new stairs

redneck joe

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'We' added a third bath upstairs in the bonus room (my office and a spare room now are officially rooms and i don't have to run downstairs to pee) and of course
'we' then decided to repaint the two 'new' rooms then of course
'we' needed to pull carpet in upstairs hall and
'we' needed to put hardwood in then of course
'we' needed to scrape popcorn ceiling in the hall and stairwell then no need to have carpeted stairs so
'we' pulled that up then of course
'we' need to paint the ceiling which will now require
'us' to paint the wall but of course
'we' first have to repair the crappy mud job the popcorn was hiding etc etc etc.


So now I think the last part of this will be 'us' installing new oak treads and risers.




Going to scab the new risers in front of the old ones (there is a good reason)

Stain tread, paint riser (classic look)

New ones are 1" thick, of course the old are 1.5"
New ones 11.5"deep, old 11.25"


Question is, how to attach? Old of course just nailed because covered with carpet. I have a finish nailer that should shoot a 2" nail thru the (solid) wood and can putty but only want to do that a few time per tread as you can never completely hide putty.

Liquid nails?



also, what clear finish would be best.
 

64osby

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Jul 28, 2009
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Not a fan of liquid nails, like PL premium much better for things like this.

If possible test the ability of you nailer. Thick oak is hard and sometimes the nailers wont drive the nail all the way in. Had one time where I had to pre drill holes to get finish nails through the oak without bending.

Satin Poly would be my choice of finish.
 

Chad Flaugher

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Jan 2, 2015
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You can get that difference in tread thickness back by adding .5" to each riser. PL 400 beats liquid nails. I don't know how limited your access is, but if you secure a block with screws to the inside of your risers, you can then screw upwards into your treads adding greater strength without added holes. (I'd still shoot a couple finish nails in) Hint: When ever I remove acoustic (popcorn) ceiling texture for clients, I strongly suggest a skip trowl or rosay hand texture to better hide flaws. Most drywall of that era (60's or 70's I assume) used nails exclusively. Its a great idea to add a few screws to each sheet on each rafter to tighten it up.
 

redneck joe

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Believe it or not this house was built in 2000 complete with hunter green counters and all shiny gold fixtures.... Turning out pretty good just some touch up at the edges where they didnt do well on the mud. Those angled ceiling joints aint fun. We're gonna be doing the big room soon I'll post up if i run accross something odd.


No access to the underside unless i pull the risers which will go right back on so kinda wasted effort unless it is worth the effort. Is the 400 different than the premium? Is it like 4200 v 5200?
 

jbcurt00

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I hope he's referring to the Loctite video that plays on their home page.
 

rbh

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Clamp in place any wood pieces pre drill for screw, get a piece of dowel and drill a pilot hole deep enough that the screw head is down a 1/4"+ and the dowel can be glued in over the screw-sheared off and sanded so you can not tel the difference.

Hows that?
 

redneck joe

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Mar 18, 2009
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Clamp in place any wood pieces pre drill for screw, get a piece of dowel and drill a pilot hole deep enough that the screw head is down a 1/4"+ and the dowel can be glued in over the screw-sheared off and sanded so you can not tel the difference.

Hows that?



Yep
 

redneck joe

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second coat of poly on (drying really slow in the garage) and 3/4" cabinet grade plywood on sale ($30) for hte risers with coat of primer on






Besides measuring four times and cutting once, any tips? Want to put in Sat and Sun.
 
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