How do I remove 56 Johnson Javelin carb??

[oldboat1]

Yup. Loosen the square nut (about at your arrow) and carefully swing the bracket up out of the way. Grip the bowl while doing this, and ease it down. See what's in it (fuel floats on top of water).

 

[KathyD19]

I did another barrel test in the driveway tonight, I'm going to attach 4 video links. It was slow to start at first but then ran fine, no "lean-sneezes" like on the lake. But it did die on it's own each time except the last time. I had it in neutral with the throttle at the half way speed. I had reseated and turned out each needle once out for the high speed and 1 1/2 for the low speed. I tightened in the pack nuts with a wrench but tried to be careful not to over tighten. https://youtu.be/wvhSo0OY06E

Second video is the second start. Starts up like a dream, runs a little bit ragged then dies rather quickly. No sneezes.
https://youtu.be/Nu_Uy0uiWJ8

Third start: started up ok, sounds a little rough/shaky. I panned all around the motor with my camera in case there's anything going on that you can point out to me. It died right after I stopped filming. No lean-sneezes https://youtu.be/nNu7Y0-zUwY

Fourth and last time starting, I noticed that the low speed needle pack nut had vibrated a little loose, causing the needle to lose it's setting. I readjusted the needle and tightened the pack nut down very well. Panned all around the motor during the time it ran. I about died from the rich fumes coming off it. I turned it off myself after a few minutes. https://youtu.be/-j9HObFHkcs

Tried to restart again and it wouldn't start. Tried several times and it just wouldn't catch. I think it's flooded. It was getting dark and I was a mosquito buffet so I quit for the night. No "lean sneezes" in the barrel. Pack nut has issues with staying where it belongs, smells flooded and won't restart after 4 times running. Needles have been set as recommended. Why does it seem better in my driveway than on the lake? Is my motor bipolar??? Can't enjoy my boat too well on dry land. Thoughts, input and suggestions welcome.

 

[lindy46]

Sounds like it's idling well in the last video. How far open is the slow speed needle? If it seems too rich, with the motor running, turn the needle clockwise (leaner) 1/8 turn at a time until it lean-sneezes. Then back it out (counterclockwise) 1/8 turn. That should stop the lean sneeze and be the proper setting. Once on the lake, run at wide open and adjust the high speed needle to optimum (max speed/rpm's), then idle her down and do a final adjustment of the slow speed if needed.

 

[lindy46]

Oh, and adjust the idle a little higher using the thumb-screw on the throttle cable at the motor - seems to be idling a little low to me.

 

[KathyD19]

Yup. Loosen the square nut (about at your arrow) and carefully swing the bracket up out of the way. Grip the bowl while doing this, and ease it down. See what's in it (fuel floats on top of water).

I dropped the glass bowl and checked...it's just all fuel, no water. Must have been some kind of optical illusion.

 

[KathyD19]

Oh, and adjust the idle a little higher using the thumb-screw on the throttle cable at the motor - seems to be idling a little low to me.

Lindy my brain is getting bogged down by all of this so humor me...is the "thumb screw" on the throttle cable the set screw/collar? I swear when I do any adjustments to the needles when it's running in the barrel, I wait and can see no difference in the performance.

 

[KathyD19]

I took off the fuel filter glass bowl and there was no water in there, only fuel. The "air bubble" I thought I saw must have been an optical illusion. I tried starting it today and it wouldn't start but I'm not too concerned about that. I've started that thing over and over the past week and I'm sure that the battery could use a good charging because I know it takes a strong battery to turn over that starter. I'll do a quick charge on it tomorrow and try again. Thanks for sticking with me on this, guys!

 

[jimmbo]

It's pumping water very nicely. It probably just needs a little tweaking of idle mixture and idle speed. I used to adjust our 35s and 40s by running the engine at a fast idle in gear, then adjust the low speed needle for highest speed. That gets it very close. I then would run it slower and see if any more adjusting improved things. You can adjust the idle speed at both your engine, and then for a temporary higher speed, at the control box

 

[lindy46]

Lindy my brain is getting bogged down by all of this so humor me...is the "thumb screw" on the throttle cable the set screw/collar? I swear when I do any adjustments to the needles when it's running in the barrel, I wait and can see no difference in the performance.

It's the little quarter-sized wheel in the bottom photo where the cable attaches to the motor.

