1999 Stingray 190RS Restoration

[Boisebiker]

More parts and oil ordered. Outdrive pressure tested, it held at 7.5psi for at least an hour and was still there when I quit tonight. I cleaned up the replacement exhaust manifolds and drilled the holes for mounting the ignition. I have removed the original exhaust manifolds and will be testing them to see if they have cracked.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Sounds like you're well on your way......say, did you buy those lottery tickets?? Like ondarvr was getting at, pretty lucky no finding rot.

Just so you know, there really is no need to sand between layups, other than to knock a nub down. It's best to lay down another layer of glass just after the previous layer kicked, and is still slightly tacky. Gelcoat is the same. These layups are the strongest.

 

[Boisebiker]

Sounds like you're well on your way......say, did you buy those lottery tickets?? Like ondarvr was getting at, pretty lucky no finding rot.

Just so you know, there really is no need to sand between layups, other than to knock a nub down. It's best to lay down another layer of glass just after the previous layer kicked, and is still slightly tacky. Gelcoat is the same. These layups are the strongest.

No lottery tickets for me.

I was hoping to layup the glass in this fashion but now I am not sure what glass to put down. The floor is already glassed but needs some sanding and smoothing out, plus I have to glass the test hole pucks back in and fill a few screw holes and rough spots. I was planning to put a new layer of glass down after smoothing everything out, what should I use? Will just CSM do the trick or do I need a layer of fabric also? I think I can do all the resin, glass and gel work in 1 day if everything is prepped right. Any sanding needing to be done will be on the original deck to level things out for layup. And I want to put some anti-skid between coats of gel.

 

[Silverbullet555]

Google Friscoboater on you tube. He has lots of videos on fiberglass repair on boats. You can see how he did some floors. He also talks about where he gets his supplies.

I don't know if we have anyone local that sells resins, cloth, etc.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Use CSM only on the deck. No need for 1708, you're not doing anything structural. Milled walnut shells can be added to the gelcoat on the second to last layer. I would mix it in the gelcoat so it's evenly distributed in the finish. I used a 1/4" nap smooth surface roller to lay down the gel.

 

[Boisebiker]

I have seen every friscoboater video, they are the reason I bought this boat.
I went boating this weekend with my scouts and another boat, 2003 Malibu Wakesetter. I am reconsidering the seat layout. Love the rap around bench.

 

[Slager]

I'll follow along. I can send you info for the resin and glass supliers I used in my project if you haven't ordered yet.

 

[Boisebiker]

I have not ordered any resin yet. I am still dealing with engine/drive right now. Drive is back on and filled with oil. Hydraulic lift is back in and working. Exhaust manifolds and new drain elbows are installed. Engine fires up but still does not sound right. I am getting a ticking noise from the back of the engine almost like an exhaust leak. Checked compression, pretty wide range but no dead cylinders. 130-170 accross cylinders, very random. I checked cylinders by pulling 1 plug wire at a time while running. 2, 4, and 6 all resulted in a noticeable drop in rpm. 1, 3 and 5 showed almost no drop in rpm. Very curious. Oil pressure sitting at 40 at idle.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Did you run it with the lights out to make sure it's not an arcing problem in the ignition?

 

[Slager]

Pm sent. Sorry I can't be of help diagnosing the engine troubles.

 

[Boisebiker]

No Title

Good thing I didn't waste my money on a lottery ticket, the boat is not as dry as I thought. I did some more digging around in the inspection holes I drilled. On the Port side of the hull next to the engine I found water embedded in the foam(see pic 1). It seems to be on the surface and against the hull, not so much in the middle of the foam. So I drilled more inspection holes(see pic 2). Then I drilled a small hole through the stringer between the engine mount and the transom, water came pouring out(see pic 3). I let it drain for 2 hours as I ran errands and then decided to start removing foam. I think I will be cutting a larger hole in the deck so I can get to more of the foam and inspect more of the stringer. When I drilled the hole in the stringer the wood shavings came out brown and dry. After I get all the foam and water out I will test drill the stringer some more.
Good news is that on the starboard side the same inspection holes have returned dry foam.
I pulled the outdrive, checked the alignment and ran the engine some more. Still getting some strange noises from the rear of the engine. It seemed to decrease the longer I ran the engine. So I pulled the oil out and replaced the oil filter, nasty looking oil but no water. Hope to run it some more tonight with fresh oil.

