The well traveled 1979 Starcraft 18' V5 SS

[Decker83]

That deck looks great.. What did you use to countersink the LF rivets?

 

[Watermann]

Thanks guys. I used a 5/8" spade bit to countersink for the rivet heads and used my drill guide set for the right depth.

Any ideas what would work to fill in level over the rivet heads? More 5200 or maybe some epoxy type stuff is what I've been thinking.

 

[GA_Boater]

5200 is rubbery when cured, so it would be a "soft" spot under the vinyl. Peanut butter, since it has filler and cures hard might be better. More sanding unless you can squeegee it smooth for less sanding.

Lay a piece of vinyl over a few of the countersunk rivets and see how it feels. Maybe nothing is needed.

 

[BWR1953]

Lookin' great, WM!

I used PC Products 167779 PC-7 Two-Part Heavy Duty Multipurpose Epoxy Adhesive Paste to fill holes in my Kingfisher deck and it worked very well. It has a consistency about like peanut butter.

 

[Watermann]

I have the vinyl rough cut and laid out and you can't tell where the rivets are but I only plan on filling in the rivet holes in the center that would be trampled on as over time I think there would be a visible round 5/8" indentation in the vinyl. I think the LF rivet head being AL I want something that will adhere to it well enough as to not come dislodged and then be a bump under the vinyl. I have some left over Marine Tex and that stuff sticks to AL better than anything else I've seen. I think I'll try it in the holes and smooth with a bondo spreader so I don't have to sand and then reapply sealer.

 

[appleo]

SO what brand type is the gunwale paint?

 

[Watermann]

SO what brand type is the gunwale paint?

The ranch store by me sells Van Sickle industrial tractor paint, it's the alkyd type like Rustoleum pro. I also use they're hardener and primers too. If you sand down to bare metal then you have to prime the surface with self etching primer before regular primer and then roll the paint.

 

[appleo]

ooh that hardener is pretty nasty

 

[Watermann]

ooh that hardener is pretty nasty

Paying for it is what's nasty, around 2 bucks an ounce.

 

[Watermann]

Still moving forward, vinyl deck covering is glued down, I used 3M 80 vinyl and rubber adhesive. It was spendy but the over sized spray cans were super easy and a clean way to apply that stinky stuff. On the over lap edges, I'm wondering if I should try to glue them to the sides, leave them or trim it back to the deck.

Will be moving onto the adding some things back inside now and can design the elevated decking.

 

[crankbait cowboy]

looks great h20 , real fine work, what did you end up using to level out your countersunk rivet areas before vinyl?

 

[Watermann]

looks great h20 , real fine work, what did you end up using to level out your countersunk rivet areas before vinyl?

Thanks CC I ended up using marine tex I had left over, it seemed to work fine. I got in and stomped around to see if any would let go and then I put the vinyl down.

Now I'm locked in a battle with the monster SW and getting it lined up, everything is good except the drain tube holes...

 

[Patfromny]

On the over lap edges, I'm wondering if I should try to glue them to the sides, leave them or trim it back to the deck.

I would leave the overlap. Gluing to the hull would pull it off the floor if the hull moves differently from the floor and trimming it to the edge leaves less to move around and might poke through from under your side pieces. Maybe take half the over lap off. JMHO.

 

[Watermann]

The 3 bolts are in that hold the SW to the center of the transom, they lined up enough to go in with no drilling. Starboard side drain tube is fine but the port is completely out of whack. I've found that they drilled the holes through the outer skin, transom wood and the SW in one fell swoop.

I don't think they used a drill guide either like I did so the bolts would go through square. The side brackets that bolt through the transom are all way off to where I'll have to drill new holes. What a battle and the drain tube portion of the SW isn't going flush up against the transom either, nothing fits right for some reason.

Look how off the drain tube holes are drilled through, check the difference in distance between the bottom of the SW and the holes. I saw this but thought I would just be able to maybe sand on side of the flange off the tube but I'm going to have to do something about the crooked hole.

 

[classiccat]

It doesn't seem that off to me there Agua. A little nudge-up on the SB side...nudge-down on the port side...then smooth-out any inconsistencies with a bead of 4200? :noidea:

 

[Watermann]

Yeah it's just over 1/4" difference, the port side actually hits the bottom of the SW. As far as nudging goes that is one solid piece of AL, one continuous piece that's the transom cover with the 3 bolts seen, SW bottom and front of SW is all one piece. The sides are riveted to it and it is extremely stout.

 

[Patfromny]

What's with the huge hole in the middle of the SW?

 

[classiccat]

Yeah it's just over 1/4" difference, the port side actually hits the bottom of the SW. As far as nudging goes that is one solid piece of AL, one continuous piece that's the transom cover with the 3 bolts seen, SW bottom and front of SW is all one piece. The sides are riveted to it and it is extremely stout.

you just had to go & get that fancy schmancy V5 now didn't ya!

 

[Patfromny]

you just had to go & get that fancy schmancy V5 now didn't ya!

Now that right there is funny.

 

[Watermann]

What's with the huge hole in the middle of the SW?

For a 8" screw in deck plate so I can access the pumps and fuel filter.