1995 evinrude 9.9 2 stroke carb adjustment

[radioactivenewf]

Hi again guys and gals,
So I done a rebuild to this engine since previous owner overheated it, here is what I done:
New Pistons, rings, honed cylinders, had head shaved as it was just out of spec, new gaskets and seals. New power end main bearing. Couldn't find the needle cage bearings for the connecting rod top or bottom. New water pump kit.
Initial startup went fine, but it proceeded quickly to die. Re choke to get it to fire back up. Die again. I went to setup carb as factory default but this seloc manual I have does not make any sense for the configuration I have. I have tried several times to re read and interpret what they are saying with no luck. Does anyone here have the info for the proper initial setup of this carburetor? It's a 1995 9.9 255cc 2 stroke. Thanks for any replies

 

[oldboat1]

Expect it would be 1 1/2 turns open (counterclockwise) from lightly seated. Absent a different instruction for that motor, try it with that standard initial setting. Didn't say the carb was rebuilt -- maybe needed.

 

[radioactivenewf]

Thanks. The carb wasn't rebuilt but it was apart and cleaned. When you say from lightly seated, the seating of the spring bottoming out I take it. Because without the spring, the needle goes a lot further in.
I'm starting to think there is an air leak or something else wrong anyway. It lopes and idles rough. Actually got it to stay running, till I put on the cover and it dies. Again, choke it and it fires up momentary.

 

[AlTn]

try backing out the idle mixture needle 5 full turns

 

[radioactivenewf]

Thanks AITn, I will give that a shot later today. I was looking for specific instruction on the complete setup of the carb including the linkages. The cam follower ect... Anyone have the directions from an evinrude manual?

 

[oldboat1]

Thanks. The carb wasn't rebuilt but it was apart and cleaned. When you say from lightly seated, the seating of the spring bottoming out I take it. Because without the spring, the needle goes a lot further in.
I'm starting to think there is an air leak or something else wrong anyway. It lopes and idles rough. Actually got it to stay running, till I put on the cover and it dies. Again, choke it and it fires up momentary.

think that's right (spring compression seats the needle) -- but don't have a model-specific manual for the '95. If you have it ready to dunk, put it in a barrel or in the lake and see if you get it idling, and dial it in.

edit. if can locate an initial setting that works, try bumping it leaner (clockwise) until it coughs or stops, then back it out to the running position and go again. At that point (engine running), turn the needle counterclockwise (richer) until it start to stumble, then turn clockwise to the rich/lean midpoint, if that makes sense. That should be the operating setting. Object is to get it running smoothly as slow as it can, with no stalling when shifting and smooth throttling up. Harder to say than to do.

 

[radioactivenewf]

Thanks old boat.
Yes that does make sense. I just can't get it even to than point. It lopes very hard. It will idle sometimes then randomly not. The throttle cable and adjustment on the end of the tiller seems to be loose. Also, cant find an idle adjustment on the carb itself... I still haven't tried backing out the air screw 5 turns because of weather but may get a chance later

 

[oldboat1]

would want to check ignition, if you haven't already. Strong, steady spark. Think loping like you describe could be an air leak too, potentially related to reassembly in rebuilding. And leaf valves behind the carb assembly might be a cause, if not checked during rebuild. Head gasket could be an issue if leaking/not properly torqued. Hard to narrow down -- If working on the carb, though, best approach is disassembly and soaking of all metal parts, cleaning with fine wire and compressed air before reassembly. "Cleaning" means different things to diff people.

 

[radioactivenewf]

No Title

Thanks again boat.
The spark appears thick and strong. It does seem like an air leak to me. But I really would like to follow the proper sequence for getting the carb initial adjustment.
I think I uploaded a pic of the manual I'm going with. If anyone can explain step 2b to me as I have no idea what they are talking about.
During the rebuild, the head was shaved(0.006") to get within spec. All new seals and gaskets were used, including head gasket. All bolts were torqued to what his manual told me.The reed valve appeared in good clean condition as well.
This evening I tried backing out the air screw 5 turns with same symptoms. I then removed the carb for another clean. Used carb cleaner, wire thru all the small diameter holes, brake clean to further clean and compressed air to blow out all holes. All screws and the top and bottom plastic covers were removed including float and needle seat assembly. Same symptoms. If I don't figure out the carb settings I will remove the power head and take apart and check all torque on the bolts....

 

[oldboat1]

can't do it, radio. sorry. Have a '91 in the garage and may take a look at those instructions while looking at the '91 (which may be different, of course), but no help offhand.

 

[radioactivenewf]

No prob boat, I do appreciate you help thus far. And yes, likely those would be different. I'm going to pull it tomorrow and check the rebuild. Has to be air leak. I do notice some exhaust leak on the inside of the "compartment" spewing out smoke near the lower part of the engine. It also has no thermostat yet as the parts guy gave me the wrong one...

 

[oldboat1]

yeah, running cold means you won't be able to fine tune, but sounds like it's not quite up to that yet anyway. I have a similar issue (exhaust coming up in the pan -- looks to be toward the front of the engine.) Thinking I botched installation of the powerhead to leg gasket, or maybe needs a better torque. Will watch over your shoulder a little, and see what your fix is.

 

[AlTn]

maybe this will be of some help...these steps are to take all the slack out of the throttle cable while having the idle adjusting knob set to its lowest position for idle. The idle adjusting knob is the red knob on the end of the tiller handle, back it off <;counterclockwise> until there's no tension on the throttle cable. Next it mentions a pin holding the cable to the throttle arm on the carb. Yours may have a ball and socket arrangement, if so, just snap the cable end <; socket > off the ball. Now, can you turn that cable end < ball > clockwise until it stops, then turn it CCW just enough so that it can snap back onto the ball on the throttle arm without moving the throttle arm<just a slight about of slack in the cable ..1/2 turn or so of the socket end >? If so, great, if not, I'm outta ideas for that step. Step C...if necessary, remove the bracket holding the throttle cable to the powerhead and spin it around the threaded end of the cable until the slack is out of the cable when the cable is attached to throttle arm. Again...just trying to achieve a slack free cable when the idle knob is turned completely to its off position. Step 3 is talking about the screw at the carb roller..does your have a spring that it goes through? Really doesn't matter, but these instructions just add confusion if it has no spring and you are looking for one. The mark on the timing cam could be a raised ridge, line, indention, etc., there should be something different on that cam and this is where the center of the carb roller would be just as the throttle butterfly in the carb throat begins to open. These instructions are instructions to set the carb roller between this mark and the end of the timing cam which would be on the tiller handle end of the cam < lowest point on the cam >. This sets the ignition timing and throttle opening at its lowest point while the idle speed adjuster < red knob > is completely off. Once all this is set, you can adjust the idle speed up or down using the red knob. Initially you may find that you have to turn the idle adjusting knob clockwise so it will increase the idle speed enough for the the engine to run. You'll probably have to adjust on the idle mixture needle as well to try to achieve a smooth idle . The idle mixture needle is what I was referring to in post #4. Anyway, with the other issues resolved, thermostat and exhaust fumes. and the engine warmed up, hopefully you get the carb set so you can adjust the idle speed from the red knob and achieve wot as well. All that red knob does is move the throttle cable in small increments.