Classic 50 completed water pump and questions

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Mustang67ford

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Been wanting to do this and finally got some nice weather to do so. I got a complete OEM water pump kit. I dropped the LU while in neutral so I could check the reverse lock cam position. Rebuild went well I think. Only question is when I installed the new bottom pump part with seal and O ring, I could not get it to snap into place. I could see a very slight gap even after pushing on it a bunch. I'm assuming this is normal and that it fully seats when tightening the 3 water pump nuts up? At least I hope so. In the kit, I had 2 small o rings left over and 2 yellow rubber washers. Didnt see any place these were used. While i had the LU down, I changed the speedo hose and reverse lock ramp. Old ramp was like a black plastic, but the OEM replacement that came was aluminum. Putting the LU back up wasn't too bad. Only needed to turn the drive shaft a little a couple times to get it to go. Once it went, all else went right in. Got it back together, fired it up and had a good stream of water. Old water pump seemed to be in good shape. The fins were not broken, but they weren't flexible either. Hopefully all is good.
 
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Mustang67ford

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Also, the thin hard plastic exhaust plate that sets below the water pump, part #92815, has bumps /grooves that stick up. When I removed, the grooves were facing up. Is this the correct orientation? I was thinking maybe they should have faced down to give the thick rubber exhaust gasket a flat surface to set on.
 
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Mustang67ford

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Mustang67ford said:
Also, the thin hard plastic exhaust plate that sets below the water pump, part #92815, has bumps /grooves that stick up. When I removed, the grooves were facing up. Is this the correct orientation? I was thinking maybe they should have faced down to give the thick rubber exhaust gasket a flat surface to set on.
Click to expand...

Disregard, found it in my shop manual. Had to re-drop the LU and flip it.
 
The Force power

The Force power

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Mustang67ford said:
Only question is when I installed the new bottom pump part with seal and O ring, I could not get it to snap into place. I could see a very slight gap even after pushing on it a bunch. I'm assuming this is normal and that it fully seats when tightening the 3 water pump nuts up? At least I hope so. In the kit, I had 2 small o rings left over and 2 yellow rubber washers. Didnt see any place these were used.
Click to expand...

1-Bottom part of pump with O-ring; Clean surface of Housing with emeral-cloth needs to be a super smooth surface(no grooves)

2- Lubricate O-ring & surface with gear-oil & press fully in place make sure it goes in straight and bottoms out
(this part seals the LU from water entering) DO NOT over torque the nuts/bolts
(will crack top housing and/or your impeller won't tun by hand))

3- most kit are generic and are for multiple pumps spare O rings in normal (to a point)
the two yellow washers are the two new seals for the oil fill plug & vent-plug USE THEM!

4-Leak check the LU before adding oil; pressurize 5 to 10 psi (max) turn drive-shaft clockwise spray soap on everything
check the shift-shaft & drive-shaft also. a nice feature is a gauge installed to monitor a pressure drop
 
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Chris1956

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In addition to "Force's" comments: I have found that a slightly thicker O ring on the water pump base will not allow it to seat. You need to use the correct one.

Also, tightening the upper pump cover can crack it, if the base is not fully seated.
 
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Mustang67ford

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There was only 1 o ring in the kit. It did not fully seat when i tried to push it in. Just a slight gap. Im assuming it seated when I tightened the the 3 pump nuts as i had about the same amount of threads above the nuts as when I started. I ran it with muffs and had to redrop the LU later that day and there was water lying on top the pump and in front of it so I assume it sealed. Also, the impeller spins fine, not stuck.
 
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The Force power

The Force power

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If you ran it on muffs and you had water in and around the shifter-assy. and on top of the water-pump, I strongly suspect that you are leaking water from the pump itself.

there can only be water present there is the LU was submerged in water and not by running on muffs
 
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Mustang67ford

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may the force be with you said:
If you ran it on muffs and you had water in and around the shifter-assy. and on top of the water-pump, I strongly suspect that you are leaking water from the pump itself.

there can only be water present there is the LU was submerged in water and not by running on muffs
Click to expand...

No water by shift linkage, just in front of pump housing. How do I know if leaking water, there was a good steady stream leaving the pee hole.
 
The Force power

The Force power

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then you're probably okay, it could be leaking out from the adapter (top of pump) if not properly sealed around the pick-up tube (copper-pipe)
 
The Force power

The Force power

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Mustang67ford said:
Is there a way to check without draining? I just changed it when I put it in the garage for winter.
Click to expand...

after a prolonged time of running/mixing the oil with water it will be yellow's
after a long period of time of sitting the water will separate from the oil and collect in the bottom, however if water is/was present for a duration of time; things will start to rust!!

save yourself from disaster like a cracked LU and/or rusted gears & bearings; Drain the oil
 
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Mustang67ford

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may the force be with you said:
after a prolonged time of running/mixing the oil with water it will be yellow's
after a long period of time of sitting the water will separate from the oil and collect in the bottom, however if water is/was present for a duration of time; things will start to rust!!

save yourself from disaster like a cracked LU and/or rusted gears & bearings; Drain the oil
Click to expand...

Definitelly, that is why I drain and refill at then end of each boating season before winter. Righ now it is setting with fresh fluid in the LU.
 
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