Testing overheat horn

Silvertip

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You are disconnecting and then grounding the tan wire from the buzzer harness and not the end of the wire from the sender are you not? Grounding the sender wire does nothing because you've disconnected it from the buzzer. The other end of the wire being grounded (which is what the sender does) activates the buzzer. The buzzer needs +12 volts into it.
 

pontoonsaloon

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Yes, ground one end of your test light. With key in run position touch the other to the purple wire. Does it light up?
No it does not..... I also just put the muffs on, started it up, hard my wife stand by the helm, unplugged and grounded the tan wire ....Nothing!
the original horn has 2 wires attached but it looks like there is a 3rd spot, right above where these 2 wires attach , it's just a nut, like maybe a ground wire could attach there??
Iboats has a temp. sending unit that's like like it might work. I have a threaded,blind hole just to the right on the top cylinder,maybe an inch deep or so. I would assume this would go there. Add a gauge and perhaps this would be the best option? Wondering about the round beeper horn, perhaps it's bad or could the sender attached at the motor and of the tan wire be bad?
I really do appreciate you helping me out here!
 

jakedaawg

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So, there needs to be 12v at that purple wire with key in on position. Test purple at key switch for 12v. If no test red at key switch for 12v. If yes replace switch.
 

jakedaawg

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To post a photo you may need a resizing app. It only took me 18 months to figure out how to use it and post photos but I am not computer literate. I can hook the computer up to an etec or a Yamaha but that's about it. And come here and waste time, but this site is relaxing for me.
 

pontoonsaloon

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I'm not "finding" horns!! The boat came with a horn mounted inside the console. My original engine that came with the boat,50hp force was hooked to it. The second horn ,the round black horn came wired into the new engine harness.Tan wire,purple wire,black wire
 

pontoonsaloon

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[No message]
 

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jakedaawg

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Yes, you will be using the one on the new harness. Are using a new evinrude key switch or was new motor rigged to old key switch?
 

pontoonsaloon

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Motor came wired with the key switch. Prev.owner had put some 'caulking on the backside(wired side)to protect from moisture and maybe wires coming loose.
 

pontoonsaloon

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So, there needs to be 12v at that purple wire with key in on position. Test purple at key switch for 12v. If no test red at key switch for 12v. If yes replace switch.

So....just ground my test light ,turn ign.switch on,touch the purple wire at the horn or anywhere on the purple wire?
 

jakedaawg

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Yes, test at horn. If no power test at back of switch, the purple wire. If no power at purple at back of switch check if power in the red wire at back of switch.

Certainly, you will first test something that does have power to confirm your test light and ground are good.
 

pontoonsaloon

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I've got the cover back on the boat because of threat of rain. I did crawl up in there, 91°!! Turned my power back on at the batteries, turn ignition on, power at the purple wire. The boat dealer downtown said ,pull the horn out, ground the black, put power to where the purple wire was hooked up and check to see if the horn will make any noise??, Its too hot in there to do anything right now. ????

by the way, I really do appreciate your help on this. We have 2 boat dealers in town but unless your buying something, they really don't want to help much.
 

pontoonsaloon

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Was looking for a busser on ebay that resembles mine and came across this one that's pretty much identical to the original one mounted up in my console.....wondering if I could make this one work??)
it shows the 2 lugs but there's that 3rd nut at the top. Wanted you to see this.
also, I asked the dealer downtown about getting a temperature gauge and sender and he said don't wast your money !!??
 

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jakedaawg

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That's not a warning buzzer, that's a horn. The screw is a tuneing screw. Won't work.

I know of know aftermarket warning buzzer that is readily installable. With that said I am sure some one will chime in with a link. They can then tell you what to do to make it work with a Johnson.

yes, dealer was right. Put 13v to purple and ground the black or the tan and it should buzz. If not you need a warning buzzer. I agree with not going the temp sender and guage route. Your not going to stare at a guage. You need a warning buzzer.
 

pontoonsaloon

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I'm confused!! Anyway I found this pic looking for pics of overheat horns/buzzers for 1992 Johnson outboards. Right above this horn, on my boat, is the regular horn !
I was thinking about tracing the tan wire from back I the motor area up to the harness under the console . I did this once o a 5th.wheel camper we used to have. Dealer i had bought it from rewired another switch for the slide out thinking one of the wires had a break in it somewhere . I ran this test and found the wire to be good from the switch area back to the slide out motor. I can't remember now how I did it!! If I can locate the tan wire back close to the motor, I could use this method!?
Dangit,I want this to work! I guess I'm gonna have to take a chance on the rain/storm chances and uncover the boat .
 

pontoonsaloon

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That's not a warning buzzer, that's a horn. The screw is a tuneing screw. Won't work.

I know of know aftermarket warning buzzer that is readily installable. With that said I am sure some one will chime in with a link. They can then tell you what to do to make it work with a Johnson.

yes, dealer was right. Put 13v to purple and ground the black or the tan and it should buzz. If not you need a warning buzzer. I agree with not going the temp sender and guage route. Your not going to stare at a guage. You need a warning buzzer.

I'll try this out. Thanks jakedaawg for having patience with me and hanging in there!
 

oldboat1

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If you want to trace/identify a wire, unhook the battery or batteries and use a continuity tester (and probably a long jumper) to identify individual wires.
 

jakedaawg

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If you want to trace/identify a wire, unhook the battery or batteries and use a continuity tester (and probably a long jumper) to identify individual wires.

This also requires the wires to be isolated. Unhooked at each end or certainly one end depending on circuit.
 

oldboat1

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(which reminds me -- I just burned out the bulb in my favorite tester by hitting a live circuit.)
 

pontoonsaloon

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Well I messed with it yesterday but it's so darn hot out, no shade! I kept messing with the switch and listening to the horn, I could periodically hear a click' coming from it, so my guess is, it's probably bad??
as for that 'other horn' , it was wired into the old wiring harness and not to the horn button. The horn, as I've said is mounted above and does work. Like I said, doing a google on overheat horns, the pitures I sent to you was where got the picture.I tried to get it to sound off but I couldnt. Sure wish I could find a round horn like mine ......did you ever remember where you saw horns for sale?
Anyway, it's 90 plus today and I'm getting too damn old to be out there messing with it!
should I start a new thread ,looking for overheat horns, maybe the guys on here might have a good source????
 
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