 

[Boisebiker]

No Title

So I cut a bigger opening in the rear compartment, roughly 12x24. I dug all the foam out of that section and sucked the remaining water out of the hold. I tipped the nose of the boat up an extra 2 ft to make sure the hold was completely drained. Looking at the piece of flooring I removed the water was mostly in the very back of the compartment. I currently have a fan blowing air into the space to get better circulation for drying out what is left. As far as I have been able to tell the stringers and transom were sealed from the water. I will probably drill larger holes where I drill the small drain holes so I can inspect the stringer wood closer. There is a lot of fiberglass in this boat so I am still optimistic that the hull is sound.

 

[Boisebiker]

Seemed to have dodge a bullet on the engine. Ever since I got it to fire up and run I have heard a strange noise coming from the back of the engine by the starter. The noise has been inconsistent in its sound and volume. Sounds like an exhaust leak some times then like a rod nock other times. So I started digging around by the starter. A little background on the engine, it is out of a truck and still has the automotive drain pan on it. So while the marine starter bolts up the marine flywheel shield does not. I also noticed that I was missing 2 bell housing bolts. So I was looking at the flywheel shield that was there. Looks like someone took the one from the vehicle and cut it up to make it work on the boat. As the engine was running I was feeling around and trying to identify where the noise was coming from and found that if I pushed against the bell housing the noise changed. I ended up pulling the shield off and found that an ear of the shield was rubbing on the flywheel. I cut the ear off and put the shield back on. When I fired up the engine again all the noise was gone, she sounds smooth and quiet now. I pulled the missing bolts from my spare engine and put them on the boat also. I found that whomever removed the marine engine cut all of the grounds instead of disconnecting them. I have repaired 3 already and found 2 more last night. That makes 5 grounds that connect to the bell housing stud on the port side, does that sound about right?
Sorry no pics this time. Most of the time I am so wrapped up in fixing things I don't think about getting photos or videos.
On a side note, what is the best method of replacing the foam in the floor that I pulled out? Buying pour-in seems costly for such a small area. What are other methods for getting foam into a boat cavity?

 

[Slager]

Congrats on getting your engine noise taken care of. On filling the void, one of the suppliers ai sent you carries a 4 lb foam kit for $22.41, that is 2 cubic feet of foa. That seems not too pricy to me. The other alternative that isn't a lot cheaper and is a bunch more work is to buy pink or blue extruded polystyrene sheets from the big box stores.

 

[Boisebiker]

I agree that $22 is not bad at all but add $20 for shipping to me and it is not a reasonable option.

 

[Slager]

The 2 part pour foam is best because it provides impact resistance, support for the deck and will very easily fill the whole compartment, preventing water intrusion if you hit something and puncture the hull.

If fit in tightly the extruded polystyrene sheets are a fine option. You'll just need to do quite a bit of cutting to fit. If it is loose, it can make a fair amount of noise. It should also be snug to the bottom of your deck to provide a little support. One note, if the polystyrene comes into contact with uncured polyester resin it will disolve.

I would highly recommend you stay away from any 1 part canned foam. Those are not designed for potentially being in constant contact with water and will break down and become water logged.

 

[Boisebiker]

Seems like good solid advice. 2#, 3# or 4# is there a significant difference?
I am considering putting drains in the back of those compartments, any good reason not too? It will drain low and close to transom so I can store nose high and always drain.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I did 4# foam in mine. I chose this in my boat because I really wanted support due to the fact I have a wobble roller trailer. Most, if not all manufacturers use the 2# foam. 4# foam costs the same, but fills less volume, therefore more expensive in the long run.

 

[Boisebiker]

I was leaning toward the 2# foam to keep it light.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

You can't go wrong using 2#.....it's what was there originally.