15eh

[CNT]

I don't know what I did... but I bite the bullet. I bought a 2004 Mercury 15EH few days ago. As you know, it's a 15HP, Electric start, with tiller Handle. It was the Electric start that sold myself. While I was buying it, the store put it in a water tank and rough it up, it real swirl up the water. Both the Electric and Manual Pull works.



I just biuld the outboard stand (with casters). How does it look... oh, who cares, huh?



Now, having read through the manual Interesting findings. So, few questions:

1) There was one sentence, (quote) "IMPORTANT: Electric starting outboards must not be run or started (either manually or electrically), without having the outboard battery cables connected to a battery, as damage to the charging system could result." (unquote). So, meaning it MUST be connect to a battery at all times? Would it matter is regardless if the battery has energy or dead (as battery drained while on water or just putting a small 12v dead battery, whatever)? What would "could" the damage be, just asking.

2) The salesperson said the propeller is aluimum and orginal. How would I know if it's orginal and/or the right size. Anyways, I like to buy TWO new propeller (maybe on a Black Friday), replace it and have a spare in the boat (for if accedents while on water). The manual does tell the size. I did read some of the propeller stuff on the internet, still not that clear. One thing I think I decide is NOT to get stainless steal since I fish on some shallow waters.



3) When I took off the cowl, it smells "oily". Normal? Is the carb supposed to be wide open, with no air filter?



4) Since I don't have a boat now, so all I have is this stand with water tank (haven't tried with water tank yet). I plan to keep this in my basement for winter. So, should I winterize the outboard? The fuel filter look yellowish, so I want to replace that, along with new plugs, and what else? Lastly, the lower gear, that I am aware. Yet, the manual doesn't say what kind of gear oil to use (only says to use TC-W3 oil for gas mixture).

5) Should I replace parts first then run the motor or run the motor first, then replace the parts and then let it sleep dry? Could someone tell me what to spray inside the carb (to winterize it). Meaning while it's running, pull the gas line, let it run some more, than start spraying in the carb, is that the correct process steps?

6) Do I need to use some kind of "RV antifreeze"? Pour that in the water tank and run it? 50/50 (that would be a lot of RV AF bottles in the first place to make it 50/50)? Also, if I see a steady water flow coming out of the motor, that means the impeller is working? How do I know if it's weak or time to replace the impeller?

7) There's some white dust inside and outside of the motor (looks like spray wax). Do I leave the inside as is, no water spraying inside the motor? Just wash the outside and let it be?



8) While it's sleeping in the basement, I am to pull the manual rope lightly, to move the water impeller (so it doesn't sit set). Correct?

Sorry for this long post. Even I have fish in many years, I never worked on outboard. I just let me father worry about if it's working or not, I just take and go. Now, I need to learn (I was a mechinac, so I know the trade). Thanks for reading and replys. Just looking forward to winterize it and then now start looking for a boat that can handle 15HP.

Chuck

 

[flyingscott]

#1 The charging system needs to have a battery connected so you won't fry the regulator. You can also have sparks jumping from the battery cables if you don't have one connected. I usually remove the charging coils that way I can use it either or. The chargers on them amount to a trickle charger.
#2 replace the water pump and don't worry about pulling it over to keep it from setting.
#3 be careful running in shallow water that motor has a crappy lower unit. Easy to snap driveshafts and bend propshafts.
#4 Use fogging oil to spray into the carb for storage.
#5 Gas mix is 50-1 tcw-3 oil
#6 use 80w90 gear lube in the lower unit.
#7 No need to use anti-freeze for winterizing.

 

[CNT]

#1 - answered for #1
#2 - was it for #6 and #8? are you saying replace the (whole) water pump or just the water impeller?
#3 - was it for #2? yet, no help on propeller size/type?
#4 - answered for #5
#5 - for #5? anyways, I understand it's 50-to-1 mixture.
#6 - answered for #4
#7 - answered for #6

#? - #3?
#? - #7? I guess common sense to just wash the outside only

How do I know if my outboard has a thermostat? the manual says the engine thermostat is an optional accessory.

The manual mention spark plug is NGK BP8HS-15 (gap .060in). But the manual doesn't say what size/type water impeller (nor the propeller size/type either).

So far, it looks like I need to do THREE things: (1) spark plugs, (2) fuel filter, and (3) water impeller (or water pump). Should I buy gaskets too? I am going to do the replacements myself (so I can learn). Anything else while I would have the motor apart? One thing I may not be able to do is adjust the carb (I am Deaf), I wouldn't hear how much to tune (fine or rich, etc).

The website public-mercurymarine.sysonline.com isn't really working. I couldn't get the impeller part number or anything else (except the fuel filer part # 87946T3 ).

