Trying to prevent a problem before it happens. Recommendations appreciated.

670hoth

Cadet
Joined
Aug 10, 2016
Messages
26
I bought a 2004 boat with a Volvo Penta 4.3 GL with what was described as an overheating at speed problem. All of the basic troubleshooting of water flow had been done by a boat mechanic and the next step was to tear the engine down. The owner had already replaced the engine once due to a winter freeze up in crack in block and was having this problem with the second motor in and decided to pull the plug and sell the boat as is.

I pulled the heads and found rusty cylinders, valves, etc in the number 2 and 4 cylinders. I honed the cylinders and they cleaned up a bit but there was quite a bit of pitting and some lines that I assumed were water lines. I then noticed that the brass freeze plug right between those cylinders was pushed out almost completely. Based on this I assume that what I thought were water corrosion lines may be cracks in the cylinder wall. I was also told they never got the boat to run right with this second engine. This engine had a 4-barrel carburetor while the original was a 2 Barrel. The first engine failed clearly from a freeze up in the winter with a crack in the lifter valley. I was given this original Engine with the boat so I bought a used short block and put the original heads and intake and two barrel carb on it and installed it.

I cleaned and inspected the manifolds and risers and they look okay. There are rust marks inside the ports from the two soon as it had water but it's heavier where the end of the engine and lighter as it goes away kind of like the water was blowing out through them as opposed to leaking from a crack down into the cylinders unfortunately I don't have anyone around to pressure test manifolds and risers.

I guess my question is, has anyone ever actually seen cracks inside a cylinder wall caused by a freeze up? I still can't be sure if they are cracked or just rusty water marks in the water enter the cylinders. Unit through the crack but some other way.

I just need to put on the second Riser and then the engine is ready to start and run but I am Leery and don't want to ruin this engine. Thoughts and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
 

muc

"Retired" Association of Marine Technicians...
Joined
Jul 7, 2004
Messages
2,170
Very very rare to see freeze cracked cylinder walls. Never seen them on a 4.3
If you have rust trails in the exhaust manifolds, there is a problem. Something is cracked or the gasket is bad.
My recommendation is to use Volvo Penta gaskets and follow the instructions included with them to the LETTER. That area is one of the few weak points on Volvo products.
 

CV16

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
445
I just replaced my riser gaskets and was told not to follow the instructions to a t. Go to the adults only section and Volvo had a bulletin about now using a copper gasket sealer. The riser was where I was getting water in my motor.
 

670hoth

Cadet
Joined
Aug 10, 2016
Messages
26
I did buy the Volvo gaskets and installed the side that did not have the problem. I have not installed the other side yet. The gaskets that were on there were definitely not metal and they came off in little pieces. I cannot say for sure if I think they were leaking or not. The very thin rust coloration in the manifold does not go all the way up to the rise of surface. Also, the engine head gasket looked perfect so it was not a head gasket problem. Overall, the manifolds and risers look quite good but the gasket surfaces were a bit rough. I sanded them down with a sanding block quite a bit. I would like to take a little bit more off to make the ceiling surfaces cleaner and wider but the Volvo instructions say not to take off very much at all. I really don't understand why it's okay to take off up to 9/1000th which is what I think the instructions say but not day 20/1000the if needed to make the surface batter. Frankly, I have no way to know how much I've actually taken off.
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,588
I just replaced my riser gaskets and was told not to follow the instructions to a t. Go to the adults only section and Volvo had a bulletin about now using a copper gasket sealer. The riser was where I was getting water in my motor.
Volvo revises those instructions all the time. Buy Volvo gaskets and follow the instructions that come with them.
 

CV16

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
445
I got Volvo gaskets from Volvopentastore.com and the instructions specifically stated not to use any sealer. I wish I didn't toss out the instructions.
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,588
I got Volvo gaskets from Volvopentastore.com and the instructions specifically stated not to use any sealer. I wish I didn't toss out the instructions.
Then I wouldn't use sealer!
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,588
Very important to torque the bolts to spec.....with a torque wrench!!!!
 

CV16

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
445
I'm not trying to lead anybody down the wrong path here. I treat anything DonS posted or felt strong enough about to put in the Adults only section like it's gospel. They should change the name to The Book of DonS!
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,588
Like I said, they change the gaskets all the time and the instructions all the time. Using gasket sealer on gaskets which came out with instructions after a service bulletin is up to you.

BTW, the link in #8 is a dead link at least when I try to click it.
 
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