Will -75F antifreeze be enough for my climate?

[USA_boater]

Well first off, I didn't post this on the hulltruth as I don't belong to that site but it wouldn't surprise me if someone else had the same question. Secondly, when I called the dealer, I asked for service so he wasn't a parts guy but I've already seen some wrong advice from two other dealers on my new Merc outboard so incompetence is the norm these days; I fear for those who's only option is to trust whoever they get. I saw the same in the auto industry but not nears as bad as i've seen in the marine industry so far. I expect in other states (especially near a coast or great lake), or even within my state but near a larger lake the advice might get better.

It make sense to me that the bypass will send it all out the exhaust if the stat wasn't open. This stat is 150*F and after I'd warmed the motor to open it, and then had been running 3-4 gallons of AFZ through the system, there was a marked increase in the temp gauge needle that would not happen when idling on 100% H2O. Since I've ran automobiles with 100% AFZ and saw that antifreeze doesn't cool as well as 100% water or 50/50, I figured that the increase on the temp gauge TOLD ME that the system had a good % of AFZ in it to affect the normal op temp of the motor.

Just like the PG hydrometer (or whatever I'd need) would tell the tale, or putting a cup of what is drained out of the motor would tell the tale, the increased engine temp was tangible proof to me that antifreeze was going into that motor. But you all have convinced me to go ahead and try the cup test...can I just drain out of the port-side riser? That would be the easiest place to grab a sample from. Thanks again for all the advice.

 

[MTboatguy]

:facepalm:

 

[JASinIL2006]

I really don’t understand the hesitancy to just drain the block. It doesn’t take long and it is the best way to guarantee you don’t crack your engine block.

 

[USA_boater]

As I explained, I bought the kit to save time...I also used it to run Salt Terminator through the motor so I can at least use it for that to prevent corrosion. I am going to drain some and test it. I've still got time...Next year I'll not be using the Camco at all. The hesitancy is that I did a ton of work after I bought it (circ pump, block flush, exhaust flush, t-stat, raw water impeller, oil & filter, and other misc TLC) and had the back seat out and all...I just wanted to winterize the PWC and run about and have it done...garage door broke, wife's car only has heat in defrost, ice maker broke, home heat shuts off if it gets below about 30*, I just bought a new bass boat I'm working on and have only gotten to fish it once, I got 3 kids, live a long commute from work and I just found out this week I need a root canal. Is that enough details as to why I want to be darn sure I need to back track and use precious time on this if the boat got enough AFZ in it for my climate? LOL...you guys are great though; I know you are telling me right.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I can empathize... you sound like you have a lot on your plate. Nobody wants to see a cracked block added to your list...

Good luck with the root canal. I thought it - like a colonoscopy - was one of those things people always make sound much worse than it really was. Not how I would choose to spend an hour or two, but certainly not that bad. Good luck!

 

[USA_boater]

Thanks, I'll probably drain the block and exhaust this weekend...At least it will have sat bathed in the pink stuff (anti-corrosion) for a week. I wish they didn't even sell things like the Camco if they don't work when used as advertised. But they do put a disclaimer in the manual about making sure 4.75 gallons is run though ad the stat is open and that you should test the exit fluid.

SO if I drain the fluid from the block & exhaust drains, how can I deal with the power steering or whatever cooler you guys were mentioning in one of the lines? I think it was the raw water intake line coming from the lower unit?

 

[Horigan]

I disconnect the input and output lines to the coolers and drain/blow them out and reconnect the lines for the winter. Same with the inlet to the raw water pump. Not sure how yours is plumbed. My coolers are downstream of the pump, but some are upstream.

 

[jkust]

Yeah, as boating enthusiasts here, not just boaters, we only want to see you succeed with your boat(s). You have summarized well why so many boats sit and get unused by so many people and remain boater and not boating enthusiasts.

Good luck with everything.

 

[JASinIL2006]

On my 350 Mag, I remove the hose from the PS cooler on the side between the PS cooler and the transom. It's enough to let all the water drain out.

I don't know about a 4.3, but on mine, the large U-shaped hose on the front of the engine that feeds the circulating pump must also be disconnected (at the lower end) and drained. It usually lets out about a quart of water. Not sure if that is something a 4.3 requires or not.

 

[USA_boater]

well the 4.3 has a large hose on the circ pump...I would imagine if it was disconnected it will drain the hose and the block/pump? However, I know for a fact the previous owner (my 2nd cousin) only ever opened the block drains and the exhaust drains...it was stored in a metal storage with a dirt floor so not sure if that would make a difference, but obviously in his 11 yrs of ownership, it never cracked the block. Just got a lot of corrosion...the corrosion is the main reason I wanted to store with the pink stuff.

 

[harringtondav]

well the 4.3 has a large hose on the circ pump...I would imagine if it was disconnected it will drain the hose and the block/pump?

I don't think so. I normally start on the left, port side. Remove the exhaust drain plug/hose, block plug (and have to probe out sand/crud 1/2 the time), and PS cooler hose, move front to the lower circ. pump hose, and then to the right side. The right block plug always drains, even after the circ. hose is loose. The important thing about opening the side block plugs is verifying water comes out. In an open, raw water system crud finds it's way in, and settles at these drain ports. If the water flows freely, fine. If not, probe.

 

[JASinIL2006]

That’s how I do it, too.

 

[USA_boater]

Well I learned all about probing when I did the circ pump work...I flushed the block with the hose in the holes where the circ pump normally goes and then poked the holes on the block drains...I flushed them until no more crud came out. Did the same for each exhaust riser/manifold. Doesn't mean there won't be more crud, but I cleaned out a lot of it already just 2 months ago and the boat has been run on the lake one time since then.

 

[USA_boater]

Okay guys, I did it; Is what I did sufficient?

- drained port-side exhaust manifold
- drained port-side block and picked
- drained starboard-side manifold
- drained starboard-side block and picked
- removed circ-pump hose at pump and drained as best I could
- removed intake host from raw water pump and drained as best I could
- re-installed hoses
- re-installed all 4 drain plugs

By comparing the color and slimyness of what came out, I'd say it was 100% AFZ guys. Only about 2-3 gallons prob came out and I put 5 gallons through it originally so I think the Camco fed it enough. BUT, I decided not to take a chance based on all the advice here. I also decided not to take the extra time to fill it from the hoses because it was cold and raining and I was outside. I think it will store drained just fine like it has for years before I owned it.

I'll change the gear oil too next weekend. The engine oil and filter were changed in August and only has a few hrs on it if that; so I'm going to run that oil next season and change the engine oil next fall.

Next year I will drain it and manually fill it through the hoses; do I fill the block through the t-stat hose or through the circ pump itself via the hose?