winterizing my i/o chaparral

[vipertblck]

One thing I noticed when I drained the block and manifold, block was a brownish color water towards the end, and manifold was black at the end.....should I be concerned?

 

[Bondo]

One thing I noticed when I drained the block and manifold, block was a brownish color water towards the end, and manifold was black at the end.....should I be concerned?

Nope,... So long as it's Dry, there's No worries at All,....

 

[vipertblck]

the fact of having black water from my manifold at the end of drain isn't an issue? I only ask because that's where exhaust gas' are flowing and if something was wrong they could leak in and maybe create that black? then I thought more and if water was getting in my ports and cylinders, it wouldn't run right and I would also suspect white smoke, all of which are not present.

 

[acerussi]

I'm going to go against the grain here and absolutely suggest that you fill the block and manifolds with anti-freeze. Exposed metal with air will be promote corrosion. I'm guessing you are operating in fresh water so far less concerning than if you were in salt water, but having the block and manifolds full with anti freeze will significantly slow down the corrosion process by eliminating air from the equation. Run the engine to flush with fresh water, change the oil and oil filter and fog the engine. Then shut it down. Once that is done change the fuel / water separating filter and fill it with fresh treated fuel before putting the new filter on. Once that is all done drain the water and fill with anti freeze from the hoses up by the thermostat. You will see it all run out of the exhaust when it's full. Make sure you store the dirve in the full down position to ensure the bellows are not stretched throughout the winter. They can be prone to cracking if stretched for long periods of time in extreme weather. I have a Merc 5.0MPI and go the anti freeze route every year.

 

[Starcraft5834]

this topic will never die.......and it's not even that cold yet..opcorn: Sad face.....gonna drain mine and put it to sleep this weekend. It's that time of year now.......Salmon River here I come!!

 

[vipertblck]

ran into an issue guys. gonna buy the stuff this week and do it to the boat Saturday (10/4). Menards has two different kinds, by looking at the MSDS pdf sheet, looks like their both Propylene Glycol based. keep in mind boat will be stored inside at above freezing temps(around 35-40). would it matter which one I get? just wanted to check in here before I did a bad move and bought something I shouldn't.

pink stuff
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-ha...06-c-10098.htm

pink/red stuff
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-ha...11-c-10098.htm


also my method of getting it in the engine will run it to flush it out with the hose, then hook up the muffs and a hose attached to a 5 gal bucked filled with these jugs, let the bucked flow into the muffs and start the engine(no water psi as a hose spicket does). does this method work ok for everyone?

 

[bruceb58]

also my method of getting it in the engine will run it to flush it out with the hose, then hook up the muffs and a hose attached to a 5 gal bucked filled with these jugs, let the bucked flow into the muffs and start the engine(no water psi as a hose spicket does). does this method work ok for everyone?

No.

Drain the blocks and the manifolds. If you really insist on the antifreeze, after you drain it, remove the thermostat housing and pour it in there.

 

[vipertblck]

Ok, why though? Not to argue your point, but just so I can learn. Why does the bucket and hose method not work? I just liked that because then my outdrIve and anything else will have antifreeze in any small crevices that may have been missed during draining.

No. Drain the blocks and the manifolds. If you really insist on the antifreeze, after you drain it, remove the thermostat housing and pour it in there.

 

[JASinIL2006]

The first time I tried to winterize, I used a similar method (I tried feeding the outdrive using muffs connected to a hose and a funnel, into which I poured the antifreeze. I thought the drive would just suck up the antifreeze, but it really didn't draw it in that well. I don't know if the muffs let in just enough air to prevent the pump from pulling in the antifreeze or what, but it did not work.

I ended up pulling the engine later in the Fall anyway for a transom replacement and I just drained everything. The stuff that came out of the engine was mostly water. If I had left my engine that way, the block would have certainly cracked. If you insist on using antifreeze, drain the engine, then do as bruce58 and others have suggested and pour antifreeze into the thermostat.

Personally, I just drain it and forget it.

 

[vipertblck]

how bout that antifreeze from menards, is that stuff sufficient?

 

[vipertblck]

Well, after this whole entire fiasco and 4 pages of everyones input; I finally found the "recommended" way of winterizing my boat, per Mercury. The "Operation, Maintenance & Warranty Manal" from Mercury Mercruiser for gasoline engine-alpha/bravo models, states in their " cold weather and extended storage" section, in my book on p. 150.

"For additional assurance against freezing and rust, fill the cooling system with a mixture of antifreeze and tap water mixed to manufacturer's recommendation to protect engine to the lowest temp to which it will be exposed during cold weather or extended storage

A remove t-stat housing or hose and fill with coolant until block and head are full. if t-stat housing was removed, re install and tighten bolts securely.
B remove water hose from exhaust man and fill man with coolant. reinstall hose and tighten clamp.

store boat with drive unit in full down/in position"

direct from the book! looks like I don't need to suck anything through the muffs!