Where do you guy regularly order parts for your Mercury Marine? amazon.com? iboats.com?

 

[flyingscott]

#3 is normal
look up the serial # of your motor to find the correct parts? I would replace the impeller at a minimum.
You can tell if your motor has a thermostat easy enough. When you start the motor watch the tell-tale, if it comes out as a trickle and and get steadier as it warms up you have a thermostat installed. If it comes out as a heavy flow right away you probably do not have a thermostat. I do not know what prop you have I am not there to look at it. It will either have a #s on the side of it or the part # will be on the hub.

 

[CNT]

look up the serial # of your motor to find the correct parts?

​

Did that, @ that Mercury website. Didn't help.

​

I would replace the impeller at a minimum.

​

OK, just that then. I am going to attempt doing that base on YouTube. So, if you know of a good YT video for close to that motor, I would appreciate you letting me know.

​

You can tell if your motor has a thermostat easy enough. When you start the motor watch the tell-tale, if it comes out as a trickle and and get steadier as it warms up you have a thermostat installed. If it comes out as a heavy flow right away you probably do not have a thermostat.

​

Still not sure how to watch for that?

​

I do not know what prop you have I am not there to look at it. It will either have a #s on the side of it or the part # will be on the hub.

I think I will leave this prop alone for now. Maybe sometime in the winter, I'll learn some more on how to understand props.

As matter of fact, I am going to get a (digital) rpm tachometer, so that I know the motor reaches 5k-6k. That would be another thing I will be learning, as well planning. Again, I am Deaf, so I aren't going to hear a thing and smokes doesn't help enough.

 

[GA_Boater]

What is the serial number?

 

[CNT]

0T838950

according to mercury website (EzPartsWeb), I have two options and I picked the USA:

15 - 0G760300 THRU 0T979999 - USA - Cat.# 90-803024
or
15 - 0P017000 THRU 0P325499 - Belgium - Cat.# 90-803024

The EzPartsWeb navigation is slow and doesn't open diagram/part#. I have high-speed internet.

As I asked before, what is popular outboard parts online website? I mean where do you guys recommend me to order outboard parts? Like, for example, oreillyauto.com lets me enter the year, make, etc (and stores it, probably cookie) and lists parts for that year/model.

 

[flyingscott]

The first set of serial #s is your motor. This website can get you everything you need.

 

[CNT]

The first set of serial #s is your motor. This website can get you everything you need.

The EzPartsWeb navigation is slow and doesn't open diagram/part#.

<cough cough>

 

[GA_Boater]

Got a cold? it's too early for Nyquil, take some Dayquil.

 

[The Force power]

0T838950

according to mercury website (EzPartsWeb), I have two options and I picked the USA:

15 - 0G760300 THRU 0T979999 - USA - Cat.# 90-803024
or
15 - 0P017000 THRU 0P325499 - Belgium - Cat.# 90-803024

The EzPartsWeb navigation is slow and doesn't open diagram/part#. I have high-speed internet.

As I asked before, what is popular outboard parts online website? I mean where do you guys recommend me to order outboard parts? Like, for example, oreillyauto.com lets me enter the year, make, etc (and stores it, probably cookie) and lists parts for that year/model.

Try this;https://www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog


Caution
The Belgium built models have different lower-units, the can be swapped as a complete set but not(some) the internal-parts

 

[CNT]

https://www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog

I used that. Like I said, I picked the USA model. I am kinda surprised that this Mercury website couldn't be more specific with the serial number I input?

So, maybe last question for this year... Should I replace the impeller and the whole water pump kit now, or wait until close to spring? If I do it now, it would then be sitting in the basement for like half year, then start using it in next year spring? Or if I do it next year, it would be "more newer" (meaning the impeller wouldn't be set yet by just sitting for half year)?

Whatever the above decision is, do I still should drain and refill the lower gear oil now? But again, that lower gear would come off when I do the impeller kit likewise?

Once again, I just bought this outboard few weeks ago (from a papa retailer store), and plan to do plugs, fuel filter, impeller kit, (anything else should be done?) by spring. I don't know what the previous owner did to this motor, so I want to do a complete tune-up and annual maintenance.

I will be looking for a boat this winter.

 

[The Force power]

So, maybe last question for this year... Should I replace the impeller and the whole water pump kit now, or wait until close to spring? If I do it now, it would then be sitting in the basement for like half year, then start using it in next year spring? Or if I do it next year, it would be "more newer" (meaning the impeller wouldn't be set yet by just sitting for half year)?

Whatever the above decision is, do I still should drain and refill the lower gear oil now? But again, that lower gear would come off when I do the impeller kit likewise?

