1967 Starcraft resto, code name "On Holiday"

[dpotter]

splash well is out, now back to raking leaves, pine cones and beer bottles then last piece of floor and transom come out.

 

[jbcurt00]

Post some pix of the damaged transom knee.

Several have been fixed, depends on actual damage.

 

[Watermann]

Just about all of the OB SC's have the same damage but the course of action as stated all depends on the amount of damage. Usually it's just the angle cracks off that attaches to the transom through bolts.

 

[oldhaven]

This looks so familiar....

 

[dpotter]

Just about all of the OB SC's have the same damage but the course of action as stated all depends on the amount of damage. Usually it's just the angle cracks off that attaches to the transom through bolts.

the 6 bolts that go through have only 4 holding. broke off around the top 2. also a crack in the knee portion. I'm thinking about getting the knee crack welded and then using aluminum angle to use as a sandwich material for strength. to dark for a photo. I'll try tomorrow.

 

[dpotter]

I found a couple pieces of rolled up paper and was curious. I guess when I unbolted the original pump the original paperwork fell out from behind it. Can't believe it lasted from 1967.

 

[jbcurt00]

Nice find

 

[oldhaven]

That would have ended up shredded in a rodent nest in mine.

Ron

 

[dpotter]

That's what I would have thought in mine too. There were 2 huge rats nests and some pine cone collection areas in mine. Hoping to get the last of the floor and transom removed today. Cold weather has moved in and snow is accumulating again so not sure if I'll brave it or not. Much colder temps for this week.

 

[Watermann]

Snow-mageddon part 2

 

[dpotter]

Ok, here's the pic of the knee brace. The top part is broken on both sided. One side is cracked at the bottom. The fix looks simple enough. relatively heavy aluminum angle iron bolted through the knee brace and then drilled through the transom. Sound good?

 

[dpotter]

It's a little tough getting the transom out. The bolts through the transom into the side braces have the threads stretched. Must have been some real torque on them. I'm having to grind the heads off. Only one actually unscrewed. I did get the rear section of the floor out. No idea when it will be warm enough for a leak test, but I'm getting enough stuff removed to keep me busy. I'll order the flooring this week and get it cut and sealed. I'll pick up the coosa in about 2 weeks. Should get a leak test in somewhere in there.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Ok, here's the pic of the knee brace. The top part is broken on both sided. One side is cracked at the bottom. The fix looks simple enough. relatively heavy aluminum angle iron bolted through the knee brace and then drilled through the transom. Sound good?

quite a few get the ole knee brace heavy aluminum angle repair. That's what I see the most.

 

[dpotter]

Well, the fuel tank arrived and so did the cold weather and lots of snow. Bummer. Supposed to be back in 30's late this week. Maybe I can get something done. I did pick up some fast cure 5200 this morning. I'll likely install this like Wattermann did his. There are remnants of fiberglass on the bottom of the tank where they used fiberglass to glue it in the previous boat.

 

[dpotter]

Went out to check the fit. It couldn't be more perfect.

 

[oldhaven]

You couldn't have been any luckier than finding that good a fit. Most new ones with that capacity require stringer moves. I look forward to seeing how you do the fill and vent. Is the Coosa for the transom, and if so will you go 1.5 or two pieces of .75?

Ron

 

[dpotter]

Yes, the coosa is for the transom. I will have to use 3/4 like you did. To do 1.5 I would have to get it cut in Florida and shipping to Montana is cost prohibitive. I'll pick it up in Seattle on my monthly visit. I'll still need some neopreme for spacers and the tank hold downs. I'm also looking into using some thin sheet aluminum to make some bracing for the lower part of the hull. Kind of like baffles in a tank. It'll make sense when I get one cut for a photo.

 

[dpotter]

The objectives of going with this under deck tank are multi fold. Lower center of gravity by having the tank in the center and below deck also more capacity. The lake I live neat is the largest fresh water west of the mississippi. I wanted more range. I came up with another idea for those long trips. I have an 18 gallon plastic tank that I can mount in the original position. That would only be used for those long trips to the northern most parts of the lake. All day trip there and back. This will give me a total 48 gal capacity. Keep from being gouged by buying fuel on the lake.

 

[Watermann]

Nice score on the fuel tank! It's a super tight fit height wise, just be sure that the decking is not in contact with the tank at all.

 

[dpotter]

Thanks WM. I understand that anything that can keep moisture against an aluminum tank will cause corrosion. I still have debris under the tank so it will sit lower. If it's to close, and maybe if it isn't I'll run a strip of neoprene along the top to keep the wood from contacting the tank. I also need to put a drawing on top of the decking to keep screws from coming in contact with the tank.