Composite Decking for boat floor?

[jigngrub]

You can frame out of aluminum angle a lot easier and probably cheaper.

For the bow deck:



For the deck between the seats:



Frame out of 1-1/2" aluminum angle and 3/16" diameter closed end blind rivets.

One and a half sheets of 1/2" plywood weighs about 75 lbs., and you might have 10 lbs of aluminum angle for a combined weight of 85 lbs. ... about as much as a 10 yr. old kid weighs.

Do all of your framing and wrap your plywood with carpet and then install the deck panels on the framing screwing it down through the carpet. You'll be able to remove the carpeted deck panels any time you want for cleaning and such.

 

[REdington]

One and a half sheets of 1/2" plywood weighs about 75 lbs., and you might have 10 lbs of aluminum angle for a combined weight of 85 lbs. ... about as much as a 10 yr. old kid weighs.

That is a lot of weight when you are using a 9.9 HP engine.
This why I think the OP is on to something by using foam.

 

[mp_2008]

You can frame out of aluminum angle a lot easier and probably cheaper. For the bow deck: For the deck between the seats: Frame out of 1-1/2" aluminum angle and 3/16" diameter closed end blind rivets. One and a half sheets of 1/2" plywood weighs about 75 lbs., and you might have 10 lbs of aluminum angle for a combined weight of 85 lbs. ... about as much as a 10 yr. old kid weighs. Do all of your framing and wrap your plywood with carpet and then install the deck panels on the framing screwing it down through the carpet. You'll be able to remove the carpeted deck panels any time you want for cleaning and such.

Wow, nice work Jigngrub, I like it! Didnt think about riveting through the seats instead of the hull for the floor. Thanks for taking the time to do that cause you switched me back to the plywood and angle aluminum instead of the foam idea I had. With the plywood and angle aluminum I know it will be durable and not weigh that much more than my foam idea. Plus for as much foam as I needed it would have gotten a little pricey. Do you think the rivets through the seats would withstand the weight of the floor and someone constantly standing on it through the years. Would it be better to chip out a little of the foam under the bench seats and use small bolts, washers and nuts?

 

[jigngrub]

Wow, nice work Jigngrub, I like it! Didnt think about riveting through the seats instead of the hull for the floor. Thanks for taking the time to do that cause you switched me back to the plywood and angle aluminum instead of the foam idea I had. With the plywood and angle aluminum I know it will be durable and not weigh that much more than my foam idea. Plus for as much foam as I needed it would have gotten a little pricey. Do you think the rivets through the seats would withstand the weight of the floor and someone constantly standing on it through the years. Would it be better to chip out a little of the foam under the bench seats and use small bolts, washers and nuts?

That's why I stated closed end blind rivets, they're very strong... you'll find this out when you start setting them with the rivet gun.

Aluminum angle will be pricey if you buy it retail by the stick, but it's a lot cheaper if you buy it by the pound at scrap yards and recycle centers.

 

[mp_2008]

That is a lot of weight when you are using a 9.9 HP engine. This why I think the OP is on to something by using foam.

You think so? Like he said that's about a 10 year old kid worth of weight. Hmmm... Have me thinking again. With so much support from the angle aluminum can I get away with thinner plywood coated in fiberglass and resin? Also, If I did use the 1/2 inch I could not go up the sides of the seats and not connect the floor to the platform, also I am not going a full 4 feet from side to side. That would cut the square footage to less than a full sheet and in turn would drop the overall weight to around 60-70lbs.

 

[mp_2008]

That is a lot of weight when you are using a 9.9 HP engine. This why I think the OP is on to something by using foam.

Also, when I first got the boat, i took two of my fishing buddys out with me and it moved pretty good. Of course I noticed a bit of a difference when I was by myself but not much. I appreciate your support for my foam idea but I just think Id be more confident with the build with plywood under my feet and using a tried and tested design rather than spending the money on an experiment that will probably work but who know for how long and any unforeseen problems that might pop up.

 

[jigngrub]

You think so? Like he said that's about a 10 year old kid worth of weight. Hmmm... Have me thinking again. With so much support from the angle aluminum can I get away with thinner plywood coated in fiberglass and resin? Also, If I did use the 1/2 inch I could not go up the sides of the seats and not connect the floor to the platform, also I am not going a full 4 feet from side to side. That would cut the square footage to less than a full sheet and in turn would drop the overall weight to around 60-70lbs.