 

[JaCrispy]

The second post on this thread stated exactly what you just read in your manual.

 

[bruceb58]

Or just drain it and no anti freeze since you are a fresh water boater and don't need to worry about the corrosion and you said you are selling it anyway!

 

[HT32BSX115]

Or just drain it and no anti freeze since you are a fresh water boater and don't need to worry about the corrosion and you said you are selling it anyway!

Yeah................Hmm......This thread is STILL going?

My last boat went 39 years being drained (only) and the corrosion STILL didn't become a problem!

How long are you "Anti-Freezers" gonna keep your boats anyway?

 

[UncleWillie]

ran into an issue guys. gonna buy the stuff this week and do it to the boat Saturday (10/4). Menards has two different kinds, by looking at the MSDS pdf sheet, looks like their both Propylene Glycol based. keep in mind boat will be stored inside at above freezing temps(around 35-40). would it matter which one I get? just wanted to check in here before I did a bad move and bought something I shouldn't.
pink stuff
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-ha...06-c-10098.htm
pink/red stuff
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-ha...11-c-10098.htm
also my method of getting it in the engine will run it to flush it out with the hose, then hook up the muffs and a hose attached to a 5 gal bucked filled with these jugs, let the bucked flow into the muffs and start the engine(no water psi as a hose spigot does). does this method work ok for everyone?

The first link does not work. The second (Peak) product's MSDS states it is 20% Methanol. So, NO to that one.

Your method of flushing does not include draining the block before adding the Antifreeze. Not an Option.
Adding room temperature Antifreeze is going to close the Thermostat instantly.
You really need to pull the thermostat to do it correctly.

Pouring into a funnel will not work, You will not be able to maintain a continuous flow through 6 gallons.
The Bucket method works and the drive will pull plenty of suction as long as it never sees air in the hose.
The hose must be primed before you begin. See Post #17 again.

 

[Fun Times]

Menards has two different kinds, by looking at the MSDS pdf sheet, looks like their both Propylene Glycol based. keep in mind boat will be stored inside at above freezing temps(around 35-40). would it matter which one I get?

If you'd like to take the extra time to add antifreeze in your properly drained engine then you'd be better off using the pink stuff as it seems more environmentally friendly for when you restart the engine next year as it will do less harm.

also my method of getting it in the engine will run it to flush it out with the hose, then hook up the muffs and a hose attached to a 5 gal bucked filled with these jugs, let the bucked flow into the muffs and start the engine(no water psi as a hose spicket does). does this method work ok for everyone?

One of the main reasons this methods does not work so well is due to most of the time you'll run a high risk of not getting any/or enough A/F into the engine block due to 1'....the thermostat is not open enough to allow the needed amount of A/F to flow into the engine block and/or 2'.....the engine get's shut off almost as soon as you see the A/F come out of the exhaust thinking the complete system is/must be full.....But it's not since the thermostat hasn't/isn't opened letting the A/F into the engine properly. Your only filling the exhaust system unless you follow UncleWillie's advice using the muffs as it's a little more efficient than your way...But you still want to confirm the block has actually filled up with A/F.

Yeah................Hmm......This thread is STILL going?

Guess we're a bit more lenient than Don was.

 

[vipertblck]

going out tonight to take care of it, gonna put some gas and stabil in, start it up and let it warm to operating temps on the gauge, shut it down, wait to cool and drain block. Block and suck through blue drain hoses(one in block and other in manifold) to ensure all is drained. then ill pull the big hose off the t-stat housing, fill with a/f and wiggle all hoses to ensure it's all sucked into the engine, reinstall hose. then do the same with manifold, whichever hose is highest feeding it, fill with a/f, then reconnect. wiggle all hoses again to ensure a/f moves around and burps any air or what not.

then pull blue drain hoses again and collect antifreeze. after that pull it inside, put drive all the way down and be done. my primary reason for a/f is to just help "oil" the insides and what not. as far as the drive, I haven't really read to much or seen anything in the manual about a/f in there, so ill just keep it in the down position to be completely drained and assume it's good. hope this works! thanks everyone again

 

[Fun Times]

drain block. Block and suck through blue drain hoses(one in block and other in manifold) to ensure all is drained.

Be sure that when you pull the drain plugs, you poke the holes to ensure your removing any built up sand that's normally blocking water flow.

As far as the drive, I haven't really read to much or seen anything in the manual about a/f in there, so ill just keep it in the down position to be completely drained and assume it's good. hope this works! thanks everyone again

Page 1B-17 will help guide you with the proper steps to take with the drive. Make sure all the little drain holes are clear from sand, etc. http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercruiser/manuals/mercruiser14.html#/28