1994 Suzuki 9.9 Two Stroke Oil injection won't start until a few pulls

[boatlova']

I got this motor from Craigslist. The guy who sold it to me started the motor and it started on first pull. However the test was done without water. Only ran for a minute. I purchased a new fuel tank, fuel line etc and got some water in a trash can and tried to start. Although it started eventually, it took several pulls. After turning it off, it would take several pulls to start again. There is a red light below the starter cable that is lighting up when I pull. What should I be looking into? What are the possible causes? Thanks for the help.

 

[flyingscott]

The red light could be low oil may need to put more in. Are you choking the motor and using the throttle when starting it?

 

[boatlova']

The red light could be low oil may need to put more in. Are you choking the motor and using the throttle when starting it?

I filled the oil canister. The red light is not on the whole time. It is just blinking.

I do not understand what is meant by using the throttle. I thought you would leave it in the "start" position while pulling the starter cable. Is that not the correct procedure? Excuse my ignorance. I am also priming the pump and pulling the choke.

 

[ondarvr]

If he ran it for minute without water for you, he's probably done it many times, impellers don't survive long when that's how they're treated, so you'll need to change it right away.

 

[boatlova']

If he ran it for minute without water for you, he's probably done it many times, impellers don't survive long when that's how they're treated, so you'll need to change it right away.

Yes, I've already purchased an impeller. I will be replacing it this weekend. It seems pretty simple from a YouTube video that I watched. Do you think that's contributing to the starting issue? How?

 

[ondarvr]

It has nothing to do with starting, not starting probably has more to do with your technique.

​The marks on the throttle don't mean much, just because it says "start" doesn't mean that's where it's going to start the best, or at all, and as time passes the marks become further out of adjustment, almost to the point of being meaningless.

​Put the throttle in whatever position it likes best, you may or may not need the choke, just keep trying different combinations until you find a method that works the best.

 

[boatlova']

It has nothing to do with starting, not starting probably has more to do with your technique.

​The marks on the throttle don't mean much, just because it says "start" doesn't mean that's where it's going to start the best, or at all, and as time passes the marks become further out of adjustment, almost to the point of being meaningless.

​Put the throttle in whatever position it likes best, you may or may not need the choke, just keep trying different combinations until you find a method that works the best.

I'll keep trying this afternoon then. I hope I can get this to work. I don't want to spend money on a new outboard. If I can't get it to reliably start every time, I may have to rethink getting a newer one.

 

[flyingscott]

Prime the bulb and pull the choke out then turn the throttle towards fast as far as it will go. Then pull until it starts.

 

[boatlova']

So I had a little time this evening and decided to run it in the water and follow the instructions that were given on this thread. Sure enough the motor started within 3-4 pulls. But I noticed that there was no water coming out of the pee hole. I decided to change the impeller (which I had already ordered the replacement for). When I opened the lower unit and got to the impeller, I realized that this motor may not have been serviced probably in a few years. There was rust, gunk, and stuff in it. I was able to get the impeller out. And it was broken and twisted. I have not put everything back on since I didn't have grease. I need to buy some tomorrow. I am assuming just about any grade marine grease would do it? Correct me if I am off track here.

Earlier I had also removed the propeller. I will grease that up as well.

It has just occurred to me that this motor may not be in good condition at all. I can't imagine what the carburator will look like. The motor may need some overall work. What would you suggest? Or should I just consider this as a $400 learning experiment and plan for a new one? Just confused at this point. I am concerned that I may end up spending more money on an old outboard when I should have gotten a new one in the first place. What do you guys suggest?

 

[99yam40]

just because you ruined the impeller by running the motor without water, why do you think the motor is bad?

 

[boatlova']

just because you ruined the impeller by running the motor without water, why do you think the motor is bad?

I don't necessarily think it is just the impeller which was destroyed. I really think that the motor was not serviced any time in the past few years just by looking at the rust and gunk. Just thinking through this thing since I want to avoid any mishaps when I am out there with family.

 

[ondarvr]

The look of the impeller may mean nothing about the motor.

Take it out and use it, you'll soon know if it's a piece of junk.

 

[99yam40]

I would try to find a owners or service manual to read up on this light. seems there are not a lot of small Suzuki owners here to answer you question about what that red light is saying.

But then $400 is not much money for a good motor. you can spend a little to get it up to where you want it to be

water pump, thermostat, & cleaning the oil tank/system would be a good idea.
look inside the water passage when statt is out, that should tell you something about what the passages look like

seems I read some Suzuki had oil flow switch along with oil level make sure what the light is for and fix it if it is not doing what it should be doing

 

[boatlova']

I would try to find a owners or service manual to read up on this light. seems there are not a lot of small Suzuki owners here to answer you question about what that red light is saying.

But then $400 is not much money for a good motor. you can spend a little to get it up to where you want it to be

water pump, thermostat, & cleaning the oil tank/system would be a good idea.
look inside the water passage when statt is out, that should tell you something about what the passages look like

seems I read some Suzuki had oil flow switch along with oil level make sure what the light is for and fix it if it is not doing what it should be doing

Should I look for a genuine Suzuki owner's manual or one of the generic one's like Clymers etc?
Yes, I realize $400 is not much. A brand new one would be around $2K (Tohatsu). My only concern is how much more money I will need to put on it. A new motor will give me many years of peaceful use. But there is always the initial investment to think about. Tough decisions..

 

[99yam40]

I would shoot for a SUZUKI one
Talk to you local dealer to see what they say about the red light meaning is if you get no positive results here

 

[boatlova']

After changing the impeller yesterday and after bolting the lower unit back up, I wasn't able to attach the Clutch Rod Connector that connects the Clutch Rod and the Shift Rod. It seems like the connector barely touch both ends. Just wondering why this could be. Thanks for the help.

By the way, the lower unit is bolted on very snug.

 

[99yam40]

lower unit and/or controls are not in the reverse poasition would be my guess

 

[boatlova']

lower unit and/or controls are not in the reverse poasition would be my guess

Does it need to be in the reverse position when trying to connect these? I was reading somewhere online that it needs to be in the forward position. It was for a higher powered Suzuki though.

 

[99yam40]

It needs to be in the position that allows you to get to the connector
but both the motor and the controls have to be in the same position

 

[boatlova']

It needs to be in the position that allows you to get to the connector
but both the motor and the controls have to be in the same position

Excuse my ignorance, but what is meant by getting the motor to be in the same position? I see that you mentioned to get both the motor and the controls to be the same position. I noticed last evening that when I move the control to Reverse, the rods are coming close and I can connect them. But how would I get the motor and control to be in reverse position? Do I need to do something else to the lower unit to get the motor to be in reverse position?