Starcraft QUestion. WHat is this bracket for?

[oldboat1]

well, 2-part poly foam for water proof floatation, used for boat building, according to some brief reading. Corning XPS sheets for below grade insulation, suitable for boat flotation (water proof). Great Stuff absorbs, apparently -- although seems to be some indication that the cured surface is water resistant. Think I'll just keep the life jackets handy.

What is the plan for seats?

 

[pro-crastinator]

No Title

Seats. 1.5 inch thick yellow pine. Ends routed to reduce thickness to 1 inch to fit seat mount bracket. I have the better part of a gallon of fresh polyester resin and wonder if encapsulating the pine will "look right". I'm going for a wood look and have a nice piece of 3/4 inch pine to install under the front cowl - it looks kinda like a miny dash board and serves to give strength and support to the small front deck.
[Back to the seats] - I like the idea of a nice thick, bench that I can adhere some additional flotation. It will not be in an aluminum box.

Pic 4 shows a bow light that my father got from my grandfather - that was mounted on a wooden boat that Grandpa built in the 1940's.

Pic 2 shows the "spreader bar" that I measured and FORCED in - to achieve the listed 64 inch beam.
Pic 1 shows the curve of the gunnels - which I am pleased with so far.

 

[oldboat1]

will be nice. I've used West System on mahogany, finished clear. Would think yellow pine would be nice, probably also finished clear. And the seats in that hull come in and out without much trouble, so could make a change on down the road. Your seats look like they mount lower than mine in my lighter hull, and that could be a consideration if putting under-seat flotation in, along with flooring and flooring flotation. Nice idea to use a bow light that has some memories. Putting that mini dash in will also give a nice look, imo. Good project.

 

[pro-crastinator]

No Title

Question.
The side edges of the floor - where should they extend to?
pic A or Pic B?

 

[64osby]

My bigger hull is like pic B.

I've patched holes in the hull with JB Weld. If it is in an area that won't be seen i like to to back up the patch with a small piece of aluminum for added strength.

 

[jbcurt00]

Dont use polyester resin unless you use cloth or mat too. Many wooden boats are done w resin and glass, the glass should go clear and be almost unnoticable.

If you use epoxy, it needs to be protected from UV, so it'll nees several coats of Spar varnish.

If you use epoxy on the deck (floor) plywood, you'll likely cover it w paint or vinyl, so that epoxy wont be exposed to UV.

Since this is no longer a topic about just brackets, want to consider remaming the topic more generally.

Perhaps

Starcraft rebuild questions

Or similar?

 

[oldboat1]

Clear or bright means unpainted (look of wood). Multiple coats of varnish with a UV inhibitor, or maybe varnish over epoxy for required protection. I've done a number projects with epoxy and varnish, and it comes out well -- but more involved on the front end. Varnish may last longer on epoxy base, but don't think that's written in stone either Follow mfg instructions for varnish or paint (paint sometimes more of an adherence issue.) I'll look for your thread as it sounds like a nice project.

[edit: not sure about the floor placement question]

 

[pro-crastinator]

Several items to address.
Floor replacement
stay tuned
aluminum patching/hole repair.
Many / most of my holes are exposed and visible. The jbweld/aluminum backer method sounds like it will be just right ? but you stated that this would be better for unseen repairs. I could use more comments regarding this.
Resin coating on wood
I'll get epoxy resin and resist the temptation to use the polyester. I'll need it for the new transom anyway...
I didn't realize the UV vulnerability of the epoxy. Huh.
Renaming thread
Hows about: Starcraft rebuild 1965 Marlin
My NEXT posting will be under the new thread name.
I don't think that past posts are of any large consequence.
You guys are great!
Thanks for the conversation ? It helps O so much to bounce off ideas to those who have done it already.
-Bennett

 

[jbcurt00]

If you start a new topic, please post a link to it here and link this topic there.

When the time comes ask about the aluminum patching in the new topic

Thank you and good luck w the rest of your project.

 

[Grandad]

Question.
The side edges of the floor - where should they extend to?
pic A or Pic B?

My 21' Holiday is like picture A. Notice the space you have between the bottom of the plywood and the end of the rib in picture B? Unless you keep the plywood intimately sandwiched to the end of the ribs where you're rivetting, I'm sure that your rivets will worm their way into the wood and become loose, just due to flex between the floor and hull. - Grandad