Timing Question

stump1234

Seaman
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Dec 23, 2016
Messages
58
Hey chris thank you so much for helping me, December 15 I had heart surgery to remove a tumor around my heart and it was cancer so this project with this boat is keeping my mind off of things and I want to take this boat out to some old stomping grounds out in the gulf. where I once fished. I want to take my girl out to my wreck where she can catch a big fish not these pin fish we catch here on shore..anyway thank you so much for helping me with this boat...
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468

Yep, that's the plate. Near the top, starboard side should be the pipe plug.


Probably the WORST connector to use on a boat, and even worse in an engine. Fixed lord knows how many equipement failures by replacing those nasty bits of rubbish.... With vibration the wires inside them shake loose and cause all manner of intermittent faults. I would cut, solder, dope (liquid neoprene) and heat shrink..... Or use a water resistant 2-into-1 crimp...

I was working in the Gulf out from New Orleans... Up until about a year ago.... Nice places...

Chris.........
 

stump1234

Seaman
Joined
Dec 23, 2016
Messages
58
so bye cutting the yellow wire in two i would solder my connector in.what about the other end not being connected to anything. wont that disable the other side of the wire/ /Im not sure what that yellow wire provides power too.. .
 

stump1234

Seaman
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Dec 23, 2016
Messages
58
I see the plugs they are just under the thermostat housing. each head has one.. and I will cut the yellow wire in half strip the ends twist the ends together solder and put a butt connector in and then crimp a piece of wire with the bullet end on it with heat shrink to connect to the grey wire
 

stump1234

Seaman
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Dec 23, 2016
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No Title

here I soldered the three lines together and heat shrunk
 

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achris

More fish than mountain goat
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here I soldered the three lines together and heat shrunk

Perfect.

How that all works is that the 2 yellow wires are each end of a few coils under the flywheel. The flywheel has magnets in it, and as they pass the coils it induces an AC current. This current is converted to DC (by use of a rectifier) and feed to the battery. The early outboards only had an output of about 6 to 9 amps, but the later ones, including yours, is about 20 amps (for each set of coils, you have 2). With the higher current the battery would be over-charged very quickly. Even with the lower current is was not unusual to see batteries at 17 or more volts. Normal automotive batteries couldn't cope and often boiled dry and could explode, so that's why we only use proper marine batteries which are designed to cope with being overcharged (and the fact that the plates are properly supported to cope with the 'rough ride')...
Anyway, the higher current output called for voltage regulators to be used. In cars, the voltage is controlled by the current fed to the rotor in the alternator (that's the bit that is the equivalent of the flywheel magents), but as the field strength of the magnets in the outboard can't be varied, and so the output can't be reduced as the battery approaches full charge, the excess current is dumped off as heat. Which is why those regulators get very hot during operations. Some models even have the regulator/s bolted directly to the engine block so the heat is pulled off into the cooling water. The regulated output is on the red wire, which feeds directly to the battery.

For the tacho, the early systems just was one of the output wires as the feed for the tacho, and the tachos has an input marked '12 pole', which is the number of pulses per revolution from the AC side of the alternator output. For some reason the later engines included a tacho output from the regulator (the grey wire) which came from some fancy bit of circuitry in the regulator. When they inevitably fail, we just go back to the old tried and tested tacho feed, the alternator AC output, one of the yellow wires.

Cheers,

Chris........
 
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stump1234

Seaman
Joined
Dec 23, 2016
Messages
58
Thanks chris and happy new year, I now have power up to the tach but she still does not work and recommendation on who I can send it out to..
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
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Not sure anyone fixes tachos (except me :facepalm:)... Usually just toss them in the trash and buy a new one. Not expensive. What is the gauge series? (Commodore, Admiral, QSI, Flagship, etc) Post a photo if you're not sure.

Just check it has 12 volts and ground before condeming it...

Chris.....
 

stump1234

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Dec 23, 2016
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No Title

I will look in the back for more information on manufacturer, of course its a angler boat 2004
 

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stump1234

Seaman
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Dec 23, 2016
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Hey chris my throttle is real hard to push both forward and reverse so I think I need to change out the throttle cable.. what brand and length do I need for this 2004 204 fx angler
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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Messages
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I would disconnect the cable at the engine end and see if it's still stiff. If it is, look on the cable and find the length. The brand will depend on the brand of control you have. Most of the time a Merc engine will have a Merc control, but not always. Sometimes it may be a brand the boat builder pre-rigs the boat with. Morse Teleflex, etc.... And the length is depended on how the controls are set up oon the boat. The length should be stamped on the control cable somewhere....

Chris.......
 

stump1234

Seaman
Joined
Dec 23, 2016
Messages
58
good advice should I also disconnect at throttle to see if the throttle lever is stiff..
 

stump1234

Seaman
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Dec 23, 2016
Messages
58
I see outok silver and 16ft feb 004 the shifting cable is stiff. the gas throttle is smooth. I will disconnect the shift cable and see if its the cable
 
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