sutor623
Rear Admiral
- Joined
- May 23, 2011
- Messages
- 4,089
Hey guys,
Some of you all know that I have been working with a '95 'Rude 130 horse. This is a looper, 90 degree, single powerpack engine, with quickstart and SLOW. She's been coming along nicely, and letting me get some good fishing time in.
Brief history, motor sat for 5-6 years under cover. Last service that was done replaced the powerpack due to no spark on cylinder 3. P.O. told me boat still seemed to have some issues.
Fast forward to today. After a nice decarb, motor is at 140PSI compression on all 4 cylinders. Did a complete fuel system overhaul, including check valve and fuel pickup from tank, all fuel lines, VRO rebuild kit, carb rebuild kits as well as intake manifolds and gaskets. Complete link n sync done as per factory manual, timing properly set at idle and WOT. Waterpump and thermostats were changed. LU oil changed and put 20hrs. on it, no water in gearcase.
Pulled the powerpack to inspect the parts, and the blue wire coming INTO the powerpack (from timer base) was pinched to ground (this is cylinder 1). Of course that will cause some issues, so I fixed that and it seemed to help.
Motor now idled great on muffs, and in the water at idle, cruise and WOT. Plenty of power to get on plane.
When I first get on the lake, she starts up great, warms up, and we are off. Idles perfectly in gear. Not a hiccup. Sounds and runs beautifully. I will sit and fish a spot for 30-45 mins, then start her up. Shell start right up, and then give a little miss here and there at idle in gear, but no hesitation, will get right on plane and off we go. If I stop, fish, and cruise, eventually after 3-4 times of running and then stopping, the motor will give me a much harder time starting, but once firing up will miss quite a bit and hiccup pretty badly. Once above idle, she will plane out and really take off, no other issues.
I have checked this motor in the driveway, and have a really hard time getting it to duplicate. A couple of times in the driveway I lost spark to cylinder 1 via timing light. I also lost cylinder 3 one time via timing light. I also feel that the spark drop test is less changed by removing the lead from cylinder 1, even after swapping ignition coils, but that is very subjective. I did however find that the stators resistance was out of spec, so I put in a new stator, and timing base while I was under the flywheel. Went to the lake again. Same issue, no resolve.
Here are my questions:
1.) Since the blue wire (cyl. 1) was pinched to ground from timer base to powerpack, there is an increased chance that the pack may now be faulty?
2.) When I dropped cyl. 1 in the driveway, I put the DVA meter on the lead FROM the powerpack on the ignition coil, and had 0 volts. The time that cyl. 3 dropped out via timing light, I put the DVA meter on the powerpack lead and it also read 0 volts, whereas when it is sparking we are looking at 130DVA at the lead. So the question is this:
If the ignition coil is going bad wouldn't the powerpack lead read SOME voltage? Since it reads 0V does this mean its the powerpack and not the ignition coil?
3.) My tach is working and battery is charging well, so is it safe to rule out the rectifier assembly?
Here is where the pinch was:
Some of you all know that I have been working with a '95 'Rude 130 horse. This is a looper, 90 degree, single powerpack engine, with quickstart and SLOW. She's been coming along nicely, and letting me get some good fishing time in.
Brief history, motor sat for 5-6 years under cover. Last service that was done replaced the powerpack due to no spark on cylinder 3. P.O. told me boat still seemed to have some issues.
Fast forward to today. After a nice decarb, motor is at 140PSI compression on all 4 cylinders. Did a complete fuel system overhaul, including check valve and fuel pickup from tank, all fuel lines, VRO rebuild kit, carb rebuild kits as well as intake manifolds and gaskets. Complete link n sync done as per factory manual, timing properly set at idle and WOT. Waterpump and thermostats were changed. LU oil changed and put 20hrs. on it, no water in gearcase.
Pulled the powerpack to inspect the parts, and the blue wire coming INTO the powerpack (from timer base) was pinched to ground (this is cylinder 1). Of course that will cause some issues, so I fixed that and it seemed to help.
Motor now idled great on muffs, and in the water at idle, cruise and WOT. Plenty of power to get on plane.
When I first get on the lake, she starts up great, warms up, and we are off. Idles perfectly in gear. Not a hiccup. Sounds and runs beautifully. I will sit and fish a spot for 30-45 mins, then start her up. Shell start right up, and then give a little miss here and there at idle in gear, but no hesitation, will get right on plane and off we go. If I stop, fish, and cruise, eventually after 3-4 times of running and then stopping, the motor will give me a much harder time starting, but once firing up will miss quite a bit and hiccup pretty badly. Once above idle, she will plane out and really take off, no other issues.
I have checked this motor in the driveway, and have a really hard time getting it to duplicate. A couple of times in the driveway I lost spark to cylinder 1 via timing light. I also lost cylinder 3 one time via timing light. I also feel that the spark drop test is less changed by removing the lead from cylinder 1, even after swapping ignition coils, but that is very subjective. I did however find that the stators resistance was out of spec, so I put in a new stator, and timing base while I was under the flywheel. Went to the lake again. Same issue, no resolve.
Here are my questions:
1.) Since the blue wire (cyl. 1) was pinched to ground from timer base to powerpack, there is an increased chance that the pack may now be faulty?
2.) When I dropped cyl. 1 in the driveway, I put the DVA meter on the lead FROM the powerpack on the ignition coil, and had 0 volts. The time that cyl. 3 dropped out via timing light, I put the DVA meter on the powerpack lead and it also read 0 volts, whereas when it is sparking we are looking at 130DVA at the lead. So the question is this:
If the ignition coil is going bad wouldn't the powerpack lead read SOME voltage? Since it reads 0V does this mean its the powerpack and not the ignition coil?
3.) My tach is working and battery is charging well, so is it safe to rule out the rectifier assembly?
Here is where the pinch was:
