No spark, bad coil?

[Shadow91]

1986 seaswirl with either a 2.5 or 3.0 OMC (no tags or anything on engine)

bringing it out finally for the summer and went to start checking over everything and the danged engine will no start. Quick look and I don’t have any spark. Have power to the points, condenser and coil. Just no spark to the plugs.

Only had a test light on me, so tomorrow I’ll bring home my fluke meter and go over it, I’m just not sure what the values for each part should be.

Last year i did replace the condenser, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and coil. I wouldn’t think it’d go bad after just sittting the weekend, but you never know.

So of anyone has a write up for finding a no spark issue that’d be great. TIA

 

[Scott Danforth]

Its never the coil.

Most likely its corrosion on your points or tgey are not set right

If you have power at the points, something is either not set right or you have corroded contacts

The points pulse the ground to the coil. File your points and then set them. Adjust the dwell and then set the timing.

Read the stickies on breaker points if needed

 

[Shadow91]

Thank you Scott. Im just gonna start with hot shotting new points and condenser. I figure for $30 it cant hurt.
Sierra 18-5268.

I would have to assume its corrosion or a failed component as the boat ran great all of last Summer. Now i just have no spark. I removed the dist cap and it was still very clean with no visible corrosion. I have power to the base of the Dist. the points look clean and open and close as they should. Bright white spark as its tuning over from the points. Im just not getting anything at all to the plugs or wires.

I want to check all my electrical and go from there. Another issue i have as well is i think the Slave Solenoid (?) is going bad as sometimes i just get a click and sometimes it turns the engine over just fine. Ive noticed when i just get the click i can gently tap on the solenoid and it then starts engaging the starter. I assume i have two separate issues, but could be wrong.

 

[Shadow91]

Would anyone know if they make an electric conversion kit for this engine? I figure if I’m replacing things I minus well just upgrade and get rid of the points setup

 

[bruceb58]

Keep the points. For the few dollars it takes to replace points, its not worth the hassle or the reliability issues. If you have the Cobra drive, you also don't have to add modifications to keep the ESA working.

 

[Shadow91]

I unfortunately dont have the cobra drive. Got stuck with a stringer 400 drive.

Everything ive been reading says the electronic conversion is more reliable and significantly less hassle, why do you say otherwise (im just curious)

Was looking at Sierra 18-5297
https://www.amazon.com/Sierra-Inter...e=UTF8&qid=1526508670&sr=8-1&keywords=18-5297

 

[Scott Danforth]

New points are less at napa

With a stringer, make sure the limit switches are set correctly

 

[Shadow91]

What limit switches are you talking about?

 

[Rinker85]

I unfortunately dont have the cobra drive. Got stuck with a stringer 400 drive.

Everything ive been reading says the electronic conversion is more reliable and significantly less hassle, why do you say otherwise (im just curious)

Was looking at Sierra 18-5297
https://www.amazon.com/Sierra-Inter...e=UTF8&qid=1526508670&sr=8-1&keywords=18-5297

I have the 2.5 L 1984 OMC. I upgraded to electronic conversion kit last summer and have had no problems. With the new conversion kit you usually have to get a bigger coil. The kit I got was from hotspark.com 322578828675. The coil I got at Auto Zone. LU800 Duralast.

The boat has more power and better fuel economy.

 

[Shadow91]

Well not sure what I did but went to start checking over things today and the engine fired right up..

charged the battery last night and messed with a switch on the plate in the back of the engine is all I did. Not sure what the issue was.

 

[bruceb58]

The boat has more power and better fuel economy.

If your boat starts better and has better fuel economy, it means you didn't have your points adjusted properly.

 

[bruceb58]

With a stringer, make sure the limit switches are set correctly

I had forgotten that stringers also have ESA modules. Unless you buy a CDI ESA you have to do a mod to make sure the ESA still works if you convert to electronic ignition.

 

[Scott Danforth]

If your boat starts better and has better fuel economy, it means you didn't have your points adjusted properly.

very true words......

the problem with points ignition is that most of the people working on them do not understand them. 0 electronic parts, one moving mechanical part, 3 electrical parts. file, gap, dwell, time, done

 

[Rinker85]

If your boat starts better and has better fuel economy, it means you didn't have your points adjusted properly.

The boat has always started fine. I said it has more power now. Especially the hole shot. I've had the boat for over 25 years now and the points were adjusted just fine each and every spring. Just wanted to upgrade to electronic ignition and I'm glad I did.

 

[bruceb58]

The boat has always started fine. I said it has more power now. Especially the hole shot. I've had the boat for over 25 years now and the points were adjusted just fine each and every spring. Just wanted to upgrade to electronic ignition and I'm glad I did.

If you have more power, you also didn't have your points or timing adjusted correctly. Did you use a dwell meter when you set your points?

Also, unless you installed spark plugs with a bigger gap, the increase in voltage of a bigger coil did nothing.

 

[Rinker85]

I used a feeler gauge and then a dwel meter after. When I bought the kit from hot spark the instructions said I needed a coil with a minimum of 3 ohms. I think the original was 1.5

 

[kenny nunez]

Just to be sure check the “by-pass” circuit. Connect a volt meter to the + or bat side of the coil and with the key off jump the starter solenoid from the battery cable to the yellow/red wire and see if there is 12 volts when cranking. Try it several times, this could also be a starting problem. If the voltage is inconsistent then the starter solenoid is the cause.

 

[Dan01]

Check your wire connections. I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a loose connection. I also converted it to electronic ignition. AAA wwholesale marine.

 

[KLFrank]

If problem remains, check the " shift interrupter switch" When shifting into gear, this switch grounds the coil for a split second so the drive can shift into gear with no load. (Located by the shift cable adjuster) if stuck or shorted, you will get no spark from coil....just a thought