3.0 Extreme Blow by- leak down

Gator1996

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 29, 2011
Messages
228
I have a 1990 Mercruiser 3.0. I was out on the water on Sunday, boat ran great was out for about three hours or so, No strange noises or anything never even ran at WOT-lots of no wake area and just cruising. I retrieved the boat and pulled the plug and motor oil begins to flow out. I closed the drain and cleaned up the oil real quick and dragged her home. I wound up draining about 2 quarts of oil out of my bilge. You might ask how I did not notice this and I will respond "good question" I feel like an idiot.

I found that the oil was coming out of the breather hose that comes from the valve cover to the spark arrestor. There was no water in the oil so the level had not gone up. The dipstick read nothing after I realized I had the problem. I did some research and found that my symptoms were blow by. The amount of oil leaked is more than I have seen anywhere on line but the situation is the exact same. Got the boat home and yesterday went out and a compression test. All cylinders are between 145 and 155 psi. I started the boat up and rand it up to temp. The blow by did not happen but I didn't give it more throttle seeing as I was on the muffs. From what I have read it presents itself at higher rpms. From there, ran a leakdown test. All cylinders were less than 20% except 2. There is a steady flow of air from the carb when I hook up the hose 0 pressure builds up; This indicates to me that the rings are OK but that an intake valve is stuck open. Now questions.

1. Is the amount of oil that was in my bilge blow by? Seems like a lot from what I've seen in other posts.
2. Is it even possible to have a good compression reading if a valve is stuck open? How am I getting 150 psi on #2 cylinder if it won't hold 50 psi on my air hose?
3. Have I interpreted the results of the leak down properly?
4. Is it possible that motor pumped all that oil from the pan into the valve cover through the intake valve and still ran? Seems like oil would have fouled the carb and stalled?


Looking for any opinions/knowldege on this. I'm going to pull the cover and likely the head today so any thoughts are welcome as soon as you have them.
Thanks a ton guys!
 

savetexomabeaches

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 4, 2013
Messages
420
Did the oil smell like fuel? If so, fuel pump may be going out -- flame arrester could be clogged, causing it to suck up oil as well.
What weight oil are you using?
 
Last edited:

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,234
I have a 1990 Mercruiser 3.0. I was out on the water on Sunday, boat ran great was out for about three hours or so, No strange noises or anything never even ran at WOT-lots of no wake area and just cruising. I retrieved the boat and pulled the plug and motor oil begins to flow out. I closed the drain and cleaned up the oil real quick and dragged her home. I wound up draining about 2 quarts of oil out of my bilge. You might ask how I did not notice this and I will respond "good question" I feel like an idiot.

I found that the oil was coming out of the breather hose that comes from the valve cover to the spark arrestor. There was no water in the oil so the level had not gone up. The dipstick read nothing after I realized I had the problem. I did some research and found that my symptoms were blow by. The amount of oil leaked is more than I have seen anywhere on line but the situation is the exact same. Got the boat home and yesterday went out and a compression test. All cylinders are between 145 and 155 psi. I started the boat up and rand it up to temp. The blow by did not happen but I didn't give it more throttle seeing as I was on the muffs. From what I have read it presents itself at higher rpms. From there, ran a leakdown test. All cylinders were less than 20% except 2. There is a steady flow of air from the carb when I hook up the hose 0 pressure builds up; This indicates to me that the rings are OK but that an intake valve is stuck open. Now questions.

1. Is the amount of oil that was in my bilge blow by? Seems like a lot from what I've seen in other posts.
2. Is it even possible to have a good compression reading if a valve is stuck open? How am I getting 150 psi on #2 cylinder if it won't hold 50 psi on my air hose?
3. Have I interpreted the results of the leak down properly?
4. Is it possible that motor pumped all that oil from the pan into the valve cover through the intake valve and still ran? Seems like oil would have fouled the carb and stalled?


Looking for any opinions/knowldege on this. I'm going to pull the cover and likely the head today so any thoughts are welcome as soon as you have them.
Thanks a ton guys!

You have to have the valves closed for a leak down test. Open valve would have 150 psi on compression test and near nothing on leak down. You have to rotate the crank to a point of both valves closed
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
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Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,545
With that much oil in the bilge, and IF it is blow by, then you need to redo the compression test. Your not going to see 150 psi on a cylinder with that kind of blow by. Suggest looking a bit closer as to where the oil is coming from. Maybe your oil sender cracked or something else and was causing the issue
 

Gator1996

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 29, 2011
Messages
228
Thanks for the input guys. I'm using 25-40 mercruiser oil, I'm open to suggestions if there is something better. Spark arrestor was in need of a cleaning. I have done this and can't replicate the problem on the muffs but I need the motor under load to verify. Won't take it out and risk a spill until I have dug farther so that may very well be my problem.

I rotated each cylinder to the top of the compression stroke. So both valves should be closed, so when I heard air flow from carb, I assumed intake was open...more on this.

I think that I may have more than one issue and the breather/valve cover is just one of them and I think you're totally right Dodge. I pulled the valve cover today, and all the bolts were barely hand tight. On top of that one bolt was missing. The missing bolt is just below the breather, which would explain the presence of oil there. The kicker is that I found what I thought was little spot of rust on my oil filter case that was actually a small hole, I left towels in bilge overnight to see if I could find a leak and there it was this afternoon. So I am hoping some combination of those is my oil issue.

Back to the leak down, I believe my head gasket is blown between 1 and 2 cylinders. When 2 is at TDC of compression, cylinder one is intake so I think the air is escaping out the #1 intake that is open through the break in the gasket. I am thinking this because when I pulled the cover, the #2 intake valve is working just as expected.

So, new question. Is it possible to have a blown head gasket and still pull good compression numbers from all four cylinders? The head will come off tomorrow or Thursday and the truth will be known!! Thanks again guys hoping for good news here.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
50,234
I have never had a blown head gasket with good compression numbers
 

Alumarine

Captain
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
3,738
Your type of oil is fine.
If you think you have a hole in your oil filter, change it. It will leak like crazy when operated.
Tighten valve cover bolts (not to tight), maybe use blue loctite. The middle one on the port side with the hose clamp on it is longer than the others.
Test boat on water and see if oil leaks.
 
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