one question

[TIMVS]

First off it's a merc. I believe 230. The engine starts fine cold. If I let it run, whether it be two minutes or twenty minutes when I go to restart, it will turn over one time at the most and act is if the battery is dead. New battery, clean connections, any suggestions?

 

[Laddies]

Re: one question

Put a voltmeter on the batt if the starter draws it down to 10 volts then your trying to crank the engine you probaly have a bad starter it sounds like it needs bushings

 

[f_inscreenname]

Re: one question

Have you messed with the timing at all? If the distributor is to advanced (or retarded, I forget which one) It will act like that. When the motor is cold it will turn right over. When hot it will act like a dead battery.

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: one question

Just to clarify - cranks o/k when cold, won't crank when hot, let it cool off and it cranks o/k again?<br /><br />Timing issue, bad battery earth (ground) connection (I know, you cleaned them, pull um off again and wire brush the the batt post and engine connection) or starter motor. My money's on the earth.<br /><br />Aldo

 

[TIMVS]

Re: one question

Please explain "earth ground" As I stated in my question, it doesn't matter whether it runs for two minutes, which is not enough time for it to get hot, or twenty minutes which is enough time for it to get hot, upon restart it will turn over one time at the most (one piston, down, up) after that when I turn the key the starter will engage but not turn the engine over. The starter does not clickety-click, it simply engages the fly wheel, but will not turn over the engine. I appreciate any suggestions or help.

 

[TIMVS]

Re: one question

What is the timing to be set at. Haven't changed it, but will get the old light out and check it to make sure. Once again thanks to all.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: one question

Check and clean the cable connections at both ends, not just the battery. Replace the wing nuts with nuts and an internal or external tooth lockwasher. If that fails to fix the problem, when it fails to start, jump the the starter solenoid. If it now spins the engine, you have a hot solenoid problem. If it still fails to start, it likely a starter that needs a rebuild. Bushings and brushes.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: one question

Oops -- I was still in the outboard mode. Concept still applies regarding cables. This sounds like a typical heat soak problem on the starter solenoid. Heat from the manifold gets the solenoid hot so it won't engage. A slave solenoid has been added in some intances to help this situation. You might also try and insulate the the starter from the manifold with a home-brew heat shield.

 

[navigator336]

Re: one question

I agree with Dunaruna. It sounds like a bad ground cable. It could also be a dirty commutator in the starter motor.

 

[navigator336]

Re: one question

I agree with Dunaruna. It sounds like a bad ground cable. It could also be a dirty commutator in the starter motor.

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: one question

Thanks nav, agreed with me twice, I'm honored .<br /><br />TVS, in Aussie land we call it an 'earth', in the U.S you call it a 'ground'. I couldn't decide what to call it so I typed both - sorry.<br /><br />Anyway, it's the negative battery lead that I am referring to, even a clean terminal can have a bad connection. Wire brushing down to bare metal is the best way to get a resistance free connection. It's a common problem in boats.<br /><br />Aldo

 

[Bondo]

Re: one question

Anyway, it's the negative battery lead that I am referring to, even a clean terminal can have a bad connection. Wire brushing down to bare metal is the best way to get a resistance free connection. It's a common problem in boats.<br />

Ayuh,..........<br />And,.. Don't forget the Other End of that same Wire,.. Where it bolts to the block........

 

[trog100]

Re: one question

it dosnt make any sense at all to me.. new battery clean connections.. two minutes or twenty minutes..<br /><br />two minutes is still a cold engine.. how long does it have to stand before it will start..???<br /><br />i would be tempted to remove the plugs and spin it over a few times (more than a few times) and see if the starter keeps going for some time as it should.. or as an alternative remove the main HT lead and put some real load on the starter.. solenoid.. battery and cables for a while..<br /><br />this should remove the "mystery" two minute engine run being the cause of the problem out of the equation..<br /><br />trog100

 

[Chris1956]

Re: one question

If is is not a bad ground, I think the timing is too advanced. Does the motor have a centrifical advance in the distributor? If so, are the weights returning to static position, or do they stick in the advance mode.

 

[trog100]

Re: one question

its either a "mechanical" thing chris or an "electrical" thing.. my first post was about trying to seperate the two.. does the engine actually fireing up cause the problem or is it purely coincidental..<br /><br />what u suggest is possible.. sticky bob weights taking a while to return to the retard position could cause such a problem.. so could water entering a cylinder.. either are not at the top of my possibilites thow..<br /><br />trog100

 

[Capt.Skid]

Re: one question

Believe it or not... Add an additonal ground wire to the starter. Make sure where you attach it<br />is clean and rust free.. I once had a starter that lost its ground even though it was bolted tightly to the engine block. Use at least 8ga. wire for the new ground. You didnt say if you have replaced the battery. Some cases after an engine has been started it wont restart because of a dead cell or 2 in the battery. Usually wont show up on a cold one. Good luck. If its not the ground or the battery, replace the starter.<br />Capt.Skid

 

[steve n carol]

Re: one question

From one of my experiences. An Item that wasn't mentioned.<br /><br />After experiencing the same problems, I replaced the battery, as it was 6 years old, and wouldn't hold a charge. worked good for 2 days. Then the symptoms re-appeared, (same as TIMVS). After checking the timing, it was fine, cleaning all connections...same problem. Must be the starter or solinod. Since the solinoid was cheaper, I repalced that...Nope, must be a defective battery. Again, not the problem....AHHH gotta be the starter. After replacing the starter it worked perfect...2 times. The only thing left were the battery cables. Yes, that was the source of the problems!!! I sliced the insulation off the old cables, as this was when I was 18 and scrap copper was King. Only to find that the corrosion extended 80% on the Ground cable and 40% on the positive!!! believe it!!!<br />Now, I have never experienced this again, good. I am not in the knowledge of electrical items, but I do suppose that one can test for resistance of these cables w/o stripping the insulation off...sl

 

[jamesr1]

Re: one question

I have seen this many times. The starter is bad. You can and should troubleshoot all possibilties, but in the end this is normally a bad starter.

 

[Chris1956]

Re: one question

Steve, It would be hard to detect corroded copper battery cables with an ohn meter, since one good strand will give a low resistance reading. The best test is to measure the voltage at the starter, while it is cranking. Good voltage should be 8.5Volts of more.

 

[deputydawg]

Re: one question

Starter, battery connections (probably not), or timing. <br />The timing is probably not the problem unless you've advanced it. Timing doesn't get off unless it is moved manually or the holddown is loose.<br />Could be starter.<br />Another idea, pull all the plugs when it is not starting. It is a small possibility that you are getting water in one cylinder filling enough to lock up. Check this right away before you bend a rod trying to start it when it is locked.