Lifting boat to replace bunk carpet?

[boatrup]

So I am going to be replacing the carpet on my trailer bunks soon due to it being nearly worn off. My big question though is how do I support the boat to remove the bunk? I don't have a dock to leave my boat at while doing this, so I need to be able to lift up the boat enough. ​What kind of rigging have you all used to do this? I have plenty of jacks and a 3 TON engine lift. I thought about using some straps and the engine lift to lift the back of the boat, but that wont lift completely off the bunk. Any suggestions?

 

[redneck joe]

Float it off at the ramp. This time of year the ramps are dead and thejob should only take an hour or so

 

[gm280]

With the different jack capability you have, just life one side at a time and replace the bunk individually. You don't have to lift the entire boat to change them out. Jack up one side using jacks underneath and use some 2 x ? to spread the load over a wider, longer area with the jack(s) and replace one side, then the other.

 

[oldjeep]

Step 1 - abandon all hopes of removing the old carpet from the old bunks, buy new wood
Step 2 - carpet your new bunks
Step 3 - go to the launch with your new bunks, cordless drill and whatever brand new fasteners you will be using
Step 4 - dump boat in and tie off to dock - replace bunks in parking lot.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I needed to get my boat off the trailer when I refurbished the trailer, and I went the route of raising the boat, installing blocks, and moving the trailer out from underneath it. It worked, but it was really a pain in the neck. If I were only changing the bunks, I'd definitely do as others have suggested and find a quiet day at the ramps, float the boat off, and pop on some carpeted bunks as the boat floated. You will save hours doing that.

If you do decide to block the boat, there are lots of threads here that address pulling the boat off the trailer. Just do a quick search and you'll find a number of different approaches.

Good luck!

 

[GA_Boater]

Welcome aboard.

Redneck and GM have the answers!

What boat will be sitting on the new bunk carpet? Light or heavy boats would need different methods - Except with Joe's ramp float off, the boat is out of the picture.

One way to increase the lift of the engine hoist is to raise the front of the trailer using the tongue jack, which causes the stern to lower. Then the hoist will lift the boat more and maybe clear the bunks. I've used GM's side lift for heavy boat/trailer combos needing new bunks or bunk carpet. Worked every time.

 

[redneck joe]

Go with gm's plan

 

[boatrup]

Thanks for the advice. I'll try gm's suggestion and use a long board with the jacks and lift one side at a time. ​Also thanks for the advice on just replacing the boards rather than re-carpeting them. What kind of lumber should I use? I'm guessing the pressure treated wood would be the best, but I don't know for sure.

 

[GA_Boater]

What's the boat? PT should not be used anywhere around or in an aluminum boat.

 

[gm280]

Thanks for the advice. I'll try gm's suggestion and use a long board with the jacks and lift one side at a time. ​Also thanks for the advice on just replacing the boards rather than re-carpeting them. What kind of lumber should I use? I'm guessing the pressure treated wood would be the best, but I don't know for sure.

I would forego any pressure treated wood if your boat is an aluminum hull. :nono: The chemicals they use to treat such wood will react badly with Aluminum boats.

If your boat is not aluminum, then pressure treat can be used. But I would also coat them with some good preservative and certainly carpet them again before installing them. The carpet does protect the hull from scratching and such. JMHO!

 

[momule]

ALSO: Make sure that when you replace the bunks they extend past the transom by an inch or more so that the rear weight of the boat is resting on the stronger transom and not bouncing on the rear bottom of the hull.

 

[Bryonreid]

No Title

I just lifted a 17' aluminum boat off the trailer to restore the trailer. I used a 2 Ton Bottle Jack and about 10 4X4's.

I am sure there are better easier ways to do this. But this is how I did it with the tools I had available.

1.) Cut the 4X4's into 16" pieces leaving 2 4x4's intact.
2.) I laid 2 4X4 parallel and connected them with a 16" 2X4 making an "H" I used this to support the keel when using the bottle jack
3.) once the boat was off the bunk boards I cribbed (Stacked like Linkin Logs) the 4X4's up to the boat. Then lowered the boat on to the cribbing.
4.) Repeat for the front.
5.) Use the Jack and "H" brace to temporarily lift/support the boat when you move the trailer and the stack comes up to a support for the trailer.
6.) Do not leave the trailer on just two stacks. I lowered it on to 2 4X4's used as runners under the boat
7.) Once the trailer is removed, do not place any part of your body between the boat and the ground until you lower it on the runners. This is just in case something shifts. Always good to keep safety in mind.

