First boat 1969 starchief restoration.

Watermann

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For a livewell you need a pump then not just a fitting, the pump has a long shank that passes through the hull that you can either cut to fit or push the pump forward out from under the transom. I put mine in the open area next to the bilge drain plug, plenty of room under the transom wood and you just have the aluminum to bore through. Also get a strainer so gunk doesn't foul the pump impeller.

Pic of what my livewell pump intake and drain looks like.
IMAG2708.jpg
 
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Catfishcabin

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For a livewell you need a pump then not just a fitting, the pump has a long shank that passes through the hull that you can either cut to fit or push the pump forward out from under the transom. I put mine in the open area next to the bilge drain plug, plenty of room under the transom wood and you just have the aluminum to bore through. Also get a strainer so gunk doesn't foul the pump impeller.

Pic of what my livewell pump intake and drain looks like.
IMAG2708.jpg

Yeah I already got it all planned out I ordered a 12-volt self-priming pump to three-way valve and instead of using an exterior strainer I will be using a irrigation inline filter prior to the pump. I went ahead and ordered a thru hull fitting that has extended threads in case I decide to go through the transom wood. So I should be good to drill a hole next to the drain plug and use some 3M 4000 or 5200 to seal everything? The plan is one pump using the to 3-way valves will be able to fill the live well drain the live well and recirculate the live well
 

Watermann

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Okay sounds like you got this then.

I don't use 4200 as it costs more than twice what 5200 does and for some reason people think 5200 is permanent which means it can never be removed. That's utter BS it comes off aluminum and I've pulled stuff apart before. Makes me think they've never used it before. Once you open the 5200 put a screw in the hole, tape it off to seal it up and store it in the fridge and it will last for a few years that way without being curing.
 

Catfishcabin

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Okay sounds like you got this then.

I don't use 4200 as it costs more than twice what 5200 does and for some reason people think 5200 is permanent which means it can never be removed. That's utter BS it comes off aluminum and I've pulled stuff apart before. Makes me think they've never used it before. Once you open the 5200 put a screw in the hole, tape it off to seal it up and store it in the fridge and it will last for a few years that way without being curing.

I was about to ask how to keep it from cureing
 

BajaRon

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Aug 23, 2015
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I put a 40 gallon live well on my Starcheif...with a thru hull strainer, and a drain out the back of the transom. It works...sweet. I will shoot pictures later today.

I noticed your partner had a 40 gallon live well on his pontoon, plus a bunch of nets next to the live well. Throw nets?

Waterman suggested a thru hull strainer...he is spot on, put it on the port side, on the bottom, and make sure you miss the trailer bunks.

If you use a three way valve, you can use the pump for a wash down also. Hope this helps, Ron
 

Catfishcabin

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I put a 40 gallon live well on my Starcheif...with a thru hull strainer, and a drain out the back of the transom. It works...sweet. I will shoot pictures later today.

I noticed your partner had a 40 gallon live well on his pontoon, plus a bunch of nets next to the live well. Throw nets?

Waterman suggested a thru hull strainer...he is spot on, put it on the port side, on the bottom, and make sure you miss the trailer bunks.

If you use a three way valve, you can use the pump for a wash down also. Hope this helps, Ron

The Nets are used to keep the larger fish alive. We place to fish in the net and sink it down that way it's alive and well in the morning for weigh in and to be tagged and release
 

Catfishcabin

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No Title

Lost fwd gear, 90% sure its the lower shift cable. Anything else I need to order?
 

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Watermann

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I don't see a shift cable bellow that should come with the cable kit. The Sierra & OEM Merc kits come with everything you need to do the job including the cable bellows and outdrive gaskets.

You should also use bellows adhesive on the cable bellows and ditch that stupid clamp they supply and put 2 stout zip ties on instead... stagger the zip tie buckles and get the hose type that have the curved buckle if you can find them.

