I did the sea ray with the cap on, but I had access to everything I needed with the cap on. The only real advantage to pulling the cap is to gain access to areas you cannot get to with it on.
Many I/O boats can be done without removing the cap. It can be a bit more challenging in the transom and bow area but that's Your personal call. If you have a Good Bunk Style trailer you can leave here on it and do a bit of additional bracing towards the bow. With the cap on there's only a slight chance of the hull being deformed. I agree with 10 gallons to start. It won't take long for you to determine how much your using to do a certain amount of work. Just remember that Less is best with resin. You only need enuf to make the glass go clear. It's easier to add more than to remove excess.![]()
I hate to admit but I did not follow this advice and did mine on a roller trailer with no additional bracing. Then again I was working on a large vintage Sea Ray and the were not shy with the amount of glass they used in the hull. I would caution anyone from not adding bracing because many glass boats, especially smaller ones, do not have very strong hulls when you remove the structure. I had a tri-hull I could push the sides and flex them in and out. I think if I hit the side of the Sea Ray with a sledge hammer it would bounce back in my face. One thing I know for sure I would never ever consider doing this if I was poping the cap.