1987 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II - First Time Rebuild - Floor, Engine, Dash, etc.

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chevymaher

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My boat has wood like that factory. It has a very poorly and flimsily applied CSM just to hold it in place.

My suggestion would be CSM the cap. Wet the wood and CSM it on what will be the side showing leaving tabbing left. Clamp it in place then roll the edges down. Still a dripping on you mess.
 

kcassells

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Perhaps bevel the 3 sides down and take the last flat surface to the top underside. Minimal pb needed, glass will roll to beveled contour. Tough spot in any event but hey dar ya go!
 

archbuilder

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I second the bevel, I like to use a 45 degree angle and then sand down the sharp corners. I would put CSM over it. When I have something small like that I usually wet out the glass on some cardboard on the deck, then pick it up and put it in place. Its still messy but I don't thing as bad as trying to wet out the glass upside down.
 

ACon977

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I second the bevel, I like to use a 45 degree angle and then sand down the sharp corners. I would put CSM over it. When I have something small like that I usually wet out the glass on some cardboard on the deck, then pick it up and put it in place. Its still messy but I don't thing as bad as trying to wet out the glass upside down.

Ok yea, I support the bevel idea, actually already did that last night out of reflex now that I am getting the hang of glassing. But the wetting was what I was worried about. I guess that wetting it all out on a flat and then transferring would be the best idea.
 

ACon977

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My fear is that the glass will fall off the wood as its laminating, or the wood will slide down the cap... My other thought was to glue the wood to the cap with PB and a clamp, then let it cure and do the glassing in a 2nd step.
 

ACon977

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Perhaps bevel the 3 sides down and take the last flat surface to the top underside. Minimal pb needed, glass will roll to beveled contour. Tough spot in any event but hey dar ya go!

Yup, bevels are such a game changer, already cut into the wood!
 

ACon977

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My boat has wood like that factory. It has a very poorly and flimsily applied CSM just to hold it in place.

My suggestion would be CSM the cap. Wet the wood and CSM it on what will be the side showing leaving tabbing left. Clamp it in place then roll the edges down. Still a dripping on you mess.

Hmm ok, I bet that "good enough" was the factory quality standard. And Im sure it would be ok... but I would rather have something stronger than necessary (to match the rest of the boat! :laugh:)

I like the CSM and leave the tabbing until after it cures... would you coat the clamp with anything? I would be worried about it getting stuck to the board/CSM. I believe people have recommended hairspray on saran-wrap?
 

AShipShow

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Never tried this, but I think it would work... Mix up some thickened resin to the consistency of like ketchup so it will stick on a vertical surface but not so thick you cant easily work it around (only cabosil is needed, no need to add chopped fibers but it wouldn't hurt). Roll or brush this onto the wood and surrounding glass on the cap in the area you will apply the glass. Then, I would lay out a table as stated and wet out the glass on that surface (using regular resin, not thickened), let it sit and work it with a roller until its fully saturated and any binders are dissolved out, then work it with a squeegee to get out all the excess resin. Then transfer that over to the cap, shouldn't be any excess to drip in your eye and ruin your Guns'n'Roses T-shirt. Use your hands/roller/chip brush, to bed the glass into the thickened resin on the cap and your done.

On the topic of reinforcement for the tower... go big... I wouldn't hesistate to add 3 layers of 1708 over the wood overlapping each layer by 2" on each side. A wake tower pulling a 200lb guy on a tube is A LOT! of torque/force on those mounts. Say the tow point is 4' above the attachment points, it wouldn't suprise me if thats putting a few thousand ft-lbs of torque on the tower assembly mounts. I've seen a lot of pictures this summer of guys ripping tow points out of their swim decks from towing a tube.
 

kcassells

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Nah... set the wood backing with pb /bevel. Let it set up and come back later.
Glass as needed. It'll stick keep and eye on it. poly sets up pretty fast. I've done this with EEEEPPPoooXXXy bunch of times wich really needs babysitting. All works no biggy.
Says I!
 

