1967 Starcraft resto, code name "On Holiday"

[dpotter]

Thanks Ron, that's kinda my plan. Once I get it all cleaned out, I'll check the deck to tank distance. It it's to close, I'll move the stringers out a little to raise the floor level. The tank should have a couple baffles in it so it should have some strength. I did find some neoprene that I could use. I was looking forward to Coosa, but like you say, I'd likely only be doing the next owner a favor.

 

[64osby]

Gluvit likes warm temps as I recall. Might want to check the product temp ranges for application.

It might take days or weeks to dry if applied when it is in the 30's.

 

[Watermann]

I would suggest nothing on top of your tank if it isn't in contact with the decking then you have no worries at all. The problem that comes to mind with something added on top isn't abrasion or corrosion it's inadvertently using the tank to support the deck, that's a serious no no in boat building.

 

[dpotter]

Thanks 64 and Wattermann. Yep, I may be in wait mode on the gluvit. I've got lots of cleaning to do anyway. I like the plan of noting on top of the tank, What I'm trying to achieve is keeping the wood on the deck from holding moisture against the tank or chafing. I'll move the stringers to make sure I have enough clearance.

 

[dpotter]

Wow, some of those pine cones came over with Columbus. They are so old they have become part of the hull. No bilge plug was needed. Took 20 minutes just to dig with hammer and chisel to get to the hole.

 

[dpotter]

I know you can't see most of it, but I ended up taking a trenching shovel and digging out the area below the transom and the bow. What a mess. Still fun making progress. Temps are starting to drop and I don't believe the thermostat so I'll take it up again tomorrow. It's cold out there.

I'm guessing about 400lbs(8 bags about 50lbs each) of wet leaves, pine cones and trash came out of this boat. It's much easier to wiggle around now. It's supposed to be mid to high 40's next week. One of those days will be pressure washer day and leak test.

 

[oldhaven]

Isn't it strange that that kind of thing can be kind of enjoyable? If humans were not able to see how things might be, rather than as they are now, we would never do anything like work on an old boat. Is that a curse or a blessing? I wish I had weighed the plywood decks I tore out plus the waterlogged foam. Nice that you did because I felt like it was at least that much.

Ron

 

[dpotter]

I struggled for the word. I think therapeutic might be better than fun, but I do enjoy making progress. I have seen so many nice boats built on this site. It does me good to get my brain off of work and onto achieving my ultimate goal. I have the end result in my mind and just can't wait to get there.

 

[Watermann]

Yeah man forward progress is the name of the game on these old boats. Unfortunately this is when guys loose interest and disappear from the forum between the tear down and hull repair stage. There must be a couple hundred abandoned threads. Glad to see you still at it and looking forward to more punishment!

 

[Grandad]

I'm thinking the tank tie-downs don't need to be anything exotic. A couple of aluminum angles at the outside edges would not put undue stress on the tank. You'd still want to put something such as neoprene as padding between the angle and the tank. You'll also want to add some tabs from the stringers to stop the tank shifting fore and aft. I would expect that whatever "glue" you use under the tank will eventually fracture and let the tank slide unless there's some mechanical stops in place. - Grandad

 

[dpotter]

Thanks WM and Grandad. I plan on making some hull strengtheners and will have one fore and aft of tank to prevent sliding if the 5200 let's go. They will look something like tank baffles and attach to the stringers every other rib. I talked to a window guy and he is looking for some thin neoprene with glue on one side. We found some window tape 3" wide that may work if I cut strips from it.

 

[dpotter]

Hey WM. The white I want to use is like you have in your signature pic do remember the color or code? My paint scheme will be similar to yours except where yours is blue mine will be a creamy yellow from the 1950's. They used it on the late 70's ford pickups too. I've picked the seats and layout. One benefit to the layout is I need to build a false engine cover between the jump seats. That cover will also cover most of the fuel tank preventing walking on the deck above the tank.

 

[Watermann]

I used the VanSIckle industrial tractor enamel 462 gloss white.
http://www.vansicklepaint.com/tractor/tractorenamel.html

 

[dpotter]

Thanks WM, I have several ugly dents and white seems to hide those better than other colors. I do plan to try to get them straightened out as best I can during the stripping process. I picked up the HF paint gun and supplies. I already have several blasters. I'm going to try some glass beads on the rivets at the aft seam to see how it works out.

Is the gloss white on the bottom or the cabin?

 

[Watermann]

I used the same white for everything, 2 gallons of it, all with catalyst hardener.

I've always gone old skool with paint stripper, scrapers and fine to med wire wheels. Some guys like the nylox wheels but I haven't used them, maybe on the next one I will try them out.

On the dents I've found it was best to try and be a body and fender man with MT or JB, rather than attempting to hammer or pop them out. I prefer MT over JB for this. Anyway with a little work using a bondo spreader and sander you can make those dents go away or at least not be as deep or sharp. One trick I found that works great when using MT or JB is to use the heat gun to warm the metal and the MT so it spreads incredibly easy and fills the pitting better too. There's a sweet spot time wise on the sanding, too soon it plugs up the sand paper too late and it's like sanding case hardened steel. Oh yeah on the surface prep before applying the JB/MT, scratch the dent to be repaired with either some course sandpaper or a course wire wheel or brush, go in a cross hatch pattern to give the goop some more grab.

 

[dpotter]

Thanks WM, I'll do some practice with that. I have a small tear in the rib on one side. I knew I would need something like MT or JB for that.

Oh on the subject of projects dying at this stage. I can't imagine anyone stopping at this point. It seems that I'm committed from here. Maybe it's just that I should committed. ha I'm even putting my Nautique up for sale when the snow goes away. The kids don't ski anymore and the grandkids can ski behind this.

 

[dpotter]

Hey WM, the side to side piece you built between the stringers page 38 of your thread is just what I had in mind for some hull stiffening. I plan to put one like this about every other rib. Also some from the stringer to each side. I'll attach the floor to them for even more strength.

 

[Watermann]

Hey WM, the side to side piece you built between the stringers page 38 of your thread is just what I had in mind for some hull stiffening. I plan to put one like this about every other rib. Also some from the stringer to each side. I'll attach the floor to them for even more strength.

Not to be confused with hull stiffeners the piece you're referring to I believe is in the pic below pic ahead of the motor mounts. That is a fire wall 1.5" marine ply shielded with .080 AL on the motor side, up from that is my fuel tank and reason for it. The angle AL cross pieces I used too for deck supports, it's a very good idea when using 1/2" ply decking.

I found a pic that shows the firewall and what are actually hull stiffeners that I added along each side to tie in the bottom and sides above that spray rail chine weak point that all older SC's have.

 

[dpotter]

Wohoo, now that the hull is swept out I'll have just about 1" clearance between floor and tank. and I can get more by moving the stringers out a little. I had hoped more of the tank would be under the center storage compartment I'm building, but no luck.

 

[dpotter]

WM, Man that looks nice. You do great work. Can't wait to get there. I'm going through "Tin addiction" for the third time.