18-2603_big.jpg
 
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Catfishcabin

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The reason I was going with SEI is because I don't have a MerCruiser sterndrive I have an S e 106
 

Watermann

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SEI is an after market replacement Mercruiser outdrive not a different model in and of themselves. Doesn't your gasket kit also say for Mercruiser as well?
 

Furrylittleotter

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Cool 🚣 Boat! I wouldn't restore anything. Just fish the paint off that sucka! I'd make damn sure your cable isn't just out of adjustment before replacing. It's a pain to replace. I just learned how... here's a vid. Not sure if it will help. Neil.

https://youtu.be/-s_tgevX2aI
 

Catfishcabin

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SEI is an after market replacement Mercruiser outdrive not a different model in and of themselves. Doesn't your gasket kit also say for Mercruiser as well?

Well I got it all tore open last night and 3 inches of the shift cable are worn out which I believe was causing the cable to fold instead of pushing the cable out when I was putting it in forward gear it would go in reverse because that pulls the cable and the wore out section wasn't affecting that. I think temporarily I'm just going to replace the cable not the Bellows and the sleeve this time I will probably do that in a couple weeks when I do the Impaler
 

Watermann

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Too bad whoever replaced the outdrive didn't think to replace the lower shift cable at the same time.

I was talking about replacing the shift bellows / boot. The kit you posted didn't show one in the pic. Those little buggers are tough to slide on the cable, you have to lube it up good to get in to go.
 

Catfishcabin

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Too bad whoever replaced the outdrive didn't think to replace the lower shift cable at the same time.

I was talking about replacing the shift bellows / boot. The kit you posted didn't show one in the pic. Those little buggers are tough to slide on the cable, you have to lube it up good to get in to go.

It is possible that the shift cable was replaced when the outdrive was installed that was back in 1998 but it needs to be replaced again no big deal. Next weekend I will probably do the impeller and then hopefully I should be good to get through this season
 

Furrylittleotter

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Yea yea, just the impeller. That was my plan too. Bellows, cable, gimbal bearing, bellhousing sodablast and restore, prime, paint, special tools, gear lube elbow, gear lube, gaskets, seals, grease, prop nut and retainer, anode set, ... just the impeller. Yea.
 

Catfishcabin

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Someone fortunately come to find out my boat has the old style lower shift cable and I don't have the tools nor the skill to upgrade to the new style and of course a new style cable does not fit inside of the old style sleeve so to take the boat out this weekend I had to get creative I ended up using 16 gauge galvanized wire and it worked for this trip but it ended up folding over towards the end of the trip. I did find the correct part numbers for the inner shift cable that I need to replace so it is now on order
 

Alumarine

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Feb 22, 2005
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Someone fortunately come to find out my boat has the old style lower shift cable and I don't have the tools nor the skill to upgrade to the new style and of course a new style cable does not fit inside of the old style sleeve so to take the boat out this weekend I had to get creative I ended up using 16 gauge galvanized wire and it worked for this trip but it ended up folding over towards the end of the trip. I did find the correct part numbers for the inner shift cable that I need to replace so it is now on order


You should convert it to the new style.
It's not that hard and the only special tool you need is the 1/4"-18 NPSF tap.
People here can walk you through it.

Here's a link to the procedure.
www.boatfix.com/merc/bullet/83/83_27.pdf

It's sounds like part of your drive is SEI and part original?
 

Catfishcabin

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You should convert it to the new style.
It's not that hard and the only special tool you need is the 1/4"-18 NPSF tap.
People here can walk you through it.

Here's a link to the procedure.
www.boatfix.com/merc/bullet/83/83_27.pdf

It's sounds like part of your drive is SEI and part original?

Yeah I will in due time probably this winter I want to upgrade my gimbal housing anyway to at least an alpha one so I'm just going to keep an eye out for a donor boat when both could cheap in the winter
 

Catfishcabin

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Propeller question. Currently the boat came with a 19 pitch propeller and I was wondering if this is the most efficient for my boat? Wide open 4000 RPMs around 31 miles per hour
 

Alumarine

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Recommended WOT for that motor is 3900-4300 so you're in the range.
Is it a merc 19?
 
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