ACon977

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Never tried this, but I think it would work... Mix up some thickened resin to the consistency of like ketchup so it will stick on a vertical surface but not so thick you cant easily work it around (only cabosil is needed, no need to add chopped fibers but it wouldn't hurt). Roll or brush this onto the wood and surrounding glass on the cap in the area you will apply the glass. Then, I would lay out a table as stated and wet out the glass on that surface (using regular resin, not thickened), let it sit and work it with a roller until its fully saturated and any binders are dissolved out, then work it with a squeegee to get out all the excess resin. Then transfer that over to the cap, shouldn't be any excess to drip in your eye and ruin your Guns'n'Roses T-shirt. Use your hands/roller/chip brush, to bed the glass into the thickened resin on the cap and your done.

On the topic of reinforcement for the tower... go big... I wouldn't hesistate to add 3 layers of 1708 over the wood overlapping each layer by 2" on each side. A wake tower pulling a 200lb guy on a tube is A LOT! of torque/force on those mounts. Say the tow point is 4' above the attachment points, it wouldn't suprise me if thats putting a few thousand ft-lbs of torque on the tower assembly mounts. I've seen a lot of pictures this summer of guys ripping tow points out of their swim decks from towing a tube.

I do like the idea of thickened resin, even if I just do the "ketchup" to be worked into the glass so that it doesnt run and drip quite as quickly.. Im thinking its a good idea.

And overkill is my necessary on this project. with the tower being that tall I would be afraid to calculate how much torque will be applied to these mounts. So yea, Im going big. Definitely want to avoid having the tower ripped out or even just cracking my gelcoat. Just need to make sure that I come up with a strategy that works for glassing upside/down/sideways on the underside of the cap.
 

ACon977

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Nah... set the wood backing with pb /bevel. Let it set up and come back later.
Glass as needed. It'll stick keep and eye on it. poly sets up pretty fast. I've done this with EEEEPPPoooXXXy bunch of times wich really needs babysitting. All works no biggy.
Says I!


I think that the PB backing and let it cure, then come back and make the fillets once its cured and do my first layer. Then layer, and layer until I feel like its bullet proof.

Babysitter on duty sounds like a smart call.

Thanks to you all!
 

chevymaher

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. would you coat the clamp with anything? I would be worried about it getting stuck to the board/CSM. I believe people have recommended hairspray on saran-wrap?
Yep a thicker plastic. Thin plastic tends to tear and is a pain to get off. I go through that with painters plastic I keep for autobody. But thicker mil stuff peels right off
 

ACon977

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Yep a thicker plastic. Thin plastic tends to tear and is a pain to get off. I go through that with painters plastic I keep for autobody. But thicker mil stuff peels right off

Ok perfect! I have some thicker plastic that I use as a paint drop cloth and used as my grinding tunnel. Did you coat it with anything? or did it peel off by itself?
 

chevymaher

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Just peels right off. Don't have to use anything. Wait till the glass isn't tacky comes right off.
 

ACon977

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Just peels right off. Don't have to use anything. Wait till the glass isn't tacky comes right off.

Perfect! Thanks, Ill try this probably thursday. Admiral and I need to bottle beer tonight, and then I have soccer at night. Ill have to bring my resin inside since its gonna be chilly here for the next week or so
 

ACon977

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Well unfortunately no Champagne was bottled. But we did do a few gallons of beer. I suppose some store bought bubbly will have to do.

but I did sand the support pieces down more, glassed them to the cap. And got the flooring delivered!

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kcassells

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Looking good. I remembered the wood under my gunnels were 1 pc front to back made of the checkered squares. I've been tossing around how to place mine back. I think a solid cut of ply. like you upside down work. I can't install until my transome
cap I cut off is inplace and squared up. The tie in will keep it solid.
 

Timr71

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Well unfortunately no Champagne was bottled. But we did do a few gallons of beer. I suppose some store bought bubbly will have to do.

but I did sand the support pieces down more, glassed them to the cap. And got the flooring delivered!

.

I decided to do the PB to adhere the wood to the cap with clamps to hold it in place.







And then will do my CSM and Cloth to finish and strengthen it. I like the thickened resin pre-wet mat idea. And then I can push that through the cloth for minimal drip.. or that's the thought.

and the Admirals skis were delamination a bit. So I used some old epoxy to try and relay down the laminate. Hopefully this clamp contraption works for getting out on the mountain this Sunday


So? Did you go skiing? the snow variety? Report please. I'm seeing that Colorado is having a pretty good early snow year. I'm still lobbying to get to Denver on a client project. If I do, hopefully we can at least grab a beer. If I can swing a day, I'll bring my skis. Stay tuned. :)
 
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