Don't tell anyone I said this, but you could probably slap a few coats of spar urethane on this stuff and then throw it away when the carpet goes bad:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...t-OSB-Sheathing-386081/100091344?N=5yc1vZbqm7

 

[mp_2008]

Don't tell anyone I said this, but you could probably slap a few coats of spar urethane on this stuff and then throw it away when the carpet goes bad: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...t-OSB-Sheathing-386081/100091344?N=5yc1vZbqm7

Its tempting since it would be so cheap and easy to replace with your design but I work with OSB all the time and its just worthless when it gets wet. I know id be sealing it somewhat but i dont want to replace it next summer... hmmmm. Have me thinking about it though.

 

[jigngrub]

That particular board actually has a 25 year warranty on it, so it should easily last the 6 yrs. the carpet is going to last if you seal it.

... btw, you said earlier that you were almost embarrassed to post pics of your tinny... do be. That's a nice clean straight tinny you have there and it's a lot nicer than my first boat was. A 14' flat bottom that leaked like a sieve and had about 6 coats of latex house paint on it.:laugh:

 

[mp_2008]

That particular board actually has a 25 year warranty on it, so it should easily last the 6 yrs. the carpet is going to last if you seal it. ... btw, you said earlier that you were almost embarrassed to post pics of your tinny... do be. That's a nice clean straight tinny you have there and it's a lot nicer than my first boat was. A 14' flat bottom that leaked like a sieve and had about 6 coats of latex house paint on it.:laugh:

Thanks, I knew it was a solid boat when I seen it. Reinforced around the top edge. Nice, clean, tight rivets, No leaks or dents. Bench seats are nice, not the ones with wood tops. Strong support ribs. Just an all around solid boat. Glad someone noticed. Transom board will probably need to be replace within 5 years but the transom is straight. But you weren't kidding about that aluminum angle being a bit pricey. Hopefully I can find some at local scrap yards. If not oh well, will be worth it in the long run. You said 1.5" wide 1/16" thick would suffice.

 

[jigngrub]

Yep, 1.5" x 1/16".

It's well worth installing it... light, strong, and will never rot.

 

[mp_2008]

I was thinking about going with 1" wide x 1/8" thick because 1/16" just doesnt seem like its thick enough. I can get all the 1"x1/8" I need for $100 dollars out the door including shipping on this online site I found. Ive just read some threads on some forums that said 1/16" isnt enough. I know its a little extra weight but thats why i was going to go with 1" wide. Thoughts?

 

[jigngrub]

1" x 1/8" will work.

That 1/16" angle will surprise you after you get it all put together and the deck screwed down, but it has to be 1-1/2".

 

[mp_2008]

Also how would you attach the flooring to the aluminum framing. Self tapping screws? Brackets?

 

[jigngrub]

1" Stainless steel self tappers, or you can use open end blind rivets. But the self tappers are easier to remove for cleaning under the deck and stuff.

 

[jbcurt00]

Your entitled to your opinion but i dont really agree with it. Like I said I use the boat already all the time. Went out on my lake a few hours last night. You make it sound like this is some massive project that will take a lot of money and time when in actuality it wont. Actually will be pretty simple. I do more in a day or two as a carpenter than what this would take so its not as big of a deal as you make it sound. There are reasons i want the deck. One, I hate it when my fishing buddy or I drop something onto the aluminum bottom and it makes that loud thud noise, especially when sight fishing. This would eliminate that. It would also save on the ankles when standing or moving from say the back bench to the platform. Also, with the current semi-V bottom, everything that is set in the boat such as tackle boxes wants to makes its way to the middle. With the deck you could put the tackle box off the the side next to the side hull of the boat and it would stay there. As for fastening I really dont see a need. My brother put a deck in his 12 ft. Deep-v last year, building it to shape and then setting it in there. It does not move and makes it easy to remove. Albeit was out of wood, you get my point. I appreciate the advice about drilling the holes but disagree with you on most everything else you said. I dont have the budget or the need for a bigger boat with a bigger motor like a lot of you guys, this is what I could afford and for what I use it for is sufficient and Ill be a very happy camper once I get my floor and platform in.