Good Luck and be safe!

 

[Bryonreid]

But keep in mind....I HAD to remove the boat entirely due to the restoration of the trailer.

 

[airshot]

Many years back I replaced my bunks on a trailer and used the tilt to the side method without an issue. I did use non treated lumber but did not wrap the bunk board with carpet only the top and sides which left the bottom of the bunk with exposed wood. This allows the bunk board to dry out some, with the board completely wrapped it will rot quickly, but by allowing the bottom exposed to the air, my bunks were 5 yrs old when I sold the boat and still in great condition.

 

[bigdee]

Many years back I replaced my bunks on a trailer and used the tilt to the side method without an issue. I did use non treated lumber but did not wrap the bunk board with carpet only the top and sides which left the bottom of the bunk with exposed wood. This allows the bunk board to dry out some, with the board completely wrapped it will rot quickly, but by allowing the bottom exposed to the air, my bunks were 5 yrs old when I sold the boat and still in great condition.

^^^x2^^^ I do this with SYP standard grade lumber. I try to pick boards that are close grain. Bunks last a long time on pontoons b/c they don't get wet when boat is on trailer. In warm season when boat is off trailer rain water quickly dries. My rot has always been around bolt holes.

 

[Prophammer]

I did something similar for bunk repair 1 bunk at a time: lower the trailer jack as low as it will go , the stern will rise , block the stern as high as you can, spreading the load as wide as possible, 6X6 blocks are what I used. Then jack the trailer jack back up and a space opens at the rear while the blocking takes the weight, then block the front likewise, then let the jack down, the boat will come off the bunk, you make have to do it a couple of times and add some wood to get required clearance, I would only do one side a time and be extra careful to make sure blocking is safe and not wobbly.... and that load is spread enough so as to not damage the hull.

 

[jayhanig]

Seriously, it would scare the mess out of me to work under my boat depending on some blocks. As others have suggested, far and away your best option is to take your boat and your tools, supplies, etc to the boat ramp. Float the boat, tie it off, and go fix the trailer in the parking lot. That's how I fixed my bunks the last time and it really worked well. It also allowed me to really examine the trailer for problems.

BTW, you will save your self a ton of time if you just cut off your old U-bolts rather than trying to save them if they're corroded. Just plan on replacing them and make sure you have enough hardware to do the job with some extras just in case you lose a necessary item in the gravel.

 

[frobotz]

Step 1 - abandon all hopes of removing the old carpet from the old bunks, buy new wood
Step 2 - carpet your new bunks
Step 3 - go to the launch with your new bunks, cordless drill and whatever brand new fasteners you will be using
Step 4 - dump boat in and tie off to dock - replace bunks in parking lot.

this is how we did mine on my old boat. Everything pre made ready to bolt on. Took a generator and grinder sawzall for rusted hardware. Floated the boat, cut old off and drilled and bolted new bunks. took about an hour total.

 

[joetheis]

Once upon a time...........
I had bought a fishing boat and trailer package.
I wanted to paint the hull and while I was slithering @ under the boat/trailer, I noticed my bunks were SHOT!
I was jacking up the boat with blocks and 4X4's, 2X4 and a pile of bracing.
A old guy who walks his dawg by my place EVERY day stopped to watch the show.
After a few minutes of jacking the fore, blocking, jacking aft, he asked me, "why don't you just up the TRAILER, block the boat and lower the trailer"?
I finished my lifting and did the work.
Later that summer I bought a sailboat and wanted to refurbish the trailer.
I did his method, I gotta tell you it worked a whole lot better, safer!
I lowered the crank to raise aft, jacked it up a bit more with a floor jack, blocked the trailer up, cranked the front of the trailer and a used a jack to get it wheel off the ground, braced the boat with some 4X4 X8' on sturdy cinder blocks, lowered the crank and pulled the trailer from under the boat!
Was easy, and SAFE.
I found it much easier to replace the bunks and carpet as a pair, as the old carpet is pretty beat by the time you get to it.
I paint my pressure treated wood with oil based paint, cuz the modern pressure treated "stuff" isn't much good! (I did use 2 layers of plastic decking planks on a boat trailer and they worked well, slick side up)!!
I also spray silcone on my bunk carpets to make it easier to slide on, "wet the bunks before pulling the boat onto the trailer too!
Joe
Just my 2 cents!
As always take any advice I give with a can of beer er 2!