Springbok rebuild

[seanak 43]

All transom pieces removed. Doesn't look like anything that can be used as a template. Strange setup, the bottom piece is pressure treated 2x4, the middle is plywood (may even be marine ply) and the top is also ply as noted above. the spashwell drains should have been at the bottom of the middle piece, they were never drilled. the top was just scabbed on as an afterthought for the long shaft motor.

 

[seanak 43]

The transom didn't extend all the way to the deck, I think it should have for strength and it will after the rebuild. Also, nothing extended higher than the aluminum channel that formed the transom cap. I think that the transom wood should extend all the way from the deck to just under the gunwales with a cutout at the correct height far the motor. The gunwales extend back to the transom skin and are riveted with an angle plate. It should be easy enough to trim them forward 1 1/2 inches to accommodate the transom core and re-rivet the plates.

 

[seanak 43]

Some questions:
Do I need to extend the outer skin to the height of the new transom core?
Also the wooden core will be exposed inside the splashwell, should I skin that as well?
If I should extend the skins, how should it be attached and sealed?
I would love to reuse the transom cap, it was rivetted to the outside skin and has a channel for both the inside and outside skin. How would I go about straightening and re-bending to fit the new profile?

 

[seanak 43]

Nice Gantry!!! Posting this for future reference...I got this at HarborFreight for $40 bucks on sale. worked great lifting my 85 hp Johnson Outboard. Screwed a 8" lag eye bolt into the garage Door Header.

Gantry worked like a charm, I don't have a garage. Princess Auto, Canada's answer to Harbor Freight, has a 1 1/2 ton chain puller on sale for $149 cdn. I would love to have one but wouldn't use it enough to justify the price.

 

[gm280]

Gantry worked like a charm, I don't have a garage. Princess Auto, Canada's answer to Harbor Freight, has a 1 1/2 ton chain puller on sale for $149 cdn. I would love to have one but wouldn't use it enough to justify the price.

You certainly don't need a chain host. Do they sell a simple cable come-a-long? If so that will work perfectly and cost about $20 dollars or so.



I used something like this and had no problems what so ever. JMHO

 

[seanak 43]

You certainly don't need a chain host. Do they sell a simple cable come-a-long? If so that will work perfectly and cost about $20 dollars or so.



I used something like this and had no problems what so ever. JMHO

Yup, exactly what I used, worked great. Engraved on the tool it says " Do not use for Vertical Lift". I was at less the 10% of its capacity so didn't worry. Don't think I would try to lift a ton with it. The chain come-a-longs are nice though.

 

[gm280]

Yup, exactly what I used, worked great. Engraved on the tool it says " Do not use for Vertical Lift". I was at less the 10% of its capacity so didn't worry. Don't think I would try to lift a ton with it. The chain come-a-longs are nice though.

Yes ,I did read that as well. But a 4 ton double pull come-a-long setup for a single line pull still has a 2 ton capability. And since I was lifting a hull that maybe is 600 pounds total weight, and I was only lifting the bow section with that setup (the transom was being lifted via an engine host). I really wasn't worried about it at all. And of course I was not getting under it at anyway either. So a mere $20 dollar come-a-long did it without any effort. JMHO

 

[seanak 43]

It's been a while since my last post but some progress has been made. Transom laminated, cut and sealed with spar urethane. and set in place for a trial fit. New transom is now full height from deck to gunwales, should be much stronger than original. One of the problems before was the P/O changed from a short to a long shaft outboard with a patched extension and the motor was mounted too low.. I cut the new transom to 19 inches, I will use this as a starting point and can raise the motor with the adjustment holes on the mount to where it needs to be. I also fabricated a new outer skin with a sheet of 1/8 aluminum plate for strength, cover unused holes, and looks. This will be glued and bolted to original skin and sealed with 5200. Another plate will be used on the inside of the transom. I will have to modify the splashwell somewhat because it attatched to the outer skin except in the centre where there was a wooden core.

 

[seanak 43]

The seam on the bottom port side is leaking. I,ll hit this with gluvit on the inside, as well when I run a bead of 5200 around the new/old skin seam I will try to squeeze some in there.

 

[Wolfe64]

Nice looking boat Seanak, I'm getting to love these aluminum boats more and more.
You have lots of work ahead of you but it will be worth it in the end
Mark

 

[seanak 43]

Nothing exciting to show. Hours of cleaning floor of the boat, with nylon brushes on a drill, around rivets and seams to prepare for Gluvit.Wore out my 35 year old Craftsman drill, replaced it with a DeWalt, if it lasts as long it will be the last one I ever buy. Boat is off the trailer and flipped, easy one man job on a 14 footer stripped to the bare hull. Trailer stripped and sanded ready for paint. Trailer is a tilt trailer with bunks and keel rollers. I plan to keep the same basic setup with a few adjustments including adding guide rollers or bunks to make one man loading easier. All parts removed. Bolts were all fine thread with steel locking nuts, tough to the end. After I removed about a quarter of them with some skinned knuckles and a few choice words I realized I have an impact wrench. The rest came off easy. Sanded the frame with a random action sander and 100 grit to remove rust and loose paint to prep for primer. Frame is a channel so I used a nylon brush on a drill to get the inside. Oh the 70's. Uncovered what I believe is the original paint, Avocado Green.I bet it matched his fridge. The original owner no doubt turned some heads on the road with a green trailer and a bright orange boat.