I asked about you're intent to use an engineered foam stringer, in an aluminum boat, and you aren't

I said that the styrene in polyester resin would dissolve some foam, it will

Rather then spending time building molds and using pour in foam to fab lightweight panels of foam and fiberglass for the deck, I stated that I'd rather be using the boat. Since your plan has now changed, again, you're not molding foam at all. Which would have been a time consuming task, as I stated

I suggested if you build decks and/or a foredeck that you fastenthem to the boat. Seems the new plan involves just that, via rivets and SS screws from Jig's latest post

Perhaps you did agree.................

I bought my last 2 tin boats for about what you're spending on supplies alone to modify your boat, both w/ trailers and motors. And the amount of necessary supplies wouldn't be much more to do the same work on either boat, so I'm on a budget too.

Maybe you wanted opinions, as long as they agreed w/ what you wanted to do and how you wanted to do it. I'd have agreed w/ you, but then we'd both have been wrong.

Jig's got you covered, but there are lots of guys in the dry dock w/ lots of opinions. They are all willing to help in a multitude of ways.

Good luck w/ your project

 

[mp_2008]

I asked about you're intent to use an engineered foam stringer, in an aluminum boat, and you aren't I said that the styrene in polyester resin would dissolve some foam, it will Rather then spending time building molds and using pour in foam to fab lightweight panels of foam and fiberglass for the deck, I stated that I'd rather be using the boat. Since your plan has now changed, again, you're not molding foam at all. Which would have been a time consuming task, as I stated I suggested if you build decks and/or a foredeck that you fastenthem to the boat. Seems the new plan involves just that, via rivets and SS screws from Jig's latest post Perhaps you did agree................. I bought my last 2 tin boats for about what you're spending on supplies alone to modify your boat, both w/ trailers and motors. And the amount of necessary supplies wouldn't be much more to do the same work on either boat, so I'm on a budget too. Maybe you wanted opinions, as long as they agreed w/ what you wanted to do and how you wanted to do it. I'd have agreed w/ you, but then we'd both have been wrong. Jig's got you covered, but there are lots of guys in the dry dock w/ lots of opinions. They are all willing to help in a multitude of ways. Good luck w/ your project

Perhaps my wording wasn't the best in that one sentence(way to nit pick btw). Your main point, which you brought up twice, was to USE the boat and insinuated the work wasn't worth it. That is what I disagreed with. You then said you dont understand the motivation behind the added weight and work esp. to a 14 footer, which to me was a bit of an insult. That is why I went on to explain why I wanted the floor and how its not much work compared to what I do daily so its no big deal. Also, there is no way you got a boat close to the quaility of my boat, motor(which starts first pull and runs flawlessly), and very nice tilt trailer with a suspension system for about $200-300, which is what Im going to have into this floor, aluminum, plywood, sealant, and carpet included. I actually welcome people disagreeing with my idea or opinion if they present valid points. Why else would I have agreed with you on drilling the holes, because you presented a valid point for why to not do so. About the fastening, yes I am going to fasten the aluminum frame now. But thats because I dont see how that it would be possible not to without dealing with rattling sound from the metal to metal touching and vibrating from the motor. If i was doing the foam or wood frame I wouldnt bother, that is why I disagreed with you on that before jig brought posted bout the aluminum framing. Again I appreciate you taking the time to post and good luck with your $250 dollar tin boat w/ motor and trailer...

 

[mp_2008]

What do you guys think about using 1/16" aluminum diamond plate sheets and covering with carpet as my flooring? I could get what I need for about $130-150 so its a little pricey but would last a lifetime and be light.

 

[jigngrub]

What do you guys think about using 1/16" aluminum diamond plate sheets and covering with carpet as my flooring? I could get what I need for about $130-150 so its a little pricey but would last a lifetime and be light.

You would have lots of fun removing the old carpet glue from the diamond deck when it comes time to replace the carpet.

 

[mp_2008]

You would have lots of fun removing the old carpet glue from the diamond deck when it comes time to replace the carpet.

Good point. I wonder if there is a thinner or something that would react with the glue and not the aluminum, making it easy to remove.