1972 Evinrude Hydro Electric 100hp Green Shift Wire Getting Hot

[Iceburgkennedy]

Where do I begin. I bought this boat from a private party in October of last year and it ran great. I immediately had it winterized and stored it until April 2017. I then remodeled the entire guts and paint to make it updated. Next I was told by a local to put in this crc brand hypoid oil(at the time I had zero knowledge that that is completely not right and have now found I need to use strictly type c.) So I filled it with the crc brand hypoid and was ready to go out for the first time after starting it in the driveway at least 5 times and it ran and idled great. I then was ready to hit the lake. I get there and unload the boat and after 10 tries it finally started and stayed running but when I would go to throttle forward it died every single time from what I am guessing the load and carbs need cleaned ? Anyways I finally revv'd it real high in neutral and then hit the forward button and finally it started going but when I did that I totally heard a grund or clunk in thr lower unit which did not sound good. Nonetheless at that time I had zero knowledge of my boat parts ECT. So off I went across the lake for about 3 yards and it ran good so decided to slow idle down and go slow but when I idled down it would just die. So it then took me like 15 tries to get it going and I figured at that point to head back closer to the dock. Well when I got closer and idled down to slow it died again. By this point I was beyond frustrated. So then I go to try starting it and the throttle box started smoking so I jump up and disconnect battery ect. and got the shameful toe and loaded my boat and went home. The next day I opened up the throttle box and sure enough the diode inside was fried. Long story kinds short, I have done lots and lots of troubleshooting and have since narrowed it down to that when I turn the key to the on position the green wire that goes from the inside of the engine that runs down to the shift solenoid to get hot and causes the diode inside the throttle box to get hot. Note, this does NOT get hit with both green and blue wires connect ed when I have the lower unit out. It only happens once I have it in and tighted up this is all so wierd to me.This is what I have done thus far and still have this issue......1. Replaced the throttle box diode with brand new one also cleaning up the throttle box from dirt ect. 2. Installed Newused lower unit solenoids I got online that I know work 3. Made an entire new harnesss with new wires that run from the solenoids thru the old solenoid housing plate up thru the motor. Also while down there I put in brand new impellar, gasket, housing cup, plate, exhaust gasket. I also have a new oil seal kit but have not installed them not sure if I have a leak but might . Could a seal leak cause the green wire to be grounding out ? Could the fact I put the wrong gear oil.in and ran it cause the problem ? Could not having any oil in in cause this problem ? PLEASE HELP !!! I am so frustrated and have now spend 3 months trying to get this boat running and Altho summer is over I hope to be ready for next year. I am sure I left stuff out but that's the just of it

 

[Joe Reeves]

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[F_R]

Something you wrote interest me. You made new wires from the solenoids, up through the exhaust housing? I'm curious how you did that. Nevertheless, overheating wires indicate excessive current passing through them or wires are too thin. My guess is that they are shorted to ground. They terminate at the solenoids, so problem has to be from that point forward. You are going to have to examine that from there, we can't from here.

The oil has nothing to do with the electrics. Unless it was full of water.

 

[Iceburgkennedy]

I used a same size awg new red and black wire to run thru the old casing that the old wires ran thru. I spliced and used the old casing tube then wrapped it in electrical tape. The diode does NOT get hot if i have the green shift wire connected and lower unit is dropped but when the green wire is connected and lower unit is buttoned/bolted up and secured to the engine is causes the diode to get hot. The same results are happening regardless of the new wiring harness I made from the shift diodes to the top of the engine where it gets it's power source

 

[Iceburgkennedy]

The engine was winterized correctly. It went to a reputable shop locally.

 

[Joe Reeves]

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[F_R]

Agreed, based upon the information you have given us.

 

[Iceburgkennedy]

Ok so what do I do exactly to fix this issue ? I have already tried other solenoids and it does the same exact thing. Thanks for your help guys I appreciate it greatly.

 

[Joe Reeves]

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[Iceburgkennedy]

Correct both sets of solenoids are doing the same thing. The odds they are both bad are unlikely and I was guaranteed these newused ones I bought worked. Is there an easy test I can do to make sure ?
......I friend who helped me the other day said to post this >>>'The lower unit reads 12v+ i think the solenoids are grounding out when not supposed to. I read in one of these forums they aren't supposed to when filled with right oil but i think they just don't work right or thats what shorts them out ? Should the outside shell of solenoid should be 12v+ ?'..... I just really wanna get this darn thing figured out I have
put so much work into my first boat and haven't even
been able to enjoy 1 time.

 

[jbuote]

Nowhere near an expert here, but I also have Hydro-Electric on my 71' 50hp Johnson...

I checked my solenoids to see if they were any good by checking resistance of my solenoids..
​With battery disconnected, and lower unit bolted on... I checked from Green to ground, then Blue to ground..
​On mine, the resistance should be 5-6 Ohms each.

