1972 Evinrude Hydro Electric 100hp Green Shift Wire Getting Hot

F_R

Supreme Mariner
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Jul 7, 2006
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OK, I'm going to make one last comment. Well, more than one. It seems there are several issues here. The chief ones being it won't run, and the diode getting hot. Can we assume the starter is rotating the engine flywheel? If not, that is another issue. And yes indeed, you have to take one issue at a time. Start with the most potential for being the most expensive one. That would be get it running. I fully respect your inexperience and lack of knowledge of how all this stuff works. But without extensive teaching, I don't know how to help with that. I had to go to school to learn it. My advice is seek someone who does have the training and pay him for what he knows. If you don't feel it is worth that, then it is time to get rid of this motor, and get one that is operational and doesn't need fixing.

Before I leave, I'll ask---do you have a wiring diagram? Anybody who attempts to repair the motor will need one. So, I am posting one. About that blocking diode: Looking at the diagram, you will see a purple/green stripe wire leading between the shifting switch to the main terminal strip on the motor. If you know electrical circuits, you will realize that if that purple/green wire is shorted to ground, excessive current will flow through the blocking diode. Looking further, you will see that the purple/green wire connects to the shift diodes, rectifier, alternator, and clipper circuit. See what I mean about being a complex system?
 

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Jbuote and F_R thanks for that insight.....So this mourning I decided to bite the bullet and hire a 'Mobile Mechanic'..... The fella deffinalty knew his stuff. He sprayed some kinda Chemcool fluid into the carbs and the engine fired right up when he tried so we have eliminated the start problem. He said I need to have the carbs done which there are 2 on mine and it will run good as far as engine goes. The local shops have already quoted me at $150 per carb but this guy said he'll do both for $120 in 2 hours and since I already bought carb kits 2 months ago I am just going to have him do them. Altho I did sandpaper and clean all connects on the starter(tried to attach photo but it says file is to big every time I try) The mechanic then made an adapter to attach to my drill and spun the drive shaft while testing for shifting with some device he had and it did shift in all gears although reverse bogged/slowed down when it was engaged(should reverse so that?) You could also hear the solenoids moving inside the casing during this test. He said that would eliminate a short because those solenoids would not be functioning right if that were so. He said as far as the diode goes that I shouldn't worry about it getting warm UNLESS it starts smoking because it is a diode and current is passing thru it so it would getn warm. This has me super concerned or should I not be ?......This mechanic spent 1 hour on this only and only charged me for half an hour so it seems I am on the right path so far and with an honest repairman. Well that's my update which seems to be a little better but not water ready yet. Hopefully soon 😁 I will continue to update as it is being fixed and conclusions for other readers.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
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Jul 7, 2006
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I'd say you are lucky to find a person that familiar with that motor. Treat him right.
Yes, reverse gear does apply some extra load on the hydraulic pump.
 

jbuote

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Aug 17, 2016
Messages
1,001
Sounds like Progress!
Maybe keep this mechanic for now...
Diodes can get warm.. He's right in that too hot to touch, or smoking is bad
If all works, and it's not melting/smoking, then maybe it's fine..

Photos have to be under 400kb to put on here..

Use this mechanic at least to get you on the water..
Then learn the maintenance so it's second nature to you..

Glad to hear you're on the way to happy boating!!! Lol....
 
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UPDATE .....since I last had the mechanic come, iI syponed the gas that was in my boats enclosed tank and it was damn near black you couldn't see thru it at all. My mechanic looked at it today first and compared it to a fresh 50:1 ratio that he brought and it was night and day in comparison. He stated that the moisture has gotten in the tank thru the side vent hole and played havok. Given that it has rained here the last 3 days and that gas has also been sitting in there for about 45 days has alot to do with it. I had the mechanic take my carbs and kits home the other night and had them rebuilt. He said they weren't dirty really but whoever did them last did them wrong but whatever they are redone now and I know they are now importantly. Today he went to start the boat but it won't start there is no spark now where as there was spark a couple days ago on my last update. So he is thinking it is the powerpack and 9 times outta 10 the culprit. He just left to go get used one from his shop to try. I will know if it runs and works by end of the day or tomorrow when he returns and I will update. Hopefully I catch a break because it is one thing after another 😔. I need to go shred water already 😎🚤🚤🚤
 
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Jul 5, 2017
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Well it has been a couple weeks and here's the latest update now I have new issues and have now titled my boat with the name 'Boat From Hell' ...... So since I have last talked to you guys I have found that the diode is suppose to get warm so that is no longer the issue. Now the motor will not turn over and run and even my boat mechanic is stumped at the moment. It is getting spark and fuel so I don't get it. Here is a list of everything the mechanic has done since I last updated this post........1. Replaced the power pack and coil with brand new one. 2.Replaced fuel pump 3. All brand new oem spark plugs 4. Sensor Assembly 5. Rebuilt both carbs 6. Brand new throttle cable.............There was never an issue with this boat running and starting before and in fact it ran great in idle. It will try to run but then dies immediately. We tried about 30 starts until the starter got warm then stopped until we can figure sumn out. Any Suggestions ??? 😔
 
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