Alpha 1 Gen 2 "Slipping" out of the hole. :(

[achris]

If you're concerned about the drive gears, just open the top of the drive and take a look in... Takes 2 minutes. Just make sure you torque the screws (20lb-ft) when you're done...

Pulling an engine is no big deal... With a little preparation and the right tools (mostly just standard hand tools), you can have it done in a couple of hours. Just pull the drive off first... (5 minutes to 30 minutes, depending on experience. Check out my videos, link at the bottom of my signature)...

Chris.......

 

[pmtom1]

If you're concerned about the drive gears, just open the top of the drive and take a look in... Takes 2 minutes. Just make sure you torque the screws (20lb-ft) when you're done...

When I changed the gear oil, I DID notice some very fine "crumbs" on the magnet. What should I for from the top? Would wear or missing teeth be notable right there?

Pulling an engine is no big deal... With a little preparation and the right tools (mostly just standard hand tools), you can have it done in a couple of hours. Just pull the drive off first... (5 minutes to 30 minutes, depending on experience. Check out my videos, link at the bottom of my signature)...

Chris.......

Chris, I have watched all your videos! Very helpful. thanks for taking the time to create them.

The only thing that scares me about pulling this engine is how far it is tucked back into the swim deck. I can remove a piece of wood that goes across the top but access to the back engine mount bolts is dicey at best. This design is sleek for sure but PITA for maintenance.

 

[pmtom1]

Somehow I combined the quotes on previous post....Question was...

When I changed the gear oil, I DID notice some very fine "crumbs" on the magnet. What should I for from the top? Would wear or missing teeth be notable right there?​

 

[achris]

When you open the top, you're looking for broken teeth or melted teeth.

 

[pmtom1]

Ok... so thanks to all the help I was able to pull drive, open top and check gear (all good) then disassemble some of the sun deck pieces and get into the engine compartment. Everything disconnected, all four mount bolts loosened and ready to go in about 2 hours. Picked up a new engine lift from harbor freight today and have engine couple coming in tomorrow or the next day. Very happy with the progress / speed (knocking on wood).

So should I replace the engine mount while here? Only $30. Is there a spec to check it to? Anything else I should do while at this point?

Bellows are looking great so going to save them and impellor for winter. I'm gonna have to do some work on my skeg (or lack one) anyways.

 

[achris]

Your rear mounts are 20 years old, and at $30, it would be silly not to do them with the engine already out...

The only other thing I can suggest is to put a spare 'fan' belt in place and tied back while you have the chance. The front engine mount set up precludes you doing it at sea.

JMO

Chris.......

 

[pmtom1]

Back at it this morning... So I don't have access to the front engine mount nuts due to the fiberglass shroud thing. Removing it will be a TOTAL PITA. I pulled out one of the lower support bracket bolts and it appears to be a regular lag bolt. Am I ok removing these two lag bolts and leaving it attached to the mount?

I AM worried about the access for alignment later but figured I would grease / lube the hell out of the nuts while out to make it easier.

thanks

 

[Maclin]

When removing the engine...:

Am I ok removing these two lag bolts and leaving it attached to the mount?

Yes.

Now, when you mention the access to the front engine mount nuts I think you are referring to the rear/stern mounting bolts that connect the engine flywheel cover to the transom plate?

 

[pmtom1]

Thanks Maclin.

No, I was referring to the front (single) engine mount where you do the alignment. Because of the white fiberglass shroud, its going to be next to impossible to make any adjustments (up or down) when all back together. I was going to replace the rubber mount and all the bolts but now, I'm wondering if I just leave it all be!

Its obvious that the engine coupler is original. All the bolts back here have never been removed. How long does a coupler normally last?

 

[Maclin]

Coupler life is affected by engine alignment changing, from mounts wearing or stringers collapsing, things like that. Yearly removal of the sterndrive and alignment check prevent those events from sneaking up on you. If all that stays the same, and the original alignment was good and the splines stay greased then they can last decades.

If you have my luck you get 6 trips out of it (long story).

I have only worked on a V engine, so not familiar with the 4 cylinder, but it seems from your pics that the nut is accessible, but again that is out of my experience.

 

[achris]

No access to the front mount adjustment is very bad news. You absolutely need to be able to adjust the front mount once you get the engine back in. I had similar situation with the original in-line engine in my boat. I ended up getting the right size spanner and heating it up to give it a couple of bends in the right place so I could do the job. And your lack of access may explain the current coupler failure. If the previous owner/ workshop couldn't adjust it and it was out of adjustment, then that's why the coupler failed.

As for pulling the lag bolts and taking the front mount with the engine. That's the way I always do it.

Chris....