Removing Alpha One outdrive

[bicklebok]

I have run into a little snag trying to remove the alpha one outdrive to do some winter maintenance. I placed it in forward gear, disconnected the hydraulic cylinders and removed the 6 bolts holding the outdrive on. You can see in the picture this is as far as it would come out.

Before I decide to get real rough with it I thought it would be wise to get some advice first. In the position you see it is in now in the picture, if I turn the prop shaft it spins freely both ways if that tells you anything. Could it be possible its actually not in gear? Or what else could be holding it on? Any tips from here are greatly appreciated!

Thank you guys.

 

[Alumarine]

Are you sure it's in gear?
I have a habit of insticinctiveley pushing in the neutral start button before shifting it into forward when it's not running.

On the bottom of the drive at the stern is a SS u shaped head that a brass shoe fits into. These should be pointing fore and aft.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... At that point, the shift linkage is disengaged, the only thing still sorta connected is the input shaft, through the gimbel bearin',....

Pull Harder,.....

 

[bicklebok]

Are you sure it's in gear?
I have a habit of insticinctiveley pushing in the neutral start button before shifting it into forward when it's not running.

On the bottom of the drive at the stern is a SS u shaped head that a brass shoe fits into. These should be pointing fore and aft.

Im wondering if I could have accidentally pushed in the neutral button like you said. I dont understand your last sentence. Can you explain again? Can you see that SS piece in the photo I attached?

What should I do to get back on track? Push the outdrive back on and verify its in gear? Or can I work with it in the position its in now?

Thanks marc and bondo!

 

[Rick Stephens]

Once you are 2.5 inches out with the drive, the shift linkage is no longer even touching. Whether the drive went out of gear or not at that point is irrelevant. The only thing left to be hung is either the speedometer hose connection, which you should have disconnected when the drive was in the elevated position before unbolting. Or the drive shaft itself is hung up in the gimbal bearing. If there is rust or too much grease on the drive shaft o-rings it can keep the shaft from sliding through. In that case you need to apply more force.

 

[tpenfield]

Lift it up a bit and pull . . .

 

[bicklebok]

Once you are 2.5 inches out with the drive, the shift linkage is no longer even touching. Whether the drive went out of gear or not at that point is irrelevant. The only thing left to be hung is either the speedometer hose connection, which you should have disconnected when the drive was in the elevated position before unbolting. Or the drive shaft itself is hung up in the gimbal bearing. If there is rust or too much grease on the drive shaft o-rings it can keep the shaft from sliding through. In that case you need to apply more force.

I did not disconnect the speedometer. I guess I can look around and see if it's still connected.
Also, I can see inside the housing(not sure of the proper term) a little and it looks like I can see rust.

So it's ok to get rough with it to get it to come loose?

 

[Scott06]

Yes if the speedo cable is disconnected and the drive is verified in forward, you either have corrosion on the drive shaft that won't let the Shaft come so through the gimbal bearing. carefully use a pry bar could have the gimbal bearing coming out with the drive shaft hence the resistance

 

[bicklebok]

No Title

Well, it finally came loose. Thanks for the help!

Here are some pics. Im curious about that piece of wire that Im guessing is on the shift linkage. Is that something thats been rigged?

I guess now my next step is to look for a write up on how to change out all these parts-gimble bearing, etc.

Thank you for the help guys! Any comments on what you see in the pics are welcome because I dont yet know what Im looking at. But I see rust and I know thats not good.

Sorry, pics posted sideways but I dont think it matters for this.

 

[Bt Doctur]

pic 1 normal, safety wire for the lock screw
pic2 the alum ring does not normally get removed with the drive, that could explain the water in the bellow
pic 3 signs of water in the bellow

 

[Jmunk]

As stated earlier the ring for the bellow might have come loose and allowed water intrusion or the bellow has a crack or tear. Either way you need to pull gimbal bearing and install new unit, install new bellows or replace retainer ring if bellows look good, also u-joints may need replaced as well.

Unless the bellows are fresh I'd replace them all since your replacing other parts. No point in putting money into a a new gimbal bearing at the minimum only to have to do it again if water finds its way in due to bellow.

FYI......I swapped out my gimbal bearing just before it turned cold. I ended up using a large socket to drive new one in. If you need to know what size I used PM me and I'll look in the garage. A three jaw puller rented from an auto parts store worked great to remove old bearing.

Good luck

 

[bicklebok]

No Title

I am reviving my old thread because I have started back working on the boat again. I think you guys are right-the retaining ring was the source of the leak. Surprisingly, the gimble bearing seems to be in good shape as well as the u joints once I cleaned them up. They both feel solid as well with no grinding or slack. I may replace them anyway.

I havent had a chance to check the bellows yet.

But I am a little confused on something. Apparently the retaining ring holds the u joint bellow in place correct? What about the rubber seal that you see in the photo thats wrapped around the retaining ring? Where does it go during the reinstall? And what would I use marine adhesive on during the reinstall?

Thanks everyone!

 

[bicklebok]

Well I tried to post an update but something hung up on the computer and I lost it. Im reviving the thread because I started back working on the boat. I think you guys are right about the source of the leak-the retaining ring.

I have a couple of questions please that Im confused about. The retaining ring holds the u joint bellow in place correct? What about the rubber seal in the photo? Where does it go? And what do I use marine adhesive on during the reinstall? Thanks guys!

 

[bicklebok]

Well I tried to post an update but something hung up on the computer and I lost it. Im reviving the thread because I started back working on the boat. I think you guys are right about the source of the leak-the retaining ring.

I have a couple of questions please that Im confused about. The retaining ring holds the u joint bellow in place correct? What about the rubber seal in the photo?(Will try to upload seperately since Im having problems) Where does it go? And what do I use marine adhesive on during the reinstall? Thanks guys!

 

[Hoosmatroos]

I don't recognize that rubber ring. Normally it doesn't belong there as far as I know.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I did the bellows on my Gen 2 last winter and I don't recall seeing a rubber ring like you show.

 

[flipbro]

That rubber ring gets glued inside the gimble housing. It's there to help seal out water if your gasket fails. Do u have a manual? Some guys just use grease to hold them in place also. I glue mine.

 

[bicklebok]

Just to refresh everyone's memory, I had a hard time removing the outdrive. When I finally got it to break loose, the retainer ring and that rubber seal came off with the outdrive. Something was either installed wrong or glued wrong. So the rubber seal goes in right after the retaining ring on a reinstall?

And thanks for the help guys!

 

[flipbro]

You need to check the alignment be4 reinstall. Do u own the alignment tool? Alignment could be off that's why drive was hard to remove.

 

[tank1949]

I did the bellows on my Gen 2 last winter and I don't recall seeing a rubber ring like you show.

Is it Gen 1 or Gen II? Gen 1 has big hose clamps. Something doesn't look right. Who worked on it last? Someone may have installed the wrong bellows?