Is there an issue going from a 3 wire bilge float to 2 wire?

viper1216

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Hey guys!!
So per my other post, I confirmed my switch was toast. So need to pick up a new float switch. All the new ones I have seen are 2 wires, and the one I have is 3 wires. Is that going to be an issue, or is it something that is pretty easy to switch out? Or am I going to have to rewire everything?

Thanks!!!
Dave
 

GA_Boater

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When the switch used to work in AUTO, did the pump light on the dash come on?
 

viper1216

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Don't have a light on the dash...just a 2 position toggle switch. On turns on pump manually...and then off.
 

viper1216

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The way it is wired now (and it was this way when I bought the boat)...there is a battery kill switch installed. When the battery is switched off....the pump does not work at the switch...however it still works if the float commands it on so still power there for that. This is going to be fun I think.....
 

GA_Boater

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I thought I saw something about a light in your other thread. HINT HINT

With 3 wires, 1 is power, one is from the float switch to the pump and the 3rd is connected to something. I thought it was the dash light. Can you tell where it's connected?

The 3rd wire could be the manual pump on to bypass the float. Turn the switch on and check for voltage on the 3rd wire.
 

viper1216

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Nope, no light. Sorry, not getting the hint lol (need more coffee) Per the wiring diagram I found for the old float...one wire is 12v, one ground and the other goes to the pump which I assume gets 12v hot once the switch closes. So if I don't have that 3rd wire now with a 2 wire float (which I assume is 12v and neg...how would I power pump?
 

GA_Boater

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The way it is wired now (and it was this way when I bought the boat)...there is a battery kill switch installed. When the battery is switched off....the pump does not work at the switch...however it still works if the float commands it on so still power there for that. This is going to be fun I think.....

That's normal except I would wire so the manual switch works with the BATT switch off. Right now you can't turn on the pump if the BATT switch is off and the float switch fails.
 

viper1216

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Any recommendations or preference on float type? Do the ones that look like pinball flippers work best, or the encased kind? The one I have now is a small box with a smaller box that goes up and down inside as water level goes up and down. Ups or downs to either one?
 

viper1216

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Well, she's in and working great. No issue going from 3 wire to 2 wire....basically the ground wire is eliminated.
 

GA_Boater

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Nope, no light. Sorry, not getting the hint lol (need more coffee)

Missed this reply.

The hint was about a bifurcated thread*. There's a need more coffee word. :lol:

It's all good - You are auto bilge pumping and that's the important thing. Were you thinking of adding a 2nd manual pump for back up? May have been in another member's thread. More coffee!

* Starting a 2nd thread resulting in separate advice in two related streams.
 
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