​If not in that spec, then I'd consider the solenoid (or possible wiring) bad...
I never checked voltage on them.. Just the resistance spec as stated in factory service manual..

​If out of spec, I'd probably remove the solenoid and test it directly where the green attaches to solenoid, and then casing of the solenoid.
​Do I get 5-6 ohms? If not, solenoid bad.. If in spec, then my wiring is at fault..

​At the risk of repeating others, It really does sound like you have a short to ground in your green wire, or the solenoid itself.
​You said you replaced the wiring at the solenoid. Maybe you can check the solenoid by testing from where the wire goes into the solenoid, to the casing of the solenoid.

​As for oil, I've read, seen and my factory service manual says use Type C (Premium blend) for Electric shift only!

Well, that's for my 71' 50hp... If yours is Hydro-Electric (Not electric or Selectric) then I'm pretty darn sure it's the same for yours..

Again, not an expert by any means, just sharing what I know about mine.

For what it's worth, and hope it might help a bit....

 

[Iceburgkennedy]

That is great knowledge JBUOTE thanks for joining the feed. The model number for my motor is 100293r 100hp Evinrude Starlite. I appreciate anything and every but of advice. Heck that's why I am here lol. I will look into that tomorrow...... I would like to ask or note that could it possibly be the 'selector gear switch' ? Mine has arcing and I am pretty sure it is original as it is really old possible corrosion mabey. I ordered one and it says it is set to be delivered tomorrow as well. I am going to put in the new switch as well replace all the ignition wires as they are also old and ugly looking. I will report my findings asap. Thanks alot guys

 

[jbuote]

By arcing, do you mean you can see carbon tracks where it has arced, or you can tell it's arcing by seeing the actual spark of arcing?

​I guess in any case, I think that would be a short to ground, so yeah.. Since you have a new one coming in, I guess replacing it is worth it..
​Eliminates an issue.. lol
​

 

[Joe Reeves]

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[Driftwood Jim]

FYI- I bought a NOS Selectric shift switch right here from iboats just a couple of months ago. They had a couple in stock as well as other sources had them.
Just passing it on.

 

[Iceburgkennedy]

Joe Reeves. Indeed I did buy my selector gear switch online. There are a few on eBay and at much lower cost than anywhere else I have found. The OMC part number is 279458.........Also on your Note#2.....I guess I do not know what the 'plunger' is. Is that the metal wave deal that sits on top on the solenoids just under the cover ? What is the purpose of that wave deal anyways ? ......I did not get a chance to him test the solenoids today but I will in the a.m. and update

 

[Joe Reeves]

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[Iceburgkennedy]

Ok so then is the DIODE inside the throttle box suppose to be getting warm/hot then I thought it was not suppose to be ??? .....This is what I got done today...1. Replaced all the wires inside the throttle box with brand new ones and connections with heat shrink. 2. Installed brand new gear selector switch. 3. Cut old knife connectors off the green and blue wires inside the motor head and put spades on with heat shrink. 4. Filled lower unit with Type C fluid. I then put the key in turned it to the 'on' position and sure enough in 90 seconds that diode was getting pretty warm to touch. Once I turn key to off position the diode goes back to normal cool feel. My buddy is convinced that if I were to buy brand new senoids that it will work and the diode won't overheat so I bit the bullet and ordered them today we shall see. I find it hard to believe that the originals and also these, 'used but guaranteed to work' solenoids I ordered 2 weeks ago to also be bad but I guess it is possible....... I know you guys have posted how to test solenoids but I am not understanding it my brains jammed from alot lately so forgive me. Can you explain the EASIEST and DUMMY way lol of how I can test them to see if they are bad. I own a harbor freight multimeter and know where the ohm section is but there like 5 numbers to place it on. Do i do the 20k ? I know that I need to be looking for a 5-6 ohm value but where do I place the red and black leads ect. I truly appreciate all the replies I have been getting thanks y'all................The saying... BOAT...Bust Out Another Thousand is the truest statement I have ever heard because all I have done since buying this boat is replace part after frigin part. Sumn gotta give !

 

[jbuote]

Probably use the lowest scale you have.. (200 maybe? mine is auto ranging, so not sure on yours.. lol)
Red lead on green wire, black lead on engine block ground..

​Should read 5-6 on display if that part checks out..

That's easiest I know of, but again...
​Not an expert.. lol

Hope it helps.....

 

[Iceburgkennedy]

So I did my own test engine off, key out, on these current solenoids with them in the lower unit and it bolted up. I took the red lead and put it on the green then the black lead to an engine bolt or block and I get a 3.3-3.7 on Ohm 200K setting....then on the blue wire same testing way I get a 3.1-3.4 ....... Is that the right ohm setting ? Everything else was way high numbers that wouldn't be anywhere close to the 5-6 ohm reading it is suppose to get. Am I suppose to do this test with the battery connected ?