1982 Johnson 90 hp - lower unit magnetic drain screw got some hair thin metals

[ib18]

Q1. Johnson 90 hp - lower unit magnetic drain screw got about 3 hair thin metal pieces - is this ok?
I didn't notice it when I changed my lower unit oil last year.

Q2. I am dragging my feet to tear into the lower unit to fix the lower unit seal and do pressure test. So, I let the clear water out of the lower unit and pumped more oil into the lower unit thinking this hopefully will get me by for 2016. What do you think? I plan to run my 1982 Johnson 90 hp v4 may be 2 hours in April, 3 hours in May, 5 hours in June, 6 hours in July and 6 hours in August, 2 hours in September, 2 hours in October. So 26 hours for 2016. more than half of the 26 hours will be traveling in no wake zone on Potomac river in DC, and trolling at about 3 miles per hour for fish.

 

[emdsapmgr]

That lower drain screw is designed with a magnet on it. Supposed to gather any metal shavings inside the lower unit. When ever you shift that lower, there actually is a somewhat violent collision between the cams on the clutch dog and the gear face. Clutch dog is really not a true "clutch." When this collision takes place a few hundred times each summer, some metal shavings will be worn off either the clutch dog cam or the gear face. It's normal. Just clean the drain plug each oil change. I got by 3 summers with a leaky gearcase on a small hp engine. I checked it periodically and wound up changing it mid-summer in order to get through a whole season without repairing it. Guess it all depends just how much water leaks into the case over time. The marine oil that goes into that case is a special Hypoid type oil. It is made to mix with a small amount of water and still maintain lubricating properties. In your case it's important to know just how bad the leak is, so you may need to check (or change it) a few times through the summer. Running it with water in the gearcase always involves risk. When you say your let the water out-you should really be completely draining it and refill with new. Keep in mind that you have about $400 of critical parts and seals in that case, -if it finally does shoot craps. Plus labor and any tow charges to get home. I'd think you could get it re-sealed for much less than than $400.

 

[racerone]

Apparently this gearcase had water sitting in it for some time.----And I wish those gearcases could be rebuilt with $ 400 on parts.

 

[ib18]

That lower drain screw is designed with a magnet on it. Supposed to gather any metal shavings inside the lower unit. When ever you shift that lower, there actually is a somewhat violent collision between the cams on the clutch dog and the gear face. Clutch dog is really not a true "clutch." When this collision takes place a few hundred times each summer, some metal shavings will be worn off either the clutch dog cam or the gear face. It's normal. Just clean the drain plug each oil change. I got by 3 summers with a leaky gearcase on a small hp engine. I checked it periodically and wound up changing it mid-summer in order to get through a whole season without repairing it. Guess it all depends just how much water leaks into the case over time. The marine oil that goes into that case is a special Hypoid type oil. It is made to mix with a small amount of water and still maintain lubricating properties. In your case it's important to know just how bad the leak is, so you may need to check (or change it) a few times through the summer. Running it with water in the gearcase always involves risk. When you say your let the water out-you should really be completely draining it and refill with new. Keep in mind that you have about $400 of critical parts and seals in that case, -if it finally does shoot craps. Plus labor and any tow charges to get home. I'd think you could get it re-sealed for much less than than $400.

thanks, yes my 2014 tow in to the dock for less than 1 mile in the Cheasapeake bay was $250, The 32 feet big tow boat came from 10 miles away one way to get me. It was covered by my annual Boat US tow membership. 2015 was tow free. Yes, I will keep my eyes out on it in 2016 and maybe tear into it and seal the lower unit during the summer when fishing is slow. Thanks.

 

[ib18]

Apparently this gearcase had water sitting in it for some time.----And I wish those gearcases could be rebuilt with $ 400 on parts.

yes for almost 1 year because I changed the impeller last year and replaced the lower unit oil. It was a quicksilver gear oil 32 oz for motor less than 75 hp but only used about 25 oz, so about 7 oz left.

 

[oldboat1]

On technique -- want to drain the old oil with the upper screw (vent screw) removed to allow the oil to completely drain from the bottom (fill screw). You need the tube that attaches to your pump so you can reach the bottom of the containers. When ready to refill, leave the vent screw out or fit in very loosely. Fill from the bottom until the new oil begins to come out of the vent screw. Tighten that screw, then remove the pump fitting and replace the drain screw. You want to be sure you have good (i.e., new) crush washers for the drain and vent screws. That may be the source of your water intrusion.

 

[jimmbo]

thanks, yes my 2014 tow in to the dock for less than 1 mile in the Cheasapeake bay was $250, The 32 feet big tow boat came from 10 miles away one way to get me. It was covered by my annual Boat US tow membership. 2015 was tow free.

Hmm $250. weren't there any other boaters nearby who could have towed back for free? That what happens where I boat. I've towed, and been towed, not a dime exchanged.

 

[ib18]

No, no boats passed us - so it was very unlucky and unusual.