78 Super Sport 18 re-work in progress...

Zaphod

Cadet
Joined
Sep 22, 2013
Messages
15
Hey all, long time listener, first time caller...have had a 13' tinny for something like 20 years, beat to hell when I got it, does and did get the job done, but a bit small for island camping with the GF, and gear. Also wanted to play in bigger water and the wee boat was not going to cut it in my eyes. Still, it has a place, so decided to keep it. Bought a new Yammy 9.9 when opportunity knocked last summer, so now I had a 50-year old boat, and 1-year old motor...I carry the boat on a contractor rack on the truck when we pull our little camper, and I have what was probably once a holsclaw trailer if I need it.

I also felt comfortable enough at the time to look for something larger; already knew I would be into a floor and probably a transom at my budget limit, and I gleefully stared into online ads, looking for said larger. Looked at a 16' SS, needed the floor and transom, price was very right, but the deal-killer was the no tilt on the 70 Evinrude; made it to my mid-50s with an intact back, and want to keep it that way. Search continued. Started keeping tabs on an 18' SS a few hours away, some new bits, butterscotch yellow, 85 merc, and the transom had been done. Would have preferred an OMC motor, but I get what I get. Almost couldn't pull the trigger, but the stars realigned and I gambled, buying sight unseen based on the photos in the ad. Grabbed a buddy and headed to Belleville (I'm in Ottawa) to tow 'er back.

Made it 45 minutes out of Belleville and stopped to check the bearings. Well, one grease cap had left, resulting in the bearings devouring themselves. Got really lucky as my buddy happened to have RV coverage on his CAA. Boat and trailer got flat-decked home. First expense, put on a new axle. The Merc of course has the disintegrating insulation on the wiring, there were 4 5mph-rated pedestals, LED lights, old Hummingbird FF and a Flasher, no front cover, a full top that more or less fits, and a Dole hand-raulic tilt setup. Motor comes up as a 77, no distributor, and the date on the starter is Nov '76. Had an OMC kicker at one time, just the control box left.

Boat was originally sold in Iowa, brought up here in 2000, and played with a bit, but mostly original in the interior. The back two portions of the floor had been replaced with 3/4 ply, carpet cut around the consoles and some weird wood to transition from 3/4 to the original 1/2 in the floor. Came with a trolling motor (1996 auto-pilot, no pedal), two anchors, new battery, and a kicker plate. Kicker plate was a must, as the GF didn't like trusting in old outboards (she was the driving force behind the Yammy).

The plan was to take it out once as is (meaning something on the floor in the bow to keep my foot from falling through again.) This did not materialize, but I was able to fire it on muffs with stabilized fuel and at least run it out of gas. Fast forward to March this year, and I'm stuck working at home instead of at work...started disassembly, and have gotten to the point where I'm down to floor from the fuel tank to the bow. Floor should come out intact enough for patterns. Big-ass fuel tank is to come out as soon as I can dispose of the fuel while being socially distant. Bilge pump looks janky, but works. Have a new one and will run both.

My lead question is about the floor. Decided to go 3/4" on the floor, but putting the bow back together would put the side brackets 1/4" lower than the V-brace in the center...how did those who went thicker deal with this? Add a spacer to the wood? Spacer to the brace? If it was addressed, I must have skimmed past it. Have Gluvit for when the floor is out, looking at East Systems for floor epoxy, and I'd like to find some sort of rubber floor that's easier on the knees than marine vinyl.
Hopefully this isn't too much of a dump, been reading as many SS threads as I can, some more than once; no way mine will be as pretty as most, but time, and money will tell...
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
3,412
My lead question is about the floor. Decided to go 3/4" on the floor, but putting the bow back together would put the side brackets 1/4" lower than the V-brace in the center...how did those who went thicker deal with this? Add a spacer to the wood? Spacer to the brace? If it was addressed, I must have skimmed past it. Have Gluvit for when the floor is out, looking at East Systems for floor epoxy, and I'd like to find some sort of rubber floor that's easier on the knees than marine vinyl.
Hopefully this isn't too much of a dump, been reading as many SS threads as I can, some more than once; no way mine will be as pretty as most, but time, and money will tell...

welcome!

Lotta words.. no pictures :lol:

I assume you're talking about the front raised deck. If so, alignment of the side (angles) and center supports are independent of PLY thickness; the PLY sits on-top of the side supports.
 

Zaphod

Cadet
Joined
Sep 22, 2013
Messages
15
Bit of a verbal dump to be sure...had it in my head that I needed a few posts to be able to add photos...
 

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Zaphod

Cadet
Joined
Sep 22, 2013
Messages
15
Interior as purchased...nice seats and pedestals, too bad they're not really safe over 5mph...
 

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SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
Mar 8, 2017
Messages
1,751
Good to have you on board Zaphod

Lots of question and the right place to get them answered. With that being said will try and answer what I can and I am sure the others will chime in shortly

I went with 3/4 BCX instead of the normal 1/2. With that said, I did it on a SS16. So not sure what 1/4 connection to bow section you are refering too. The extra 1/4 for me caused a slight issue with my window re-instillation, but nothing that couldn't be overcome.

For the flooring, lot of guys like nautolex marine vinyl. I went with the shark grey and the admiral agrees it was the right choice.

QQ:
You done a leak test on the hull yet with all the flooring out?

SHSU
 

Zaphod

Cadet
Joined
Sep 22, 2013
Messages
15
Leak test will be this week, after work or on the weekend. Gluvit is hovering in the wings, waiting for a bone dry hull and no rain for three days or so...
 

