92 3.0L distributor

[AlphaJustin]

Does anyone have a good picture of their 90's 3.0 OMC distributor that is correct? Mine is a disaster it's wired correctly but facing the wrong way I'll post a pic. It also refuses to let me 0 the timing advance and stay running. BTW I bought it like this and never really used the boat so never noticed until now. This picture was taken before I changed the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and tried to set the timing. It runs in this position.

 

[Bondo]

but facing the wrong way I'll post a pic. It also refuses to let me 0 the timing advance and stay running.

Ayuh,.... What do ya mean, facin' the wrong way,..??

Do you know how to stab a distributor,..??

Do you know how to bring the motor to Tdc, Compression stroke,..??

If so,....
Pull the distributor, move things, 'round where ya what 'em, 'n drop it in, alignin' the oil pump drive, 'n rotor as it drops into the cam gear,....

 

[AlphaJustin]

Yeah I can handle it I think if I can figure out how to turn the crank behind the mount without the space to get a socket in there anyway, unfortunately it's in the water at the marina so that adds to the difficulty. I was just confused on how or why it was actually running like this and at 20+ degrees advanced no less when it should be at 0 and facing a different direction (I think the connectors are supposed to face outward and not backward?) I figured if I could see someone else's it would help.

 

[bruceb58]

You don't need to turn the crank. Take the cap off, note which spark plug the rotor is facing. Pull the distributor off. Rotate the distributor keeping the rotor facing towards the same spark plug wire and put it back in.

 

[AlphaJustin]

Thanks for the tip bruceb58, I take it this method is assuming it was stabbed initially at tdc? Or doesn't matter?

 

[bruceb58]

Thanks for the tip bruceb58, I take it this method is assuming it was stabbed initially at tdc? Or doesn't matter?

Correct.

Thinking about it more, take off the cap, mark with a sharpie on the housing which direction the rotor is pointing, pull the distributor out and reinsert it where you want it with the rotor pointing toward the sharpie mark.

 

[AlphaJustin]

Thanks again I'm going to try to crank it with the starter to get it as close to tdc as I can and see where the rotor is pointing before anything. I get the feeling it's off and that's why when I set number 1 to 0 it knocks and doesn't want to run it's because it's not in the right position and the valves are not right for it to fire there. I'll respond again after I check and let you guys know if I got anywhere or not.

 

[bruceb58]

You are putting the distributor into base timing mode before you set the timing right? You are using a shunt?

 

[AlphaJustin]

I wish I could say yes but I can't... Base timing mode? Shunt? Did I miss that section in the official manual? Ugh if my timing isn't off then I have a bigger issue.

Oh alright wait connecting the wires sets base timing haha yes I did that didn't realize that's what that was I just thought it was an override for the switch. I'm still not sure about a shunt though.

 

[bruceb58]

Maybe you should describe your procedure to see if you are really doing this correctly. What wires are you talking about?

What manual are you using?

What is your model number?

 

[AlphaJustin]

Good idea we will start easy haha.
Model# 302bmrmah
I bought it cheap to clean it up and get it running then flip it for a quick profit but it's giving me nothing but trouble lol.
Lately I've been using the manual you can download from the sticky on this forum great manual very detailed I threw out my clymers literally.

Looking at my picture it's the connector facing outward with two white wires those two are the ones I jump. That's the right one isn't it?



When I did checked it I ran it till it was warm and choke fully open set rpm at 650 then jumped the wires hooked up the timing light and checked the timing it was off can't remember where just that it wasn't near 0 and needed to be adjusted when I could get it in the water I didn't change base timing. I took the jumper off and started playing with it and that's where I got my degrees from because that's how it'll be in the water normally correct? Anyway I put it back where it was and came to ask questions. Because it isn't facing the right way and didn't seem right at all I figured best to ask before messing with it anymore since it does run now I didn't want to have to bring it somewhere when I completely messed it up and didn't know how to get it running again.

I'm using the words base timing even though when I was doing it I was just following the manual and didnt really know what I was doing or why just that it had to be done.

 

[bruceb58]

You need a factory manual. The way you did it is not correct. If you were doing g it correctly, there would be one wire that you hook to 12v.

That manual you looked at is likely the Seloc which is just slightly less worthless than a Clymer.

You need a timing shunt.

 

[AlphaJustin]

Okay I had my friend pull it last night and take it to his house he has better water pressure hooked up the muffs started it and I'm about ready to give up on this thing. I found the shunt locally BTW 23 bucks may go buy it but now I'm not sure if it's worth it the engine is giving me nothing but trouble. Here's a video of its newest F-U that it's thrown my way.

Don't buy a decent looking dirty non running boat for 200 dollars and assume you can get it running and not have an issue is the lesson I've learned the hard way luckily I'm only about 1000 into it right now so not bad yet.

https://youtu.be/IWlnu0L42lk

 

[AlphaJustin]

The miss is from #4 when I pulled it to compression check the engine the plug was fouled I'm assuming from it being so rich before I adjusted it. After I cleaned it and put it back in it doesn't miss anymore but still makes that knock noise.

 

[AlphaJustin]

Back on topic sorry, it's off 180 degrees the rotor points At 4 at tdc I'll need to fix that first.

 

[bruceb58]

Back on topic sorry, it's off 180 degrees the rotor points At 4 at tdc I'll need to fix that first.

That's fine. TDC can be either 1 or 4 depending on which one has it's compression stroke on that revolution.

 

[AlphaJustin]

Oh alright then I always thought when the timing mark hit 0 it should be on #1. I spun the mark around twice and both times it was on #4 so I figured it was off. I guess I'll keep digging.

 

[bruceb58]

Oh alright then I always thought when the timing mark hit 0 it should be on #1.

4 stroke engine. Distributor rotates half as much as the crank shaft

 

[AlphaJustin]

Going to try restabbing and setting base tomorrow picked up the distributor shunt but while reading the manual it says I need to pull the valve cover and watch for both intake and exhaust valves on one to close completely to find tdc in firing position. Does this mean I can't just pull plug one and wait for compression stroke? Do I absolutely have to pull the valve cover? Thanks.

 

[Bondo]

Does this mean I can't just pull plug one and wait for compression stroke? Do I absolutely have to pull the valve cover?

Ayuh,..... It don't matter how ya get there, so long as the motor is at Tdc, cylinder number 1,.....

Checkin' the rockers is just a way to verify that fact,....