 

[KathyD19]

Omg Lindy, I had no idea that was an adjustment. :facepalm:. The motor wouldn't start last night but I think that's because the battery probably needs a full charge to start it and it's been used a lot lately with testing. So I'm charging the battery now and I'll adjust things and try again. Which way does the wheel need to be turned..towards the motor or away from it?

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[lindy46]

Omg Lindy, I had no idea that was an adjustment. :facepalm:. The motor wouldn't start last night but I think that's because the battery probably needs a full charge to start it and it's been used a lot lately with testing. So I'm charging the battery now and I'll adjust things and try again. Which way does the wheel need to be turned..towards the motor or away from it?

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Don't know offhand. Start the motor and turn the wheel. 50:50 chance. When the idle picks up, you're turning the right direction. When you turn it the right direction, it simply "shortens" the pull on cable and advances the throttle slightly. You should be able to tell even with the motor not running.

 

[oldboat1]

Lindy gives good advice, but I’ll differ a little on cable adjustment instructions. Suggest you detach the cable at the motor, and adjust the throttle manually (idle stop or whatever). You may need a helper to operate the ignition/starter while you work at the motor. When you have the motor adjustment you want, reattach the cable to match the motor setting. Adjust the thumb screw as needed to match the motor setting.

 

[KathyD19]

I just keep on learning more and more from you guys!

 

[lindy46]

Lindy gives good advice, but I’ll differ a little on cable adjustment instructions. Suggest you detach the cable at the motor, and adjust the throttle manually (idle stop or whatever). You may need a helper to operate the ignition/starter while you work at the motor. When you have the motor adjustment you want, reattach the cable to match the motor setting. Adjust the thumb screw as needed to match the motor setting.

Good advice if it has an idle stop adjustment screw. I looked at pics of her motor but didn't see it. Perhaps someone removed it in the past. Yes, if the idle stop screw is there, just turn it clockwise with the remote cable detached until you achieve a good idle, then adjust the wheel on the remote cable to match.

 

[KathyD19]

Lindy you are correct that I there doesn't appear to be an idle stop screw. So when adjusting the thumb screw wheel, I want it to be shorter right?

 

[oldboat1]

Stop screw can be replaced. In the meantime, I would move the throttle control gear to the best idle speed with the remote cable disconnected, place the throttle lever at its lowest setting, then adjust the thumbscrew and attach the cable to match the throttle gear setting. Remote lever then effectively serves as the idle stop.

 

[KathyD19]

Oldboat, forgive my ignorance but what exactly are you referring to when you say to "move the throttle control gear"? I've attached a couple pics..is it A, B, C or D? Or if not, can you point me in the right direction? I'm assuming this is to be done as the motor is running. Can it be done now, while I'm still having issues with the slow speed needle/pack nut staying in place and not able to get it running correctly or wait until I've crossed that bridge? I didn't do anything with the motor today, had other things going on but will pull it back out of the garage tomorrow and get back at it.

 

[jimmbo]

D is the fuel saver linkage

A would be the throttle control gear, probably named as it would convert the twisting of a throttle grip to a vertical direction
B would be the vertical throttle linkage shaft
C is the carb rod, not to move until all the timing advance is in and the fitting it passes thru contacts D
Once D is contacted, any further movement of the throttle linkage over rides the spring that acted to advance the timing, as the fitting pushes D to open carb fully

 

[lindy46]

Lindy you are correct that I there doesn't appear to be an idle stop screw. So when adjusting the thumb screw wheel, I want it to be shorter right?

Yes, shorter should advance the throttle slightly to bring up the idle. From your picture, I don't even see a place for an idle adjustment screw. It should be right where the remote cable attaches to the motor.

 

[lindy46]

I hate to complicate things further, but I noticed the fuel saver rod collar (D in your pic) and got to thinking - did you ever make sure the carb is properly timed to the magneto (link and synch)? The little rubber roller which rides on the cam should just begin to open the butterfly in the back of the carb when the pointer to the left of the roller hits the mark scribed on the cam. It can be adjusted by loosening the two bolts which hold the cam and moving the cam in or out to make it so. Once the roller is opening the carb butterfly at the proper time, that collar (D) has to be adjusted on the fuel saver rod. To do this, advance the throttle just until the magneto is against its' stop and can't turn any further (about 2/3 throttle). At this point the collar (D) should be just up against the stop (to the right of the collar in your picture). Any further throttle advancement is now accomplished by the fuel saver rod which further opens the carb butterfly fully. The collar has a set screw to adjust it. If the carb is not properly synched to the magneto, the motor will never run properly.