1984 50 hp Johnson carb issue

[interalian]

Have you ever had the leg off this motor? It's possible the shift rod is out of adjustment.

 

[duffg130]

Have you ever had the leg off this motor? It's possible the shift rod is out of adjustment.

I did have the lower unit off, replaced water pump and impeller. when I put it back on it slid in pretty easy. So to fix would I drop the lower unit, turn the shift rod a little then replace and test? then repeat if necessary?

 

[interalian]

The measurement from the shift hole to the gearcase flange for an '82 is 21-23/32" +/- 1/32". I'm not 100% sure, but yours should be the same. I use the through-bolt's pointy end to measure.

 

[duffg130]

The measurement from the shift hole to the gearcase flange for an '82 is 21-23/32" +/- 1/32". I'm not 100% sure, but yours should be the same. I use the through-bolt's pointy end to measure.

ok. thanks. I will give that a try. I'm on vacation so I might just not use reverse and deal with it rather than tied up time trying to fix. I appreciate all your help. I'll keep u posted.

 

[duffg130]

The measurement from the shift hole to the gearcase flange for an '82 is 21-23/32" +/- 1/32". I'm not 100% sure, but yours should be the same. I use the through-bolt's pointy end to measure.

I'm going to remove the lower unit today and take that measurement. should I leave it in neutral when I remove it? also, I posted another question about a 10 micron filter for my motor, I have the yamaha10 micron mini filter. you think that'll work? thanks

 

[interalian]

Doubt it matters what gear you're in when you pull it - if the rod catches on something on the way out or back in it can move. Once it's back in, you can pop it up or down as needed (turn the prop while you move the rod) for alignment with the clevis.

Filter? 10 microns should be fine for a carb engine - you're not dealing with fuel injectors.

 

[duffg130]

Doubt it matters what gear you're in when you pull it - if the rod catches on something on the way out or back in it can move. Once it's back in, you can pop it up or down as needed (turn the prop while you move the rod) for alignment with the clevis.

Filter? 10 microns should be fine for a carb engine - you're not dealing with fuel injectors.

ok. Thanks I put it in forward and removed it. just want to make sure tje measurement you gave me wasn't for the motor in a specific gear. I can only get a measurement of 21 1/8 before the rod unthreads all together and that measurement is from the lower unit housing it's self. obviously the top of the flange takes away abut an inch and a half from that. as for the filter, I was talking about the water/fuel separator.

 

[duffg130]

I think I got it. I think the measurement should be 20 29/32. Thanks for all your help I have an issue with the ignition to but I'll be posting that next week thanks again.

 

[interalian]

The measurement is in neutral - center of shifter eye to the flange that mates to the leg. The one I referenced came from my '82 service manual for the 50HP model. The BRP site says the gearcase is the same for both years.

 

[duffg130]

The measurement is in neutral - center of shifter eye to the flange that mates to the leg. The one I referenced came from my '82 service manual for the 50HP model. The BRP site says the gearcase is the same for both years.

ok so I should use the original measurement you gave me and measure to the top of that flange? I'll move the rubber boot before measuring. as for the top of the rod, does it matter which way the off set is facing?

 

[interalian]

You don't take the rubber boot off. Measurement is to the top flat part of the gearcase where it mates to the leg. Shift eye faces forward.

 

[duffg130]

You don't take the rubber boot off. Measurement is to the top flat part of the gearcase where it mates to the leg. Shift eye faces forward.

ok. thanks

 

[duffg130]

You don't take the rubber boot off. Measurement is to the top flat part of the gearcase where it mates to the leg. Shift eye faces forward.

So I know have forward and reverse. there is no noise (clunking or clicking) when going into forward but going into reverse there is a clunk. I pretty sure it's all good now. Thanks for walking me through it. I'm buying the Seloc manual from Amazon but I'm sure I'll still be posting on here for advice. I really appreciate all your help.

 

[interalian]

Clunk into gear is OK - clutch dog pops into gear face slots when you shift. Glad you got it.

 

[duffg130]

Clunk into gear is OK - clutch dog pops into gear face slots when you shift. Glad you got it.

UGH!!!! I need help again. Today was the first day I got the boat in the water since I fixed reverse. But now I don't have forward. I am positive I had that Rod measurement correct. I guess my only option is to take off the lower unit and try again? not to give you the sob story but we came down the beach with my son and his friends for his birthday. the plan was to tube and crab. I'm going to try to fix it tonight so we can get out tomorrow. what a day!!!

 

[interalian]

Sorry to hear you're still having trouble. Hate to tear the LU off again but you may have to.

But first I'd say remove the shift cable from the motor with the remote locked in neutral. Center the shift arm to neutral. Now, does the cable align easily with the attaching stud or do you need to move the shift arm to align it?

If misaligned, adjust the trunnion to allow the cable to fit without any movement of the shift arm when the shift arm is centered in neutral.

If aligned, try manually moving the shifter to the full forward position (turn the prop by hand to prevent binding the shift dog). Shift the control box to forward and see if the cable then aligns with the shift lever stud. It should be aligned or try to pull it farther from neutral.

 

[duffg130]

Sorry to hear you're still having trouble. Hate to tear the LU off again but you may have to.

But first I'd say remove the shift cable from the motor with the remote locked in neutral. Center the shift arm to neutral. Now, does the cable align easily with the attaching stud or do you need to move the shift arm to align it?

If misaligned, adjust the trunnion to allow the cable to fit without any movement of the shift arm when the shift arm is centered in neutral.

If aligned, try manually moving the shifter to the full forward position (turn the prop by hand to prevent binding the shift dog). Shift the control box to forward and see if the cable then aligns with the shift lever stud. It should be aligned or try to pull it farther from neutral.

Thanks. I'll try that first. I hope I dont have to take the lower unit off. if I do, I assume I put the shift control box in forward before removing it? I hope it's just the cable adjustment but we'll see.

 

[duffg130]

I think I'm back in business!! I adjusted the cables. so now onto the next. I have cloudy/milky looking water coming out of the prop while it's running. the consistency is the same as water it just has that milky color to it. nonetheless I'm not even ready to deal with that issue......not sure where you live but I owe you a beer or better yet a case. Thanks again for all your help I hope to enjoy the boat today.

 

[interalian]

Cool. Have fun on the lake!

 

[duffg130]

I spoke too soon. I had reverse on the muffs but not in the water. I'm at my wits end with this thing. we were crabbing today and after a while I couldn't throttle up. motor would just bog down. At one point I turned the motor off and it wouldn't start again. Turns over but wont run. had to have someone tow us in. this thing is killing me. I think its time to take it to a mechanic. problem is its too old for them to want to touch. thanks for your help. the saga continues.....