Shift cable bellows position?

Condor1970

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 9, 2014
Messages
195
I changed out my shift cable today and did a couple things I just wanted to verify with y'all to make sure I didn't do anything wrong.

1. I noticed the original position of the bellows left the small end of it an inch or two aft of the housing, and it was crimped in place with a metal crimp around it. The small part of the bellows was not seated all the way against the bell housing, because it just isn't that long to reach. When I installed the cable housing, I used Teflon tape on the brass fitting, as I assume this is what keeps the water out of the bell housing, correct?

2. Also, the little metal crimp used on the cable bellows was very rusted, so I replaced it with a stainless mini-hose clamp like the big one on the front end of the bellows. I turned the wheel all the way left, and clamped it as far to the rear towards the bell housing as it would go without excessively stretching. I assume this is also something most people do, instead of trying to purchase or re-use an old rusty metal crimp, correct?


The cable fed through a bit stiff at first, because the end is straight steel, but I found that straightening the cable housing in front of the transom, feeding it a little at a time did the job, without having to move back and forth, since that would grind away the inside of the plastic liner. Outside of that, I can see why everyone says replace the shift cable, if the one you have is old. This new cable slides like butter in comparison.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,079
I changed out my shift cable today and did a couple things I just wanted to verify with y'all to make sure I didn't do anything wrong.

1. I noticed the original position of the bellows left the small end of it an inch or two aft of the housing, and it was crimped in place with a metal crimp around it. The small part of the bellows was not seated all the way against the bell housing, because it just isn't that long to reach. When I installed the cable housing, I used Teflon tape on the brass fitting, as I assume this is what keeps the water out of the bell housing, correct?

2. Also, the little metal crimp used on the cable bellows was very rusted, so I replaced it with a stainless mini-hose clamp like the big one on the front end of the bellows. I turned the wheel all the way left, and clamped it as far to the rear towards the bell housing as it would go without excessively stretching. I assume this is also something most people do, instead of trying to purchase or re-use an old rusty metal crimp, correct?


The cable fed through a bit stiff at first, because the end is straight steel, but I found that straightening the cable housing in front of the transom, feeding it a little at a time did the job, without having to move back and forth, since that would grind away the inside of the plastic liner. Outside of that, I can see why everyone says replace the shift cable, if the one you have is old. This new cable slides like butter in comparison.

Ayuh,... Didn't the new cable come with a new bellows, 'n clip,..?? Yer hose clamp, Ain't what ya want there,....
That end of the bellows, I use a couple little nylon zip-ties, goin' opposite directions, Lightly cinched,...
The Mercury outboard fuel line zip-ties have an extra hicky to provide a full circle seal, so only 1 is needed,...
 

thumpar

Admiral
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
6,138
I also use zip ties but wrap it around 2 times so that it gets a full circle.
 

Condor1970

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 9, 2014
Messages
195
No, I got the SEI cable kit with just a new cable, because the bellows is in great shape. It was just the little metal crimp band that was rusty. I just wasn't sure what would be best to replace it with.

So, Zip-Ties.

Is it supposed to be able to slide a little if needed? Is that why you don't want it cinched down that hard?
 
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