-100 antigel

Onexl85

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Has anyone seen the quicksilver -100 antigel antifreeze available online?
 

Bondo

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Nope,.... Don't use antifreeze,....

Air don't freeze,.....
 

alldodge

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Agree with nope, only see Merc regular antifreeze to use in a closed cooling system.

Like Bondo, don't use pink stuff in the engine, along with other kinds of snake oils
 

alldodge

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If you question is with regard to pink RV/boat antifreeze then the answer is the Bondo statement of "air don't freeze"

If your comment is with regard to something else. I need to do the Ricky Recardo statement of "Espaline Lucy"
 

fieromx3

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well draining the block doesnt necessarily drain ALL of the water out, rv antifreeze is only a couple of bucks, seems like a couple of bucks that is worth the extra insurance. i would rather spend 7-10 bucks and a few extra minutes filling all cavities of the engines cooling system and not having to worry about it freezing/cracking.

i still drained the block and manifolds after i filled it with the pink stuff
 

Onexl85

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That's what I did, ran anti freeze thru the muffs until the t stat was kicking. Then I dogged it out. Then pulled the drain plugs......today my marine mechanic told me that he leaves the antifreeze in so the block doesn't rot
 

fieromx3

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i took my thermostat out to get immediate full flow but i also intended to replace my thermostat
 

stonyloam

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....today my marine mechanic told me that he leaves the antifreeze in so the block doesn't rot

Pure BS. Your engine was full of hot seawater all summer, what makes anyone think it is going to "rot out" when it is filled with cold air all winter.
 

thumpar

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oxygen can accelerate some rust in iron
So does water. I don't remember ever seeing a post about a rotted block not matter how it is was winterized. I have seen many cracked block posts from people that use antifreeze though. Mine gets drained and left empty.
 

Grub54891

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I believe the ones that DO crack the block with anti freeze, do not drain the block first. Then the block is still full of water. Draining first allows the anti through the system. I've don't by winterizing with air and with antifreeze. Never an issue either way.
 

burtonrider11

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Me personally, just drain the block....My 5.7 has 5 thumbscrews and a couple of hoses here and there to pull off, seems simple enough to me. I run in freshwater only so rust/corrosion is less of a concern. My engine is a 1997, I just recently pulled one of the manifolds and inspected the water passage ways and all looks well. Bondo has it right, air doesn't freeze. Even the Merc manual just makes the suggestion that you can add tap water and antifreeze. However, you have to be damn sure you mix it right and to the appropriate temps. And then you have to run it into your block via your thermostat, which it is recommended you replace your thermostat gasket at that time also......seems like a lot of extra work and risk for very little reward to me.

I used to broker boats as a side hobby and dealt with hundreds of boats, clients, mechanics etc. Every time there was a cracked block it was due to someone running water/antifreeze into their block. I NEVER had a mechanical inspection of a boat/motor and had the inspector/surveyor come back to me and say the block is rotting due to air being in the block during layup. Never.

If it makes you feel better, throw whatever you want in the block, just know there is next to no benefit in it.
 

stonyloam

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OK, the reason a block cracks is that when water freezes it expands about 10% in volume, and if the block is FULL the expanding ice will crack the block. So if you properly drain the block, sure there will be a little water left here and there but since it is not confined it is free to freeze and expand and does no damage. While we are at it, there are some misconceptions about RV (pink) antifreeze. RV antifreeze does not give freeze protection, it gives BURST protection. -50 RV af will freeze solid at about +12 F but unlike water DOES NOT EXPAND ON FREEZING enough to cause damage until it reaches -50 F, thus the -50 BURST rating (that is why you can't use RV in your car, because it will freeze and plug the radiator causing an overheat). The problem is that if you dilute the RV with water (as happens when you put it in through the muffs) it dramatically reduces the burst protection, and while temps of -50 are uncommon, temps of 0 or -10 are not. So at some point you need to drain the engine.
 
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