Bow Rider restoration/remodel questions

drpepper68

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Sep 8, 2014
Messages
75
So I'm doing a remodel on my Four Winns bowrider and had a couple of questions..

I am putting in a 4 way ignition switch so it requires it to be on ACC before switches will work.. before they were wired hot. !Anything wrong with doing it that way? Also i was thinking I should wire the bilge hot not requiring the key for safety? It has built-in float switch.

I am thinking of mount an anchor roller mount and only place to mount is off to the side on the front of the bow cause I didnt want to mess with moving the bow light. Wanted to get opinions before I drill and mount it if its not a good place? I'm thinking right between the bow light and the start of the rail?

Thanks!



anchor_mount.jpg

image_230704.jpg
 
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drpepper68

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Sep 8, 2014
Messages
75
does anyone have a newer boat and can tell me how their ignition switch is wired? Does the toggle switches (lights, bilge, etc) work without the key on ACC and is the bilge pump wired to work without needing the key?
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
Okay see if I can help try to answer your questions. The position you selected for the anchor roller mount seem like it will work okay if there isn't anything under the hull cap to stop you. Just make sure it is really secure because there is a lot stress on that mount when raising an anchor. On the ACC switch setup. I can see both sides of that one myself. I can see it being nice to have it only on the ACC position, but also separate as well. So that one will be up to you. Obviously a general ignition type switch can't carry enough current to operate everything in the boat. So you may have to setup a relay to handle the larger amount of current. I think I will make a Master switch that turns off everything and not go through the ignition switch for my setup. But like I said, it is really a personal decision. On the bilge pump, some folks wire them direct (via a fuse) to the battery so they work all the time. Again I can see both sides of that situation as well. I still think I will run everything trough one Master switch so IF I decide to turn off everything, there is one place to control it all. But again that is just my opinion...
 

DeepBlue2010

Lieutenant
Joined
Aug 19, 2010
Messages
1,305
Of course. Safty equipments (lights, bilge pumps, anti corrosion systems such as mercathode, radio, etc) are installed on the battery side of any switch you have and require no key at all.

Installing the anchor mount off the center of the bow is kind of ugly if i may say so but more importantly, it doesn't allow for easy and straightforward retrieve. Replacing the nav lights with separate red&green mounted on either side of the anchor mount is much cleaner approach and it is very simple
 

drpepper68

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Sep 8, 2014
Messages
75
Okay see if I can help try to answer your questions. The position you selected for the anchor roller mount seem like it will work okay if there isn't anything under the hull cap to stop you. Just make sure it is really secure because there is a lot stress on that mount when raising an anchor. On the ACC switch setup. I can see both sides of that one myself. I can see it being nice to have it only on the ACC position, but also separate as well. So that one will be up to you. Obviously a general ignition type switch can't carry enough current to operate everything in the boat. So you may have to setup a relay to handle the larger amount of current. I think I will make a Master switch that turns off everything and not go through the ignition switch for my setup. But like I said, it is really a personal decision. On the bilge pump, some folks wire them direct (via a fuse) to the battery so they work all the time. Again I can see both sides of that situation as well. I still think I will run everything trough one Master switch so IF I decide to turn off everything, there is one place to control it all. But again that is just my opinion...



yeah i have a master battery switch selector back by the battery but my main issue is my kids flipping switches randomly. :) my other thinking is what if i lose the key while on the water... say its late and i need the lights on or to keep the bilge running, I dont want to be stuck with hot wiring it in that situation. I'm thinking I'll put everything off the hot from the battery to all the switches bypassing the need to have the key on. I can always change it later very easily by moving on wire over the the acc side of the switch on my setup.

that brings up a good point on the anchor mount is if i can even reach underneath on the side front. might be more pain than its worth.
 

drpepper68

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Sep 8, 2014
Messages
75
Of course. Safty equipments (lights, bilge pumps, anti corrosion systems such as mercathode, radio, etc) are installed on the battery side of any switch you have and require no key at all.

Installing the anchor mount off the center of the bow is kind of ugly if i may say so but more importantly, it doesn't allow for easy and straightforward retrieve. Replacing the nav lights with separate red&green mounted on either side of the anchor mount is much cleaner approach and it is very simple




I was thinking the same thing about the anchor mount after I posted and look at the pic more. I think it will be ugly as well. I might go the route of replacing the bow light that I just replaced. Couldnt really find any I like though so far.

I will wire all my safety switches up hot then since that sounds like the right way.
 
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