New guy, starcraft mariner 210

[jmalecek]

Looks like the transom corroded from the inside out I was wondering if I can put a sheet of AL inside and leave the exterior alone. Last shot as she sits now

 

[Watermann]

Mulch is right! Now for the transom skin damage, let's see what you have for holes to repair. You may have to run the wire wheel over it to get the nasty off enough to see.

 

[jmalecek]

This is the best pic of the booty I can get in this light, I'm off Wednesday and gonna take a flap wheel to it. Jamie

 

[JimbC]

It just means more work that's all don't let it scare you away. Salt water corrosion. PS don't worry about a pattern for the wood part of the transom you can use mine, we are only about an hour and a half away.
Good read below

http://www.boatingmag.com/boats/prot...ater-corrosion

 

[Watermann]

Well the problem with a patch on the inside is your transom thickness and being able to get her back together. Most guys, me included clean the inside and skin it with marine tex or JB weld. Then to beef up the outside by using patches over the weakened areas. I had 4 patches on the outside of my Chief, 2 areas where old tabs were, another one where the pitot tube/transducer were and a horrible area where there had been a kicker bracket. I think an outside plate where the motor mounts would work good for yours.

Just to show you what it did look like filling all the pitting inside. Remember that is just a skin to keep out water, the strength comes from the wood and bracing.



and the patches on the outside of the transom...

 

[jmalecek]

JimbC and Waterman, thank you for the encouragement. I was getting the backside puckers when I started seeing the corrosion and new holes.
Wed I am off, I will pick up a gallon of aircraft paint stripper and get all the paint off the transom to see what is behind the paint.

Is there anything I can spray on the corrosion to kill it? Like baking soda and water does battery acid.
Also any ideas on flipping this beast? I would like to strip all the paint as it looks like theres about 6 layers on it, and I don't know what is hiding under the paint on the bottom.

Thanks again
Jamie

 

[64osby]

Vinegar will neutralize the corrosion. Then rinse.

The guys with experience will let you know if you should etch and prime before Mtex or after.

 

[Watermann]

The corrosion is alkaline so you have to use an acid to neutralize it but not go overboard the other way. I must have sprayed my transom skin down 3 or 4 times using the Heinz cleaning vinegar sold by the gallon cheap at Wal Mart, no mixing and it's a bit stronger. I sprayed it them scrubbed with a brush then rinsed, sprayed again and used the wire wheel when wet with the vinegar rinsing until the corrosion was gone. Then the MT went on, then SE primer, regular primer and a coat of paint. if you want to add more to the future resistance.

 

[JimbC]

I would wait till I got the transom and splash well back on the boat before I flip it. You want it to not flex so much.

 

[MNhunter1]

I would wait till I got the transom and splash well back on the boat before I flip it. You want it to not flex so much.

I braced mine with a couple of 2x4's for the flip. One across the top of the transom and one across the dash mounting brackets. Just cut them to length and put a few bolts through them for temp support if you want to attack the hull before the transom. A 2x will slide right in at 1.5" width. Credit goes to Watermann as I stole the idea from one of his recommendations on another post. Works pretty slick and saves some weight for flipping.

 

[jmalecek]

Right in front of my splashwell there was a 2 x 6 AL c channel that was fab'd to strengthen the boat. I will probably put that back in before I flip it and a 2x4 across the top of the transom. But flipping is a while off, still have to remedy the transom skin, remove carpet glue from walls, pull console, remove front casting deck, and leak test the hull.

How hard are they to flip? I don't have alot of room to work with.
Is there supposed to be wood or something under the top skin of the gunwales? I only have foam and it doesn't feel to sturdy.

Thanks,
Jamie

 

[Watermann]

3 man job, 3 to lift it up and then one goes to the other side to balance it while the other 2 come around and help lower it down again is what I did. Guys have concocted other ways using hoists to do it alone but a couple buddies and it's done in a minutes time. .

