1984 johnson 75 hp compression

JoshKeller84

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Hey guys, just picked up a cheap 1984 johnson 75/40 jet off of a totaled boat. Motor starts and idles well in the test tank. Definitely running on all 3 cylinders, as tested by removing plug wires one at a time while running. My question, is that the compression is 140, 135, 115. Removing exhaust cover, and pulling head shows little if any carbon. Would you examine why the bottom cylinder is lower, and look at rebuilding, or just run it as is? Thanks guys
 

flyingscott

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Yes I would investigate further you are more than 10% off on the bottom cyl.
 

boobie

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If it was my mtr, I'd do a GOOD decarb on it, then check the compression again. If it comes up, I'd go run it.
 

JoshKeller84

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also, the airbox silencer has cracked, presumably from me smacking it with my ratchet unintentionally with it being 20 degrees out. Is it a problem to run with a hole in the air cover, or remove it completely?
 

JoshKeller84

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can it just be removed without any problems? it actually looks pretty bad ass with those carbs exposed, and since its a jet, noise isnt a concern.
 

oldboat1

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Running without an airhorn might lean out the mix. Additionally, I think there was reference in a prior thread to the air horn or the engine cover affecting tuned exhaust (i.e., operating without the airhorn might affect factory exhaust tuning). Running without it might give you a hotter look -- but the motor might also run hotter (as in hotter temp) or a little ragged.

If you want to hotrod a little, you might try misting water at the open carbs with the engine warmed up and running at a high idle. Would not want to hydrolock it -- just an attempt to clear some additional carbon, similar to what boobie mentioned although I don't know if he would approve of the "steam cleaning" method. It's an old-time fix with carbureted cars -- more controversial with two-cycle outboards. If more comfortable, could do that with seafoam or something similar.

Don't know if the head and covers are back on. If not, suggest replacing gaskets and resurfacing covers, then torquing to specs and retorque after running. Torque pattern is important (usually a clockwise circular pattern, beginning in the middle). It's possible there are other issues, of course, but you might find the compression evens out -- can look further if the simpler fix doesn't work.
 

JoshKeller84

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Alright, tearing into the motor and i think ive found the issue. I found a piece of a reed in the exhaust. This motor has been apart, and recently. Whoever did the rebuild didnt meas with the head - its chunked out pretty good. I would think this is the issue with the lower compression. I used a caliper and verified each cylinder is coming at 2.98" bore, so i dont believe it was ever messed with - just a piston thrown in it. The bore looks in great shape. New head, new gasket and see what happens?



 
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Bosunsmate

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Id shave the head on a piece of glass with wet sandpaper to check its flat.
Id definitely drill into the top of the crankcase while you have the head off to install a new outlet T for the water. Very very important
 

flyingscott

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Tell tale is fine where it is no need to move it that motor does not require the tell tale being moved. I would be more concerned about how clean that bottom piston is looks like water ingestion maybe new. I would also replace that head or take it to a machine shop see what they can do with it. Looks like somebody cobbled her up good. The fact there are file marks on it would concern me more than moving the tell tale. What does that bottom piston say on it is it d2. If it is could be .020 over check your mic, those left the factory with a 3" bore can't be smaller.
 

JoshKeller84

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It simply says UP. Rechecked with a different caliper and all 3 cyl are 3.0" on the nose
 

emdsapmgr

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I'm interested in the lower cyl on the powerhead. The bottom of the cyl liner face (where the compression ring sits) may be chewed up. It looks rough at the 6 o clock positon. that surface is just not a smooth as the rest of the liner face.. Any chance you are leaking some compression around the seeming porosity in that area? Maybe it's just the picture. Bottom cyl definitely ate the ring. The 6 oclock positon on the bottom head face picture does not look like it's making proper contact with the seal ring on the headgasket. Same area as the cyl liner, above.
 

flyingscott

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that's good but still have the head looked at I would be concerned about the sealing surfaces
 

emdsapmgr

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I'm interested in the lower cyl on the powerhead. The bottom of the cyl liner face (where the compression ring sits) may be chewed up. It looks rough at the 6 o clock positon. that surface is just not a smooth as the rest of the liner face.. Any chance you are leaking some compression around the seeming porosity in that area? Maybe it's just the picture. Bottom cyl definitely ate the ring. The 6 oclock positon on the bottom head face picture does not look like it's making proper contact with the seal ring on the headgasket. Same area as the cyl liner, above.
 

Bosunsmate

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Do you just plug off the old tell tale outlet?
Yes.
If your telltale motor outlet is near the bottom of the exhaust housing then you definitely have to move it to the top. But if its not then like Flying Scott said you dont have to bother.
Im not sure where it is on this motor.
 

flyingscott

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Only the 56 cid needed the tell tale moved and 86 and later only. The motor you have is a 49 CID block no need to move the telltale. There is a service bulletin out from OMC that covers the tell tale relocation. The bulletin covers 1986-1994 56 CID block only. Every time one of these 3 cylinder motors comes up people say to move it you don't have to. I have the service bulletin right in front of me as I type this the models affected are
1986-1994 70 HP
1987-1994 65 HP​
1989-1994 60 HP
Service bulletin # 2276
This problem effects the top cyl of the 56 CID block not the bottom.
Don't look for problems that aren't there and concentrate on the head and block ​moving the hose isn't going to solve any of your problems. So put your energies towards fixing the problem you have. The document is to big to upload otherwise I would put it here.
 

Bosunsmate

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Maybe thats true you dont need to do it. But for me too agree i would need to be told how exactly a motor evacuates airbubbles, which are of course always risen to the top of the cooling chamber in the crankcase halves, when the outlet is only halfway down the motor?
 
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