Once again, I just bought this outboard few weeks ago (from a papa retailer store), and plan to do plugs, fuel filter, impeller kit, (anything else should be done?) by spring. I don't know what the previous owner did to this motor, so I want to do a complete tune-up and annual maintenance.

You should always check the oil in the lower-unit for contamination such as water(oil become milky or if it did not run for a long time the water will settle at the bottom & come out first)
If the oil is gray/slush you have bigger problems(worn bearings/gears)

You don't have to drain the oil when you're changing the impeller & you can change the impeller today(coat it with some oil/WD40) and you could put that motor away for years before use.

When you have the Lower-unit off & open the water-pump's housing; check if the cup is worn/grooved so you know if you need to buy additional parts.
also check the tiny drain-holes in the lower-unit around the shift-shaft & water-pump area they tend to plug with sand etc.
have the motor completely vertical stored so any remaining water can drain. then no need to store in the basement

 

[flyingscott]

Do not use WD-40 or any kind of oil on the water pump impeller. Use dish soap to lube the impeller.

 

[CNT]

Do not use WD-40 or any kind of oil on the water pump impeller. Use dish soap to lube the impeller.

Understood.

I still haven't run my motor yet (probably would wait til spring?). Anyways, since the water intake is "underneath" the shaft, are there (water hose) muffs available for that? Also, if there's one, then the prop would have to be taken off to use a muff? If such muff exist (for that "underneath"), would it be tie-able (attachable) without holding it with hands? Lastly, if so, can or should not shift into gear (and race it) with prop off (dry run, dry fire, whatever that may be called)?

I did made the stand with water tank, just still haven't run it yet.

 

[The Force power]

Understood.

I still haven't run my motor yet (probably would wait til spring?). Anyways, since the water intake is "underneath" the shaft, are there (water hose) muffs available for that? Also, if there's one, then the prop would have to be taken off to use a muff? If such muff exist (for that "underneath"), would it be tie-able (attachable) without holding it with hands? Lastly, if so, can or should not shift into gear (and race it) with prop off (dry run, dry fire, whatever that may be called)?

I did made the stand with water tank, just still haven't run it yet.

Running it on muffs does not require prop-removal, they slide on & clamp around the water intake-ports
Running an outboard in a bucket/bin/tank is always better then muffs. in my opinion Make sure the water level in the bin is above the top cavity-plate

Do not ever run the motor WOT on Muffs prop on or off!! don't run in a bucket WOT when in gear or you'll have a mini tsunami in your Garage & the bucket is empty within 2 seconds or less

BTW soap dries out rubber, the Impeller is made out of rubber (a petroleum-based product) using a petroleum-based lubricant would make sense to me. but I'm not here to contradict other people's advice, nor trying to confuse you.

It's your motor, so you do want your comfortable with & yes I do like your Stand/set-up

 

[hardwater fisherman]

^^^ Some motors do not have the water intakes on the side of the gearcase.. They are under the anti cav plate and above the prop..

 

[The Force power]

^^^ Some motors do not have the water intakes on the side of the gearcase.. They are under the anti cav plate and above the prop..

Thank you for the clarification

 

[CNT]

Do not ever run the motor WOT on Muffs prop on or off!! don't run in a bucket WOT when in gear or you'll have a mini tsunami in your Garage & the bucket is empty within 2 seconds or less

So, the water tank is only for idling running motors? Howcome I see people shift into gears and run the water in the tank (such while on grass in backyard, or even on driveways). I am just asking how or why, not fighting with who is right/wrong. Also, what does that do with running in gears while in water tanks? To see if it works (makes sense). I want to know if this is OK before I try something I never done before. When I bought the motor from a papa retailer store, they had a like a 5x5 by 4' deep water tank with a chimmey and they run 115HP motor in gear in that tank.​

Actually, the tiller I have has build-in gears, with no side F/N/R arm. So, any ways I turn the tiller, it goes right into gears. I don't like that concept, but I would just have to be careful when turning the throttle.

BTW soap dries out rubber, the Impeller is made out of rubber (a petroleum-based product) using a petroleum-based lubricant would make sense to me. but I'm not here to contradict other people's advice, nor trying to confuse you.

Interesting concept. Now I will do little research on this concept. If using soap/water in the impeller, then run water right away, then all that soap would be washed away (or not?). I know myself wouldn't use WD40 since it's not what we think it is (WD40 is actually a bad thing for anything). But, THIS would be in another thread!
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It's your motor, so you do want your comfortable with & yes I do like your Stand/set-up

Thank you. Now, I actually have two motors on it (the 15 and a 2). Since I am looking for another boat, some comes with motor, so am I getting a garage full of outboards?

 

[hardwater fisherman]

The tub in your photos is not going to be deep enough in my opinion... The water needs to be several inches above the water pump.. So half way up the exhaust housing..