear)
Still can't find out why I'm not getting 12v on the yellow/red wire connection on the starter relay coming from the ignition switch.
you need 12v on the "S" terminal when turned to "start" thru the shift box to the yellow w red stripe in the wiring harness back to the engine.

Maybe I'm confusing the "shift interrupter switch" as the "neutral safety switch" which is in the back of the engine on the shifter cable. I now thinking the "neutral safety switch" is actually inside the throttle housing on the helm! I finally found my Climbers Mercrusier Manual and seeing things in a different way! Hmm I wonder! LoL

 

[Bt Doctur]

do yourself a favor, google mercruiser horizon manual and click the send link,

 

[LX Kid]

No Title

Removed the neutral safety switch and found that it was fouling with old hard caked grease. Cleaned it up with Contact Cleaner/Lube and functions fine now after soldering and heat shrinking terminals. Installed new starter relay and found it had to be grounded on the mounting bracket in order to function. She turns over now but don't want it to start until I test the 3 year old gasoline.

 

[Bt Doctur]

post should say click the second link
sounds like an automotive unit with a grounded base and not a marine unit with an isolated base

 

[LX Kid]

post should say click the second link
sounds like an automotive unit with a grounded base and not a marine unit with an isolated base

Yes it was an automotive so I could keep working and get-r-done. The old one was also an auto relay and lasted several years.

 

[dingbat]

Yes it was an automotive so I could keep working and get-r-done. The old one was also an auto relay and lasted several years.

Has nothing to do with longevity of the part. It's a safety issue.

Marine parts are explosion proof. Automotive parts are not. One spark off the starter brushes or the relay at the wrong time and Kaboom......

 

[LX Kid]

Put water to the outdrive, primed carb, turned fuel on from 3 year old tank of gas and she started up. Ran it for for couple of minutes waiting for a sign of water coming out of exhaust. Nope, no water. Turned it off and removed thermostat housing, with gutted thermostat, to see if water was getting up there. It had "some" water up there but not what there should be. Left it open and went back to helm to try starting again "and no darn power" once again. Wanted to see if the engine water pump was pumping! Being I'm using raw sea water cooling, and sitting for three years , it may have rusted the impellers off the engine pump. I have brand new exhaust risers and so I know they are not plugged up. This electrical problem really has me baffled.

 

[Bt Doctur]

nothing since post 1 mentions replacing the impeller in the drive. I would remove the drive, insert a water hose into the water inlet hole to see if water will circulate with the engine off. It should . Doubtful the cast vanes would disolve away or rust away. the "pump" on the engine only circulates the water , it does not pump it.
The impeller in the drive supplies the motor with water.
No power as in no crank or crank, no run?

 

[LX Kid]

nothing since post 1 mentions replacing the impeller in the drive. I would remove the drive, insert a water hose into the water inlet hole to see if water will circulate with the engine off. It should . Doubtful the cast vanes would disolve away or rust away. the "pump" on the engine only circulates the water , it does not pump it.
The impeller in the drive supplies the motor with water.
No power as in no crank or crank, no run?

See post #8. New impeller and housing. No power as in no crank & no start the second time as indicated in post #35. Replacing the outdrive was what has held me up from working on the boat for at least the past year. Finally found someone to give me a hand at lifting it back onto the boat. I tried it last Nov of 2014, by myself, and destroyed the upper seal so I just gave up until now.

 

[Bt Doctur]

go to the 50A circuit breaker and see if you have power to there.

 

[LX Kid]

go to the 50A circuit breaker and see if you have power to there.

Yes there is voltage there. I started looking under the gauge panel and discovered the orange wire on the amp meter was placed on the wrong terminal. After fiddling with wires under the gauge panel everything began to work. I started the engine several times and then for no apparent reason I had no voltage "once again" on the positive terminal at the back of the amp meter. No power means no crank & no start! This ghost voltage has just gotta stop spooking me. LoL

 

[LX Kid]

Spent today re-wiring the gauge panel. Don't know if anyone can tell from the picture but was wondering if anything sticks out as a problem to you. The engine starts but the Volt Meter, (no amp meter installed), stays on all the time unless I turn the master battery switch off. Now my "ghost" voltage will energize all the gauges when I turn on the Nav lights switch. I'm kinda at a loss right now. I really hate to think about re=-wiring my switch panel cause it was a nightmare when I did it years ago! All the switches work including the switch indicator lights. I don't see how the ignition switch will control the gauge panel when ignition switch is turned on! All my heavy gauge B+, the red and orange cables, are attached to the B+ side of the Voltage Meter which includes B+ gong down to the switch.

Side note: Trim position meter is not hooked up. Only the internal light. Problems with electrics in outdrive.