Timing Question

[Dukedog]

both carb and efi's after 2000 have ecm's... then around 2004 they "both" went to alternator type system including tha carb... both still had ecm and crank sensor... ecm and ecu (efi only) are completely different parts......

 

[stump1234]

Hey can I disconnect the cdi except for number one cylinder and of course remove the 5 spark plugs to do the cranking to test the base and wot with trying to ground 5 coils

 

[achris]

There is no 'base timing'.... only WOT.

 

[stump1234]

I can adjust the primary pickup screw and thats what I was turning to raise and lower the rpm and I did not touch the wot screw.. she runs at 1500 rpms so I'm trying to bring that down...I did notice when I turned the primary screw and manually puledl down the throttle linkage it would bog down like it was getting to much air and not enough fuel.. so when I turned the prinary screw a little bit the throttle linkage really responded High rpms... So chris what should I do

 

[stump1234]

and of course the thermo valve was stuck from sitting and now I know that works..but by turning the primary pickup screw am I changing the timing?

 

[achris]

and of course the thermo valve was stuck from sitting and now I know that works..but by turning the primary pickup screw am I changing the timing?

Yes, that how you adjust the idle speed.

If it's bogging and stalling when you try to lower the idle speed, your problem is elsewhere, not the timing. Check the compressions, check that the reeds aren't hanging open (put your hand in front of the carb and see if you feel any 'blow back'). Check the fuel system (tank, lines, pump), and them check the carbs. Also check that the enricher isn't stuck open... The enricher is the valve that allows extra fuel into the engine for cold starts. It used to be the choke shutters across the front of the carbs, now it's a solenoid type valve....

Have you check the cooling system poppet valve?

Chris.........

 

[stump1234]

Oh I know all about the choke or enricher valve when I got the boat he lost the key and put a new ignition switch in of course it wasn't wired in properly so that works great turn key and push to choke the engine .. i started it today and put the timing light on it and it was around 0 and as I revved it up it moved a little.I almost have it running good at idle it's about 1000 rpm my tach does work so im using a hand held meter that I use on the mowers.. I turned the primary pickup screw a little to not have that flat spot when i push on the carb linkage and than turn the idle screw to bring it to idle.. Its almost there some times it s to low and dies..the plugs are new also and I will do a compression check tomorrow.. I replaced the fuel gauge in the tank and the suction line anti siphon valve was clogged almost shut.. the manufacturer used an aluminum valve and stainless steel fitting causing bimetallic corrosion.. I did know it had reed valves, that's an easy check to do..I did put thermostats in there were none installed.. he told me that the engine does run hot it runs 175 at idle right now. I replaced the water pump also and I am getting water out of the tell tale where as before I wasn't. where are the poppets located are they serviceable or just replace them.. II am using a 5 gallon gas can in the boat with a new primer valve to provide fuel to the carbs.

 

[achris]

What about the fuel pump diaphrams, when were they last changed (should be done annually)?

Chris......

 

[stump1234]

I did get the fuel pump kit in and didn't replace them yet the primer bulb is firm when I pump it and when it starts to die I was pumping the bulb to see if that would change the rpm and show if the diaphragms was leaking by. but your right I change it..

 

[stump1234]

Hey chris on the fuel rebuild kit it comes with two plastic check valves and two rubber ones . when I took it apart it had one plastic check valve on each valve.. what are the rubber ones for?

 

[stump1234]

the manual is showing just the plastic check valve also

 

[achris]

What is the kit part number?

 

[stump1234]

well chris I believe you your right on the mark with the fuel pump she is idling now pretty good now.... now for the tach I'm not getting a signal to the gray wire.the battery is getting charged I have a midtronics battery to test the battery,,, is it the rectifier? tfuel pump kit is 18-7817 I decided to just use the white plastic check valves it seems to be running pretty good now at idle now

 

[achris]

Yes, the tacho feed is from the recifier.

 

[achris]

You have 2 regulators on that engine (mounted on the starboard side, on a mounting plate), so swap the grey wire from the regulator it's currently on, to the other one.... If that doesn't work, try tying the tacho feed wire into one of the yellow wires running into one of the regulators.

Chris......

 

[stump1234]

where are the cooling system poppet valve located? I want to bring down the cooling temp. I thinks its to high

 

[stump1234]

ok i will look at switching the grey wire tomorrow. Thank you so much for the help

 

[achris]

where are the cooling system poppet valve located? I want to bring down the cooling temp. I thinks its to high

Lower section of the engine block, port side (see picture below)

The way the system is designed to work is that the engine temp is thermostat controlled at lower engine speeds (up to about 2000rpm), and it will run quite high at those speeds (to reduce the likelihood of cold fouling spark plugs) and once the water pressure from the water pump reaches the spring pressure of the poppet, it opens and allows the engine to be cooled 'full flow', pulling the temp down at higher speeds.

Chris......

 

[stump1234]

I read a lot of the old post about this problem of overheating and it seems to be a hard area to correct.. thanks for the picure

 

[achris]

I read a lot of the old post about this problem of overheating and it seems to be a hard area to correct.. thanks for the picure

Just don't get 'running hot' confused with 'overheating'. These engines are design to 'run hot' at low speed. Basically, if the overheat alarm isn't coming on, it's not overheating.

Chris.....