Nothing under any gunnels and yes the hull feels very flimsy once tore all the way down to bare hull. I took everything out of my Chief, rub rails, cabin, bow cover and gunnels. It was scary how weak and fragile it felt like that when working on it. If your gunnels have loose rivets I would suggest replacing them all. Guys use these boats all rotted out and compromised causing all of the rivets to get loose not to mention start cracking the hull. It's amazing to see how the boat becomes more and more solid as you put her back together with all the new fasteners.

 

[jmalecek]

Hey Waterman, am I wrong or are the only vertical braces for the gunnels the fishing rod holders on the sides? When you did the patches to the skin on your Chief, did you bond them with marine tex or something before you riveted in place? I have a few rivets on the transom that need to be replaced, I am thinking blind rivets coated with 5200, but I am more than happy for suggestions.


When I get to actually dropping in the transom, I'm gonna follow JimbC's method to not bend up the AL any more than it has to. Are the end caps available for these boats? Mine had a piece of 1.5" angle on both sides lol.

Thanks again.
Jamie

 

[64osby]

The end caps pop up on ebay once in a while, one of the members here MichaelP makes some and he sells on ebay or you could try sending him a PM.

Expect to pay about 100 George Washington's.

I was lucky to find a set at one of my local salvage yards for $6.00.

 

[Watermann]

Hey Waterman, am I wrong or are the only vertical braces for the gunnels the fishing rod holders on the sides? When you did the patches to the skin on your Chief, did you bond them with marine tex or something before you riveted in place? I have a few rivets on the transom that need to be replaced, I am thinking blind rivets coated with 5200, but I am more than happy for suggestions.


When I get to actually dropping in the transom, I'm gonna follow JimbC's method to not bend up the AL any more than it has to. Are the end caps available for these boats? Mine had a piece of 1.5" angle on both sides lol.

Thanks again.
Jamie

Yeah CC boats don't even have the consoles to provide support to the gunnels. The main thing I think is the "shelf" piece and the ply that attaches to it and the floor as far as support for the sides of the boat. The pitting was filled with MT and the patches were back buttered with 5200. I wouldn't use any blinds through the hull for the boat structure but to hold things on the outside, closed end blinds with 5200 is fine. For patches on the transom there's a trick to it using the solid rivets so the transom wood slides in without hitting the bucktails.

One of the forum members makes the end caps, I think it's MichaelP and his resto thread is listed above in SC resto sticky, you can PM him about it.

 

[classiccat]

For patches on the transom there's a trick to it using the solid rivets so the transom wood slides in without hitting the bucktails.

See Post #1090

 

[jmalecek]

Took almost a qt of clean strip just for the transom skin Here's the inside after scraping, wire wheel, and flapdisc. Found some new holes. Found more corrosion, not the best pic but the popcorn lookin things are corroded rivet heads. More than 70 on this side of the boat. I didn't take pics of all but you get the jist of it. No I'm at a delema due to the amount of rivets, close to 200 just what I found today. Any criticism, comments, suggestions? Thanks Jamie

 

[Watermann]

Fuzzy pop corn rivets don't sound very appetizing :lol:

About all you can do is press on with the tear down/clean up, pressure washing and paint stripping. I believe my final count for rivets used on my Chief at just under 600.

 

[jmalecek]

Fuzzy pop corn rivets don't sound very appetizing :lol: About all you can do is press on with the tear down/clean up, pressure washing and paint stripping. I believe my final count for rivets used on my Chief at just under 600.

Thanks for all your advice Waterman. I know it's double work, but you think I should postpone the leak test until after all the paint is stripped and rivets replaced? Also is there a truck to clean strip? It seamed to dry out quick and didn't remove the amount of paint I was hoping for. I pasted 8 or 9 coats if it before I got to the point of the pic above. Thanks Jamie

 

[Nismoron]

Man! 200 rivets already. :-( Yikes!
And 600 on the Cheif! Wow!

We just stripped a 69 Starcraft 14ft V-Jon and it took 3 gallons of Aircraft stripper and pressure washing and wire wheel.