White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

[MGallik]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

Yep, that looks terminal. If it was mine, I'd oil up the engine hoist. Thats not sludge, it's foam, and fresh......

 

[jlinder]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

Bondo,<br /><br />I looked at the photos but with compression and resolution I could not identify what you see as cracks. But it sounds like you are very familiar with these and can tell from experience.<br /><br />KrisHall - when you get a chance to check will you let us all know? It should be easy to feel for the cracks.<br /><br />Feedback is helpful for all of us who want to learn.

 

[jlinder]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

Bondo,<br /><br />I looked at the photos but with compression and resolution I could not identify what you see as cracks. But it sounds like you are very familiar with these and can tell from experience.<br /><br />KrisHall - when you get a chance to check will you let us all know? It should be easy to feel for the cracks.<br /><br />Feedback is helpful for all of us who want to learn.

 

[KrisHall]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

Hi all,<br /><br />Alot of info here, more than I expected this post would muster.<br /><br />Circular cracks - It's 4am and 37F outside right now so I will go out and pull a very close inspection on the manafolds later today. I worked as a heavy jet overhaul and repair mechanic for a number of years. If there are external cracks I will find them. If all else fails I can magnetize them and dust with iron filings. Iron filings will stand on end on a crack. There is also stuff called crack penetrant (dye) that will stay in a crack when washed off the surface. ATS or Aircraft Spruce and Specialty might have this in aerosol. <br /><br />One circular mark I see on the manafolds can be ruled out. It's near the OMC marking and is a factory mold stamp common to alot of auto parts indicating the month and year of manufacture of the piece.<br /><br />Assuming the manafolds are cracked, I think I saw a set of aftermarket manafolds on dougrussel as mentioned. Key here would be whether the existing rubber connectors would match up. and whether or not I could implement the below idea cheaper.<br /><br />A friend of mine here locally has suggested that if the manafolds are bad to gut the manafolds, re-route the coolant lines and install a closed radiator system. There is enough room on the port side of the engine compartment to do this. I like the idea, but also see problems with it due to the heat generated by a set of headers...That kind of heat mixed with fiberglass does not mix. I think he has seen a few "Lake Tahoe" style speed boats with teak transoms and stainless shielding set up this way. This is just an old cuddy cruiser used for puttering around.<br /><br />Aside from the heat problem on the transom, again I am not marine savy. I do know that this system has two water pumps...One typical to all engines, and a second down on the outdrive. Does the second pump merely act to insure the engine pump primes itself? -or- does it have a more clandestine purpose involved with cooling the outdrive which would need to be known???<br /><br />I've got an oil evac pump on order from Overtons...Should be here in about a week.

 

[Lou C]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

The pump in the outdrive (impeller) sucks up seawater and it is pumped to the thermo housing, where some is sent to the manifolds to cool them, and the rest is circulated throughout the engine by the pump on the front of the motor.For these OMCs with the one piece manifolds, there was no after market alternative until recently, the ones doug russell sells are the OE ones, which are hard to get. It is possbile to convert to the more common 2 piece style used on the later OMCs and Volvos. I don't think I'd try a thru the transom (that is what your are saying) too many unknowns and a lot of work (noisy too!). For now you can try running it after changing the oil (you will have to warm up the motor just to get the oil pump to suck out the oil) and see what happens. But as others said, that is more than condensation, probably a freeze damaged engine.

 

[Bondo]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

A friend of mine here locally has suggested that if the manafolds are bad to gut the manafolds, re-route the coolant lines and install a closed radiator system. There is enough room on the port side of the engine compartment to do this. I like the idea, but also see problems with it due to the heat generated by a set of headers...That kind of heat mixed with fiberglass does not mix. I think he has seen a few "Lake Tahoe" style speed boats with teak transoms and stainless shielding set up this way. This is just an old cuddy cruiser used for puttering around.

You're Kidding............. Right........<br /><br />You're Surrounded by Water.........<br />Why on earth would you want to install a coolant to Air Radiator(Heat Exchanged in Marine terms) ????<br />How are you going to get Anywhere Near the amount of Air Flow needed to make it Work ????????<br />It Ain't Never Going to Happen......<br /><br />Even If you run the Exhaust out the Transom,<br />You Still Need Water Cooled Manifolds......<br /><br />BTW, You're Not going to need any Crack Finders............<br />It's going to be Painfully Obvious.........

 

[rodbolt]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

hello<br /> before an engine teardown try pressure testing the block. its not difficult just takes some fittings a pressure tester and time. if the block was cracked you will see a massive rise of the oil level. but like bondo said they were bad about cracking along the lifter galley.<br /> the manifolds will have to be pulled for inspection. no other way. external cracks dont matter. but like DonS and bondo says its way past the condensation stage.<br /> if it froze with fresh water in it there is a good chance its a junker. but I would pressure test the block assy first.

