"It Happened!" Transom has to be replaced! (NOW W/PICS)

[Bayou Dave]

Put a witch on the bow and tell her it is a Halloween decoration, not a boat.

 

[LX Kid]

No Title

Well the boats back at my house. Going to have to move things around cause the boat can't be where it's parked under gazebo. The gazebo/carport is going to have to be moved onto the driveway. How that's going to happen is beyond me.

 

[LX Kid]

Concerning the trailer, the last cross member is going to need replacing. It's important cause it holds up the ends of the bunks. If that breaks the boat will be dragging on the pavement.

 

[LX Kid]

No Title

What's holding me up on the transom is being able to smooth all this glassing so that I can paint it. The transom looks like it has leprosy! Today I'll try using my belt sander with 120 grit and see if I can get things smoothed out. I know I could just paint it and be done with it but I want it to look as good as I'm able. Everything with this project is just so close to being complete.

 

[LX Kid]

Now that I'm back to doing everything by myself, can someone please put it into, easy to understand (for the ignorant), words on how to smooth the joint for final painting? My mistake, a few posts ago, was to try and smooth it out by using Bondo and Glazing putty like you would doing auto body repair. I have ground all the Bondo off and am ready for the next step towards painting by roll & tip method with Polyurethane Enamel.

 

[chevymaher]

Myself I would lay csm on it till it was a little high. Make peanut butter with it. I took the csm and just sat with a scissors and cut it so it was 1/2 inch long or so. Then spread it on like bondo with a sqeegie. Then take a board sander to it with 60/80 grit till it was in the ball park. Then once it is where you want it use progressively finer paper till it is scratch free or rather they were small enough to accept paint. At least 1000 grit.

Basically do what you did with the bondo and glazing putty just use the peanut butter with long csm in it.

 

[LX Kid]

Basically do what you did with the bondo and glazing putty just use the peanut butter with long csm in it.

It dries so darn fast. Guess experience cost and I'm paying my dues! Ran an ad on Craigslist to see if I could hire someone to do this little job at my house but no takers yet.

Don't even feel like leaving the house. Cold front moved in a couple days ago and I caught a doosy of a cold. Could someone please pass me some cheese to go with my "Whine?"

 

[LX Kid]

No Title

I find myself needing a cheap outdrive stand and have decided to copy the one that "halcrimm" made back in 2012. I already built the roll around base and will continue, hopefully, tomorrow with it's construction.

 

[zool]

Like I posted before, an epoxy fairing mix is the best choice for your situation, you need it adhesion properties, its long cure time to properly get it straight, and its flexibility to try to prevent cracking.

The only thing better would be epoxy and cloth, but with the small lip you left, it would need to be wrapped around the transom ands, but that would create a whole lot of headaches fairing it.

you can buy it premixed or make it yourself.

drive stand looks great

 

[LX Kid]

I think I've pretty much decided to do as "Chevymaster" has suggested using CSM and sand it down smooth. Should I primer it after getting it the way I want it to look and fine wet sand that?

This severe cold and sinus condition I've had for the last 3 or 4 days has knocked me on my butt. Going to tackle the glassing when I'm a little better. My next really "big" problem is how I'm going to move that carport to the cement driveway. As you can see from the pic it's just not going to work out for the boat. The carport is actually for my little '90 Mazda Miata.

 

[zool]

Primer for the paint you choose above the water line only, if you plan to leave it in a slip...if trailered, then prime it all as a sealer for a uniformed finish, and a build primer if u need to make it smoother. CSM and poly alone is a ***** to sand, add a fairing filler to the top skim to make it easier. Microballoons will work.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Using chopped strand and thickened resin will be really hard to sand smooth to the tolerances you need for the transom. You?ve received good advice re: fairing compound. Why don?t you trust that advice?

 

[LX Kid]

Using chopped strand and thickened resin will be really hard to sand smooth to the tolerances you need for the transom. You’ve received good advice re: fairing compound. Why don’t you trust that advice?

Because I don't know what "fairing compound" is! First time I've heard of it. I'm a novice and will have to go to the Fiberglass Store and see what it is and how to use. I'm still "fishing" for advice and everyone has "their" favorite way of doing/using a product to a particular end.

 

[kcassells]

Check out 1 of Zools current thtreads he using it now. Good crash course. He's got like six threads going on at the same time.
Here it is..the other method will kill ya.


Glen-L WB Power Skiff Build
Started by zool, May 12th, 2015, 07:08 PM

 

[zool]

Because I don't know what "fairing compound" is! First time I've heard of it. I'm a novice and will have to go to the Fiberglass Store and see what it is and how to use. I'm still "fishing" for advice and everyone has "their" favorite way of doing/using a product to a particular end.

Sorry, didnt mean to be confusing. What youre trying to do is not unlike using a drywall compound on a seam between two sheets of sheetrock (spackle).

Its also the same process as you guys did with the Bondo. Its just the material im suggesting is suitable to where youre applying it. Just like you can buy Bondo and hardener, you can buy epoxy compound (thickened epoxy resin) and hardener....or you can buy epoxy resin and its hardener, and various types of powder to thicken it. The powder you add makes it easy to sand smooth and feather out, like spackling a wall seam.

Epoxy works well in a marine environment unlike Bondo and of course, drywall compound.

 

[kcassells]

YUp but as a "EEEEepppoxy" compound waterproof,and easier to sand. Poly to EEEEpppoooxy don't work well together but EEEEpppoooxy to poly works just fine. Ask questions, research the answers and see what will do the job for your build.
Did you look at the build I left for your review? Also available in p..pp/..poly.You can learn alot more of everything needed just by googlin. You need to do alot of your own research to understand product applications instead of just asking for someone to tell you. That's how you got stuck in this predickament.
Use being doing good now, go kick some arse. Use below water fairing compound on the whole transom.

 

[LX Kid]

Sorry, didnt mean to be confusing. What youre trying to do is not unlike using a drywall compound on a seam between two sheets of sheetrock (spackle).

Thank you! Of the three partners, I was the mechanical person and the senior "go get it" guy! Fiberglassing is a new beast for me to slay! LoL

 

[LX Kid]

Y You need to do alot of your own research to understand product applications instead of just asking for someone to tell you. That's how you got stuck in this predickament.

True, but this is the last step to painting and I didn't want to start a career in fiberglassing. Just want to finish last step so I can get on to drilling holes, installing the engine, outdrive and an eventual sea trial. The "Bondo" thing was my own screwup. The fiberglass partner, with limited experience, just wanted to paint over everything no matter how bad it looked. He also didn't know about fairing compound. (This caused a little problem for me and he gave up.) Thanks

 

[LX Kid]

Guess I'll to go over to St. Petersburg and buy some Fairing Compound at the Fiberglass Store. Still not feeling well but maybe by this weekend I'll be ok.

 

[kcassells]

Hey I hope you feel better soon. BTW I'm, like most of us learing just like you. I hate doing things twice. Too expensive and labor consuming ya know.