Distributer troubles

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
One question not asked. What engine RPM and boat speed at you getting at WOT with just you on board?
 

putback

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Messages
88
Rule out the easy and basic 1st. 1st check the compression, one bad cylinder and everything else is pointless. The timing must be checked. When you do with the engine off grab hold of the distributor and try to rotate it by hand without lossening the hold down bolt, don't be afraid to give it some force BY HAND, it shouldn't move. Seen many smallblocks that "slipped there timing" a couple degrees in my life. Hows your oil look & smell on the dipstick or under the fill cap? mild fuel smell, to rich on the carb. Oil so thin it runs off the stick and smells like your fuel tank?, stop running it and change the oil or the engine is toast. You probably cranked a lot of raw fuel through it with the wires off one. Foamy or milky oil? Indicates water in oil, head gasket or cracked casting [head or block]. Your spark plug ? White or gray plugs indicate that cylinder is ok. Black or sooty indicate to much fuel or weak ignition. Caked with carbon can indicate oil comsumption, usually piston rings or worn valve guides & or seals. When you're timing it with the light if your timing marks seem to "jump around", don't stay on one hash mark That may indicate a loose timing chain or worn distributor gear. Thats a list of the worst things you can rule out with a compression gauge, a timing light, and observation. Clear the decks on those and you can run down the gremlin. It dosen't knock, tic, rattle, skip or smoke I'm guessing its some simple cheap thing. When you find it make damn sure you tell us. Theres always more to learn. I'm betting on retarded timing, weak low end torque & raw fuel in the exhaust????????????????????
 

BRTate

Seaman
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
50
achris at wot I'm getting 4500 rpm at 45 to 50 mph with conditions. Still runs as always on top end. Putback lots of good advice thanks. Didn't think about checking oil after wire issues. Hoping to do compression check and timing this week if my help is available. Thanks to all for all the advice, hope you can bail me out again. I'm to cheap to take it anywhere I would rather learn and do it myself. Will let y'all know the results, will be a few days. Thanks again
 

NHGuy

Captain
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
3,631
The EFI timing adjusts on the fly. If you have that the timing can move like a loose chain so don't freak if you get that. There is a jumper or tool required to put it base mode before setup, but I haven't had one so keep watching this thread and someone will come on with the information you need.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
achris at wot I'm getting 4500 rpm at ...

For me, that's too low. The engine spec is 4400-4800. With a couple more people on board, you will drop out the bottom of that range. Try a prop with a couple of inches less pitch.... My engine runs 4600rpm (should be 4400-4800) with a 19", but it's a dog. Put a 17" on and it's happy as a clam.

Chris.......
 

BRTate

Seaman
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
50
Well I haven't updated on my project in a while, checked timing-good, compression-good, new plugs new distributer. Gave up and took her to the shop. Tech said I have a stopped up injector, need a rebuild on my throttle body, and another set of plugs(says they are fouled already, didn't run her but once?). New question is he quoted me a rebuild kit for $300. What's the difference between that and the $40 kit from autozone. Is it different because it's marine or what. Gonna get back with him and ask him also.
 

Fun Times

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
9,120
Tech said I have a stopped up injector, need a rebuild on my throttle body, and another set of plugs(says they are fouled already.
Hum that just sounds odd, no fuel flowing out the injector but to much fuel on the spark plugs.:confused: Oil or fuel fouled?

Is the $300 just in parts or parts and labor? While i haven't priced repair kits lately, possibly if it's both then chances are the cost is having someone/business locate the needed parts and do the work for profit vs you finding and doing it for next to nothing. Throttle body repair kits are much harder to come by these days for both the marine and say GM dealerships through a manufacturer standpoint vs finding something aftermarket from an auto store like AutoZone which big name brand dealers might not really take the/much time to even bother searching all around like an older mom and pop type service shop might do for you.
 
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BRTate

Seaman
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
50
Fun times, this was for parts only. There quote for in house repair was close to $800. He said injector was dumping to much fuel and flooding out. Pressure test went from 38 at idle to 30 when opened up. I think those numbers are correct it was an 8 pt change regardless. Throttle bodies are not in my realm of knowledge so I am taking his and yall's word for truth on this one. Any other opinions? I'm about ready to put this up for the winter and work on again next spring. Thanks.
 
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