SGarland

Cadet
Joined
Nov 9, 2019
Messages
9
Nice boat. Getting a few posts in so I can post pics of my Islander 191 restoration.
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
3,412
Good to have you on board Zaphod

Lots of question and the right place to get them answered. With that being said will try and answer what I can and I am sure the others will chime in shortly

I went with 3/4 BCX instead of the normal 1/2. With that said, I did it on a SS16. So not sure what 1/4 connection to bow section you are refering too. The extra 1/4 for me caused a slight issue with my window re-instillation, but nothing that couldn't be overcome.

For the flooring, lot of guys like nautolex marine vinyl. I went with the shark grey and the admiral agrees it was the right choice.

QQ:
You done a leak test on the hull yet with all the flooring out?

SHSU

AH...I misunderstood the part where he's changing his main deck to 3/4".

Yeah that will raise the center "V-support". I guess you can shim the outer angle-support.

3/16" aluminum stock is readily available or rip down some hardwood shims on a table saw.

Here's an important consideration:
I have a 1/2" main deck but 3/4" bow deck in my SS so I didn't need to shim. On the bow deck, I rapped the deck with vinyl then riveted through it...even without shimming, I was at the end of the rivet grip range. so if you do go the shim route, you may need to apply vinyl after fastening (you would countersink for the rivet heads).
 

Zaphod

Cadet
Joined
Sep 22, 2013
Messages
15
So, it's like this...went to the local fastener place, nothing to sneeze at, had everything (so I thought...). Ask counter guy for 3/16" aluminum rivets, aluminum mandrel, 1" grip range max, wide flange...after hemming and hawing and digging, they can't get them, best they can do on that grip range has a steel mandrel, and I have to get 500. I bail, and figure I'll hit Fastenal, should have done that in the first place I thought...
Send in the online request, can only order 500 at a time, figure I'll see what that might cost. Whoa. Just over 1000 Hudson Bay Pesos for 500 rivets...nope. Only paid 2k for boat, motor and trailer. Plan B is stainless 1" screws...any of the Canucks here have a place I can get maybe 100, without selling a kidney?
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
3,412
So, it's like this...went to the local fastener place, nothing to sneeze at, had everything (so I thought...). Ask counter guy for 3/16" aluminum rivets, aluminum mandrel, 1" grip range max, wide flange...after hemming and hawing and digging, they can't get them, best they can do on that grip range has a steel mandrel, and I have to get 500. I bail, and figure I'll hit Fastenal, should have done that in the first place I thought...
Send in the online request, can only order 500 at a time, figure I'll see what that might cost. Whoa. Just over 1000 Hudson Bay Pesos for 500 rivets...nope. Only paid 2k for boat, motor and trailer. Plan B is stainless 1" screws...any of the Canucks here have a place I can get maybe 100, without selling a kidney?

JayCee rivet sales has sourced nearly all of my rivets. 1000-count LF aluminum mandrel rivets run around $90US.

you could try aircraft spruce as well...I recall some of your fellow Canucks using them a few years back.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,822
:welcome: to the Starmada,

Oh you've got the swoosh era SS, I don't see them pop up much here or on the FB group.

fetch
 

Zaphod

Cadet
Joined
Sep 22, 2013
Messages
15
So far, I think I did all right on the deal, the graphics on the 76-77 motors looks nicer than the early ones (to me, anyway), and I knew I was going to be doing a floor when I got it. Transom was already done, and the kicker plate was highly desired by SWMBO for the Yammy I got last year after getting, "All your motors are old, I want one that I know will work and not break"...it also has the extra braces that seemed to show up after '78. I'm guessing that this one is a very late 78 with a 77 motor that got carried over by the dealer. At the moment, I need to clean the schmoo left over in the stern from the floor/foam-ectomy I gave it to eyeball the knee brace and, if that's good, then I'm on to Gluvitizing. Aircraft Spruce doesn't carry 3/16, wide flange, aluminum mandrel rivets in the 1" grip range, so I'm asking what they do actually have...
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
Mar 8, 2017
Messages
1,751
JayCee rivet sales has sourced nearly all of my rivets. 1000-count LF aluminum mandrel rivets run around $90US.

you could try aircraft spruce as well...I recall some of your fellow Canucks using them a few years back.

+1 for JayCee

Got all the rivets I needed from them. They also sell them by 100 as well you don't need a big order if you only need a couple

SHSU
 

Zaphod

Cadet
Joined
Sep 22, 2013
Messages
15
Sent them a message moments ago...hopefully they are willing to ship up this way...
 

FIGMO

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 18, 2017
Messages
321
Hey Zaphod,

Looks like an excellent project. Well worth the effort. I'm saying that and I am still not finished mine after almost 3 years, but I am still having fun working on the boat.
 

Zaphod

Cadet
Joined
Sep 22, 2013
Messages
15
Order in with JayCee, thanks for the info...should make here for under 125 CAD.
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
Mar 8, 2017
Messages
1,751
Being nosey here.... What you order might I ask?

SHSU
 

Zaphod

Cadet
Joined
Sep 22, 2013
Messages
15
Would you believe 100 wide flange rivets? It's somewhere around 33% more dollar to dollar, shipping from Michigan to here by UPS is around double the purchase price (even inside Canada, free shipping is nowhere as common as in the US), and then at some point, because the value of the package (and, of course, Customs includes the shipping) is around 70 CAD, there will be duty added. Plus sales tax, because none was paid. If you can't get something without crossing the border, it isn't much fun. It might work out to less, but I'm not holding my breath.
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
Mar 8, 2017
Messages
1,751
Man that stinks, but I am betting you will make sure each one count.

Wide Flange 3/16 by 1 1/2 inches Aluminum?

SHSU
 
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