 

[KrisHall]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

I checked the manafolds today, no external cracks found by sight or touch.<br /><br />However, I took the drain plugs out of both of them and no laden water was in them...That water had to go somewhere.

 

[16Pilot]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

Kris, I went through this last summer I bought the boat knowing it was bad. When I took the engine apart I found the HOLES(not cracks) I am talking 2 and 3 inch hole in the oil galley. Trust me it is no fun trying to beat around the bush with it. Just do it right now and you will not have any questions later. I know this probably does not help but I have been there. Lesson learned. I have a 1990 4.3. If I can find the pics of the holes in the galley I will post them. Sorry but I think Rod and Don are right on.

 

[16Pilot]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

Never mind, I cant figure out how to post pics, it keeps asking for a URL

 

[Don S]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

16p<br />Your picture needs to be on the web someplace, then you just put your cursor on the picture you want to post and RIGHT click your mouse. Then RIGHT click the picture and choose properties from the menu, the URL for the picture is shown in the next screen. On pics with long URL's you may have to scroll down on the url link to get it all. Then just copy and paste the complete URL into the image link box and it will automatically put it into the message block. <br />Easy huh

 

[KrisHall]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

Trust me it is no fun trying to beat around the bush with it. Just do it right now and you will not have any questions later.

Do what now? Tear it down?

 

[Don S]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

Originally posted by rodbolt:<br /> hello<br /> before an engine teardown try pressure testing the block. its not difficult just takes some fittings a pressure tester and time. if the block was cracked you will see a massive rise of the oil level. but like bondo said they were bad about cracking along the lifter galley.<br /> the manifolds will have to be pulled for inspection. no other way. external cracks dont matter. but like DonS and bondo says its way past the condensation stage.<br /> if it froze with fresh water in it there is a good chance its a junker. but I would pressure test the block assy first.

If the pressure test fails, take it appart and find out what failed. Sitting here typing on a keyboard won't find the problem.

 

[MGallik]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

Originally posted by KrisHall:<br />

Trust me it is no fun trying to beat around the bush with it. Just do it right now and you will not have any questions later.

Do what now? Tear it down?

Pull the intake and take a look.

 

[lakelivin]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

Originally posted by KrisHall:<br /> I checked the manafolds today, no external cracks found by sight or touch.<br /><br />However, I took the drain plugs out of both of them and no laden water was in them...That water had to go somewhere.

Did you ream out the holes with a piece of wire or something while the drain plugs were off? They can get blocked pretty easily with scale and corrosion. I learned this the hard way years ago when I cracked a manifold; it was blocked & didn't drain. Now I keep a short piece of wire in the glovebox so I can ream out the holes any time I drain.

 

[KrisHall]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

Hey Guys,

I'm back from the "bilge." It took a while to crawl back out (smiles).

The boat has been sitting dormant with nothing done until last week. I finally got the extra time and took the intake off the engine...both left and right sides of the block are cracked just above the lifters. Cracks meander horizontally.

Once I found the cracks I proceded to yank the manafolds and prepare it for a hoist...

Long story short I yanked the manafolds and they look okay. All the valves seen from the exaust ports look pristine although the starboard/right center exaust valve has some rust stains in spots.

I've got the engine out, and it is patiently sitting under the huge oak tree awaiting it's demise.

I figure the heads may be okay but I do NOT want to risk it.

I figure I need a long block but have run into problems there too...Ya see, this setup was/is a 2 barrel carb OMC... and the throttle and shifter brackets require a 12 bolt intake...The only long blocks I can find dipict 8 bolt intakes.

Is there a difference between the heads with 8 bolt intakes and 12 bolt intakes? Or do the 8 bolt intakes merely cover up the 4 bolts in the middle?

 

[bruceb58]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

The new long blocks you are looking at have Vortec heads.

You just need to find a new intake manifold or buy a short block and rebuild your current heads if they aren't cracked.

 

[KrisHall]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

So the 12 bolt intake will not "retrofit" onto the vortec heads? In other words the 4 center intake holes are not only gone from the 8 bolt intake...but also from the heads themselves?

 

[bruceb58]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

Newer blocks also require the use of an electric fuel pump.


Here is a Vortec long block. It has the counterbalance shaft which would also need an updated intake manifold.

 

[KrisHall]

Re: White Sludge 4.3 OMC 1988

Okay, the center holes are missing from the heads as well.